I pulled a '60 235 out of a '51 Chevy (still with the torque tube). I need to remove the 3 speed trans, bellhousing, clutch and flywheel and am having a little trouble.

The trans and scattershield are off and the engine is on a hoist resting on an old tire. How do I get the bellhousing, clutch and fly wheel off?

There are 4 visible bolts in the housing, but 2 or more I can feel, but not see and can't get to with the flywheel in the way. I did this disassembly before on another engine but it seemed like a bad way to do it. What's the best way to finish this disassembly?

First remove the torque tuber and swing it down.

Then you can loose the bolts on the tranny/tranny mount and pull it. If it doesn´t move you have to much load on the input shaft so you must lift the engine a bit.

Now you can reach the bolts on the pressure plate. You have to turn the flywheel to get all of them off. Now the whole clutch assembly comes out.

Than you have access to the flywheel bolts. They are secured with metall stripes that have to be bend of with a hammer and a screwdriver bevore.

If the bell housing is all empty you can reach all 4 bolts to remove it.

Make sure you have a real good support for the engine because if you remove the tranny only the front mounts hold the motor.

That`s all,

Frank

That's what I was afraid of.

Well, the engine is already out of the car and the trans has been removed. Any suggestions for removing the clutch, flywheel, and bellhousing with the engine on the ground? I don't think the engine is stuck, but turning it without it being anchored to something is going to be tough

I use a "long' 1/2" breaker bar with a 3/4" drive socket adapter that fits into the 'square' hole in the harmonc balencer to turn over a stubborn engine. If the engine is nearly frozen one could try an impact wrench to avoid rotating the entire "loose" engine. I have had to partially (nearly copmpletely) dissasemble an old engine to get it to rotate.

HWW

I'm pretty sure it rotates, I've just had trouble moving them before. I like the socket idea.

Anyone have a method for securely supporting an engine that's OUT of the car while doing this?

As long as the bell housing and the flywheel is still mounted you can take a big screwdriver or a bar, sick it between the flywheel theeth and use the bellhousing edge as a counter part (oh boy... I feel like i run out of my limited english to explain this :rolleyes: ) to turn the flywheel.

I hope you know what I mean.

We used a leakdown tester adapter(like a hollow spark plug) to blow compressed air in the cylinder once to move it. Not elegant but worked and it took only one full turn.

Frank

The front balancer should have 2 tapped holes in it (5/16 Coarse?); put 2 bolts in them an put a bar between them to hold the crank from turning

Not fancy, but it works.

What Ducky said, plus take all the spark plugs out.

If you don't have anyone to help you, maybe you could try laying the engine on its side.

I stripped it down and laid it on its side last night. Turns real easily... too easily! Now I have to use Ducky's idea. I'm not sure why the last engine I tore down was so tough to turn.

FYI, the harmonic balancer hole is kind of cone shaped, so I don't know what square hole Hoyt was referring to is.

hellfish,
stick a wooden hammer handle ( or any harder piece of wood that will fit ) between the flywheel teeth & the inside of the bellhousing. this will stop it from turning good! done it many times.
robert

Hellfish,
I am not if all post-1948 crankshaft pulleys are like the ones that I have worked with, but the attached image (at least I hope that it is attached; this is the first time that I've tried to include an image) shows the 3/4" square (approximately) hole in the pulley. a 1/2' to 3/4' adapter fits well, and I have never had it slip.
Hoyt
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