Can someone point me in the direction of the absolute best valve cover gasket?

I like to use the rubber felpro (dark colored) gasket. You may want to use some ultra black RTV on the head side to help make up for imperfections in the head sealing area.

X2 what Tom said. Also check your valve cover for warpage. Tom mentioned to me that the head surface can be warped as well and to check that.

Thanks, guys. Thas what I used. Managed to "cut" through it when I tightened it down. Cover is straight (now).

I was hoping for something a bit tougher and thicker.

Ordered the felpro.. again...

So the Felpro I ordered was $15 and said it was rubber. Went to pick it up last week at Autozone and it was cork. The manager of the Zone I go to is also a 250 owner so every trip there is a minimum of 30 minutes while we talk cars.

He ordered a different one and it came in on Tuesday. It was $8. Half the price of the cheap cork crap!

I picked it up Wednesday and changed it out last night. Critique my technique:

Remove valve cover, old gasket, and all RTV.

Degrease the lip on the head and get it as clean as possible (on another note: the head is finally looking clean after 2.5 years of regular oil changes, Seafoam treatments, ATV before oil changes, etc, etc... when I first pulled the cover I couldn't find the head studs under the crud! Amazing that the oil drained back into the oil pan!)

Bead of RTV around the whole head on the ridge. Roughly between 1/8" and 1/4". Smooth with finger but keep it thick.

Wait 30 minutes.

Gently put gasket on RTV and line up cover bolts with head holes. Just barely start bolts to keep gasket in place. Smooth out gasket gently.

Wait another 30 minutes.

take out bolts, gently put cover on, and start bolts again.

Wait an hour.

hand-tighten bolts. Snug up cover to gasket.

Let it sit overnight.

Tonight go back and cinch down bolts. Not too tight. Try it out.

Hopefully this will stop the leaks. The engine bay is show quality but only after I sop up the darn oil that weeps out from under the valve cover. I'm sick of putting kitty litter in my weekly grocery budget!

...oh and my side covers don't leak one tiny bit! Aren't those supposed to be worse than the valve cover!?!?

The single most important piece of advice when using a stamped steel valve cover with side bolts. I have wrenched on many a car where the valve cover bolts were cranked down so tight that they distort the cover - creating a bow in between the bolts - causing the cover to leak even more!

You're also spot on with the use of RTV and/or Formagasket . . . it has to be allowed to setup or one just squeezes it out when the bolts are snugged down.

On the heavier aluminum valve covers - held on by two central studs - there is less chance of distortion from over tightening. With a clean and straight head/cover I have had good luck with Copper Coat on both sides of the gasket. This stuff was designed for use on Head Gaskets - but I use it everywhere.

When I do encounter pitting I use Permatex with a sharp putty knife to fill the pits. Which gets me back to a smooth surface.

Well we'll see then...

I also use spreaders on the passenger's side. Figured I'd spread the load a bit. The driver's side has those divits and waves along it so it shouldn't be as tough to seal.

I used red RTV. Mainly because if it does squeeze out a bit the red is almost the same color as the paint on the engine. It's not a very hot area.


One other thing that I'm seeing: Oil seems to want to get into the side air cleaner and drip out. I have the PCV in place and it's hose is running to the bottom plate on the Holley. I have great vacuum. Still, though, it seems I'm getting some positive pressure under the valve cover. I wonder if one of my valve seals isn't leaking.