I have a 1967 chevy 250 that was said to have been pulled from a c10 pickup. Not quite sure, my dad bought it from a barn in southern Ohio when I was 2 years old haha. He had the head done to run unleaded gasoline so thats about it, I also think he had the head milled just enough the level it out. It is backed by a TH350 with a posi out of a 1977 trans am with 2.56 rear gears, it isn't a racer but a great cruiser. this all sits in a 1950 Chevrolet 3100.My dad is an old guy who loves bone stock things, now. He used to love hot rodded fast things and as time went on he calmed down haha.

He replaced the 216 that came in this truck with the 250 shortly after he bought the truck, the 216 had seen much better days before he bought the truck in Arizona.

I have been looking at this site for tips for months trying to plan a build which peps up my 250. As much as I want it to be a screaming monster I know that's not practical and will not last very long as a daily driver.

I want to outline my current parts list and build plan to you guys to critique it and give me insight to the pitfalls and pluses of the choices I'm making and what direction to take. I want to keep the parts about 3 grand and then take the motor to be rebuilt by a reputable shop. I want it completely gone through.It has been my dream to make this thing the way I want it and bring it back to life ever since I first rode in it when I was 3 years old, the smell sound and feel of it is just amazing. I still drive it every weekend but it just is old and tired.

Thanks for reading the wall of text and I appreciate any insight you guys give to me.

Chevy 307 flat top pistons
Bought an HEI with 65k coil
offenhauser intake dual carb intake (Wanted a 3 carb one but read it is a pain to manage and you have to have primary and secondary carbs, too much hassle to find 3 carbs to rebuild, and make 2 into secondaries then tune them all. Though it looks fantastic, I can live with 2 if the perform.)
Two Daytona 1904 universal carburetors (Thought about these because they're new and a reasonable price. Mikes Carbs 1904
New larger cam
Hedman Headers
Exhaust valves
Comp cams aluminum cam gears
Tom Lowes side covers because they're just too good lookin to not have.
Maybe new rods
New lifters of course, probably just buy a comp cams package of some sort. something similar to this: Comp Cams
ARP bolts and studs on everything that can use them.I want this indestructible tank to be extremely indestructible!

Eventually I want a 200r4 and a higher gear ratio in the rear but for right now I just want to work on the motor, then send the truck off to the body shop. I've saved up for a long time to make this happen and I want to make sure I'm doing this right. I want a cool little cruiser that sounds good and can be driven regularly without too much trouble. This old truck needs disc brakes on the front for sure though

I love inlines they just remind me of the stories my dad told me of the racer cars he saw as a kid with 292s hopped up and screaming.
I hope I didn't bore you guys!
If you guys could shine light on anything and give me some technical information on exactly what I need so everything matches up and it isn't a dog to drive it would be much appreciated. I want to purchase a 292 at some point, but this 250 is staying where its at.
Thanks in advance!

Sounds like a plan! You will want to have the head Lump Ported for sure though. The gain in that with bigger intake and exhaust valves is amazing. I'm not sure if dual single barrels will be enough for a hopped up 250. I KNOW they aren't for a 292....I prefer single 4 barrel carbs. Also for daily driving and cruising the single 4 barrel works better.Or even the new "3 barrel" carb Tom Lowe is working on. Comp cams has some Great off the shelf cams for the 250. And for cheap to! I'd get their cam set and like you mentioned their timing gears as well. In my 292 I have their 268H 219@ .050 .499 @ 110. That's a more radical cam for a 250. You'll want new pushrods. Beefier ones can be purchased from Smith Brother's. Just give them the length and tell them you want a thicker wall. This all depends on the lift you got with. The stock valve springs are only good for up to .450. ARP studs and bolts on the stock rods is a plus....and one thing...be sure to have EVERYTHING balanced....I'm talking from nose to rear. Also go with a good oil pump...Like a Melling. Not something from China.

Thanks! So if I went with a triple one barrel set up what would three good carbs be to use? It currently has a rochester BV. Would three of those work? I know a 4 barrel is more reliable but the multi carb set up has my heart lol. Are the lump ports essential and if so do I get the bolt in ones or the ones you braze? Thanks for the advice! What weight oil do Inline 6s like, I currently run 10w30.

You CAN do a 3 carb setup....but its really only useful for short drives and WOT applications unless you Really get them tuned in. If you get T Lowe's lumps or the T6G2 lump all you would have to have done is have the head bolt boss cut out and have a small hole drilled to hold the lump in. Custom head bolts and plugs for the head are in the kit. They aren't MUST but they make a Noticeable difference. 10w-30 or 30w is what they seem to like best. Really depends on your climate.

Would it be usable with a progressive linkage? I'll get the lump ports! is there any difference between the two lump sets? If you guys have any fine points or problems I may run into please tell me anything now, because if not its time for me to amass parts and horde them until the winter, like a squirrel hiding his food for winter, but mine will be cast aluminum and iron! I appreciate the Help TJ! you da man. I'm so excited to begin this project. My dad won't know what hit him when he hears it again. Do glass packs give a good growl to the 6's or do they get too droning?

Yes, I've seen progressive linkage. To be honest I haven't had experience with 3 carbs so how well they perform I can only say what I have heard from others. Your gonna want forged aluminum pistons since you mentioned Cast Aluminum parts. lol Iron rings for daily driving aren't bad, but check out the Ross Pistons Tom Lowe sells. I got my set for my 292 for $600. They were .040 with a 18cc dish vs 30 stock. They come with rings and wrist pins and will fit the stock rods. His sight is 12bolt.com. Also check out Larry aka Twisted 6's sight. www.T6Racing.org Here's some videos of different mufflers on inlines. Here's a couple on my 66. Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. True dual exhaust.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nw_9eGLhhzk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifh4eU5bUAo

This one has Porter Mufflers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSexJP4kY-g

This one has a Dynomax:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=venOqTy5njU

And this one has a glasspack.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmx6zjqH61g

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXeBTr8e1mA

I ran the 10 series muffler. I had Langdon headers Y'd into a single 2.5" exhaust through a Flowmaster 44. It was just too darn loud for me! Had to go 44. Still loud but tolerable.

It's a good compromise if you don't want to have ringing in your ears.

Thanks guys! I now have an outline on what to purchase to start this build. what is a ball park estimate for an engine rebuild getting it dipped etc?

Total into my 292 came out to around 6K. That's pretty much a turnkey engine.

If it is in your budget, Crower connecting rods are really nice! Stock rods are a known weak link and require at minimum new bolts. Also highly recommend measuring bolt stretch instead of torque for rod bolts.

I want to thank you all for the input. When I get all of my stuff together soon, bills permitting I'll give updates. I love this community. thanks for all the help and tips guys.

Please tell us more about stock rods being a known weak link. Crower connecting rods for the chevy 6 cyl are listed at $110 each. For street use, would it be worth the price tag (yikes!)? Thanks!