I'm now making some progress on getting my '62 261 ready for installation into my '40 sedan. I have the block ready and will put the crankshaft in this week. The bore and the crank journals are all standard size. I'm using the 261 head for now, but might switch to a 235 head later. The rings that I'm using are chrome.I have never used chrome rings before. I hope I can get them to "seat". The car has been in the Garage since April and I miss driving it. My goal is to drive it again by Thanksgiving.

Driving again by Thanksgiving didn't happen. I'm now back to work on it. I just started removing the old rings from the pistons. I found something that I've never seen before. The compression rings have expanders behind them. I've seen oil ring expanders before, but never compressions. I believe that the stuff I'm removing is the factory installed parts as the engine looks like it has never been taken apart , until now. My new goal is to drive the car to Myrtle Beach SC to the Run to the Sun next month.

Chrome rings require a specific grit finish on the hone to seat. Unless it was honed with them, it may be difficult for them to seat.

The guys at Hart's Machine would not final hone until they had the pistons and ring package in hand. I had Ross drop ship to the machine shop. Ross provided Hastings chrome molly rings.

Yeah, I talked to a couple of older mechanics before buying new hone and stones for this block. I used what was recommended. I was also told not to use as much oil as I normally would to lube the cylinders. Instead of dipping the pistons and rings in oil, before inserting them into the block, it was recommended to wipe the pistons and rings with an oily rag. I was also told to block some air flow thru the radiator so the engine would get hotter during break-in. Any other tips will be appreciated. Times like this remind me how much I miss my Dad and his vast knowledge of all things mechanical. Thanks all.

I have used chrome rings for the last couple of motors I have built, including the 261 I just put into my 57 this past August. Use regular oil, not synthetic, I did not dip my pistons, I oiled them, installed the Pistons, couple of good squirts of oil in the cylinder, install the head, build the motor. I used bradpenn 10w30 breakin oil, fired motor up to 2500 rpm for 30 minutes, various rpm between 1800 and 2500 for another 30 minutes. Kept temperature to 190 degrees max when breaking in. motor broke in just fine and runs perfect. Don't worry about using the chrome rings, you will be fine and they will break in fine also

Thanks mdonohue05. I hope to get this thing running and drive it for 100,000 miles. I'm reusing the original cam and lifters as they look fine. Anything you would do differently not breaking in new cam and lifters?

I'm putting a 62 261 in my 49 bus coupe w/s10 5spd - fenton in and out - what oil filter are you using in your's & where are you putting it?

I think you are making a mistake with the cam. You have gone to all the trouble to machine your block, all the parts, fresh bearings and gaskets, gone through the head, all new stuff except for the cam, you put it together, clean clean clean. You have gone this far, go a little further. Have the cam freshened up. Schneider cams in San Diego can re grind your cam or sell you a new one if they have a core. Stock grind or performance, your choice. They did the cam that is in the new motor. Use New lifters, or have your originals re machined to new. Not all that expensive to do, but could get real expensive If the old cam fails in the new motor. Freshen the cam up and break in the motor as above. From there, drive it with the break in oil for 100 miles or so, then fresh oil, bradpenn or equivelent. Oil filter, I took a pass this time. My block is early style with the small lines. Not a particularly efficient system. So for this motor, I did not install one. Just regular oil changes. The link, I hope, lol, is my motor just after we broke it in and let it idle a bit. Open headers. Now have a couple of hundred miles on it, no issues, runs great, so will yours.

http://youtu.be/wm2XejDSqXg

My 261 is a '62 model so it has the full-flow filter system with the big filter can. My engine has only 40,000 miles on it. It came from an activity bus , so the bus was only used for "special occasions". I stored it for several years after I got it. I had removed the sparkplugs and reinstalled them "finger tight" so I could put some lube in from time to time. I believe some kids helped me by putting a little water or something in cylinder # 6. The piston stuck in that cylinder and the rings stuck in the grooves.I disassembled it and found everything else looked like new inside. No ridge at the cylinder tops and rod and main bearings looked great. Everything is standard. I found deals in rings and rod bearings on ebay, but am reusing the main bearings.

I have looked for rings other than chrome and have been unable to find any. However, now I have found a set of Grant rings # 8131, but the seller doesn't know if they are chrome or not. Grant has changed their numbering system since these were made. Anybody have an old Grant catalog?

You are worrying too much about chrome rings. Cast Iron rings are OK but not as durable, However they do seat fast. Not sure if you can even get a decent moly ring in a 261 set. If you want moly, you may have to call the manufacture and see if they can make you up a set. I use chrome because I have them in my stash of parts. I waste nothing if I an help it. Chrome rings were sold for years and years. You will not have any trouble with them. Have the cylinders honed properly and break the motor in properly and you will get good service. I just took a 235 chevy I had in my 57 out. Built that particular motor in 85, used chrome rings, beat the daylights out of that motor, driving, cruising, racing. Never a moments problem,. Ran perfect when I took it out to replace it with the bigger motor.

I now have the plain rings so I will use them since the engine will not be used in a heavy duty vehicle now.