Ok, ok. I know what I've got - a bypass oiling 261. Now to figure out what to do with it...

If I can get it to run it'll be replacing the stuck non-running original 235 in my 53 chev sedan.

-The 261-
turns over.
has good compression - nothing under 120.
has valves that open and close.
is missing its alternator/generator.
is missing its coil.

Plan:
NOTE: I don't want to tear this thing down.

Drain oil.
Flush engine out with solvent to remove sludge.
Remove oil pan, further de-sludging.

Replace pan, gasket and oil.
In addition to pouring oil through from the top I'll squirt some in each cylinder to re-lube the bores.

Remove distributor to test oil pressure with drill and screwdriver end. Confirm oil getting to rockers.

[This step makes me nervous -- not sure how to avoid getting the timing wrong when I put distributor back in. Something about finding TDC on the front cylinder (#1?) and making sure the rotor is pointing in the vicinity of the contact on the cap for #1... right?]


About this time I'm thinking I'm getting ready to check for spark.

I figure for testing purposes I don't need a gen.

Put a 12v coil on (do I need a resistor?). [I'm not entirely sure how to hook all this stuff together since some of it wasn't there. Should be able to follow wiring on my 235 right? Anybody got a diagram? Even "red wire goes here, ground this to the frame" would help...]

Replace cap, rotor, points and condensor for good measure.

Hook up a battery, cross out the starter and check for spark.

If I've got spark and compression I'm probably about ready to add fuel and see if it'll fire.

Bolt a long 2x4 across the 2 bellhousing mounts to stop engine from torquing itself upside down.

Dump some gas in the carb.

Crank and pray.


And if I haven't already proven myself near to completely inexperienced I'll ask a really dumb question:

How do you guys lift these engines with a crane? Even on the rearmost of my 3 side motormount bolts the engine won't balance for crap. Am I wrong to be using the motormounts to lift from?

I'm definitely looking for tips and direction here.

Phew!
Thanks,
Tom
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Man, can you imagine all the dumb questions I'm gonna ask when it comes time to pull the 235!?

When I put motors in, I always use the thermostat mounting bolt for the front chain, and an exhaust olt, or head bolt for the back chain. I dont know about the whole 2x4 on the bell housing idea, but the rest sound good. This motor should be wired the exact same at the 235. If the coil has a internal resistor, then an additional one is not needed.

By the way, all the questions are good!! We all start somewhere, and nobody knows too much. Ask all the questions you want, thats what we are here for.

Make sure before completely unbolting the motor to lift it that you have a little tension on the lift chains so the motor doesn't unexpectantly shift and pinch you hands.

Dear Tom;

Do NOT flush your engine with solvent or anything like that. Just drop/wash the pan as mentioned and the oil pump screen.

Otherwise your okay.

Good luck.

Cabbie -- definitely makes sense to swing this thing with chains bolted front and back. Thanks. Good stuff! As for the 2x4 thing -- I didn't think it up, I got it off the hamb. Also read about people hanging engines from trees, log tripods, etc. No doubt a test stand would be ideal -- but not gonna happen at this point in my life...

Drew: that's a good one. Tension on the chains. I've been in on some SBC pulls and we didn't do that. Makes sense though, especially with the way my 53 mounts...

John: I did wonder about that. Thanks!

As far as the timing thing goes, I can pretty much follow the 235 section in the 49-54 chevy manual on tocmp, right?

Thanks all!

-Tom

I fired up my 302 that way (sitting on blocks of wood) when I tested it before buying it. Also make sure you have water in the block and head, even if you just fire it up for a minute, otherwise you will probably crack the head.

261's time exactly the same way as 235's. You can even swap distributors.

An engine leveler is a good way to keep an engine level, or put some tilt in, as you raise or lower an inliner with a transmission attached to the bellhousing. It's so easy it's almost sinful.

Speedway sells a very good one - far better than what I saw at a local discount tool shop.