We have a good running '62 model 261 in our '40 sedan, however I have a problem with the starter that I have not been able to solve. Although the teeth on the flywheel and on the starter drive look like new, the starter sometimes fails to engage properly. The drive moves freely, as it should on the starter shaft. But sometimes it acts as if the starter begins to spin before the teeth can engage, causing a terrible noise. I just replaced the starter switch located on the starter. There doesn't appear to be any adjustment on the mechanical linkage between the starter pedal and the starter drive. I plan to remove the starter and check for wear in the linkage, but don't expect to find any. I first thought that maybe I wasn't being aggressive enough with the starter pedal, but that doesn't appear to be the problem. Any suggestions? Thanks

When you check the linkage be sure to check the lever on the starter that moves the gear forward, It could be bent or worn where the forks contact the gear. Check for burs on the gears in both the starter & the flywheel. Strangely engines often stop in the same place and the flywheel gets more wear in that one spot.

Odd, but I just had the flywheel off to have it resurfaced while replacing the clutch, and I couldn't see any wear on the teeth. Couldn't tell where the area is where the engine usually stops(and starts). I inspected the teeth closely because the starter issue was happening before I replaced the clutch.

I'm pretty much in the same boat (261 in a 41 sedan) and my flywheel shows really bad wear at those 3 positions where the motor usually stops because of this. I try to stomp on the starter really fast and sometimes that helps, but sometimes I have to get out and turn the motor by hand a bit.

I don't have a solution yet, since I have some other stuff to fix first, but the problem seems to be, that the starter starts spinning to early. So my thinking is, to modify the linkage in a way, that it starts spinning later (i.e. the part that hits the button).

Frank

If you heat the ring gear up with a torch, even a hand held mapp gas unit, the ring will expand and can be removed from the flywheel. Then flip it over, re heat the ring until is slips on, use a soft brass hammer and seat the gear. Now you have reasponably fresh teeth (assuming it has not bee flipped before) for the starter.

That's a good idea, but it doesn't solve the root cause, why the starter motor starts spinning before totally engaged.

Frank

Did these starters ever work right? Is this something that developed over time? Is there anything that could keep the pedal from moving all the way forward? ( carpet, padding, floor mat, misalignment,...) Also could the rod from the pedal to the fork have been bent out of alignment from being stomped on over the years? There is a bit of adjustment where the pedal screws into the rod/shaft that could effect how deep the starter engages. Just some thoughts after reading this again. The 270 in my pickup uses this system. I like it except starting on a hill with no parking brake, got that fixed. The only problem I've ever had was when the contact copper block wore out. I just turned it around to use the other side.