I read the section covering engine removal in the service manual over at tocmp.

For the record, I've got a 3spd manual transmission on a seized 235 in my '53 2dr 150 sedan. Plan is to replace the seized 235 with a good 261 and stick with the stock rear end and 3spd (until I can collect the parts for a t5 install).

A couple of questions:

Basically, the manual says I've got to pull the engine and tranny as a unit.

However, I was thinking to leave the tranny in, pull the engine and bell housing out, swap the 235 bell housing, clutch etc. over to the 261, and then swing it in and bolt it to the tranny.

In my head this seems like a good idea.

However, is it easiest (best, etc.) to remove/install engine and tranny as a unit? Is there some reason why leaving the tranny in the car won't work?

Next question:

Do I really have to dissassemble the valvetrain to remove/install the engine? (see step 22)

Thanks in advance for the answers...

Tom

i'm for removing the engine by itself. you can check out the trans and remove it too to replace seals and such if you want. if this truck has sat for a long time the ujoints might need attention too. i have brought 2 trucks back from the dead and it's a lot of fun going thru everything and finding out what needs to be replaced, what needs to be greased, and what needs to be cleaned. good luck.

Dear Tom;

Most do it that way, leaving the transmission in place as; The driveline/linkage/crossmember hold it there after etc.

You don't need to pull the valvetrain, but many use the head bolts for the sling & having it out of the way is okay too. Just put the rocker assembly & pulhrods in the valve cover and set it out of your way.

Good luck.

Having done this myself on 2 different '53's I can say you will be a happier person if you remove and install the engine and trans together.

Having pulled and installed an engine several times in a 1953 210, I would also advise pulling the engine and transmission as a unit. There is nothing to support the forward end of the transmission, and it will be a pain to get the transmission input shaft to slide back into the clutch. I connected a chain sling with two convenient head bolts. This operation was not difficult, as I recall from 45 years ago. It is even easier if one uses a good engine leveler, such as sold by Speedway motors.

Also, consider when just pulling the motor that you may need to remove more of the engine parts
(fan,pulley,water pump and radiator) to gain enough clearance to move the motor forward to clear the trans.With the trans attached you can get a much steeper lift angle to clear the engine bay.Hopefully you have removed the hood too.As JHM says remove the valve train if lifting with the head bolts. It can easily damage the rockers,etc. if the lifting chain or engine leveler twists.

Good stuff guys. Engine and tranny together then (they sure are easy to mate when they're off the vehicle).

Guess I'm just chicken about the pulling apart the valvetrain -- never had one apart and don't want to mix it up/have it fly to bits on me. I've seen my cousin do it on an sbc -- punch holes in a shoebox, number them front to rear and set the pushrods in order, etc. I've got to start by pulling the 235 so I guess the good news is I can gain experience on the motor that matters less...

I guess the valves and springs themselves don't have to come off -- just the rods and rockers -- so I don't have to worry about anything being spring loaded, right?

after reading everyones responces i'm changin my vote!! didn't mean to steer you wrong, i forgot my wife says i do everything the hard way.

Yes Tom,just remove the rockers and rocker
shaft(s). Turn the adjusters out to loosen the rockers then unbolt the towers. Set aside as a unit. You probably don't even have to remove the pushrods unless you see interference.

Speaking from experience , yes pull the engine & trans together. And you don't have to turn the adjusters on your rocker arms. Just remove the 4 bolts & 2 studs holding the rocker shafts to the head & lift the shaft assemblies off the head.At reassembly time put the pushrods in the holes & set the rear shaft in place then just barely start a couple of the bolts before putting the middle connector & front half in place.Your valve clearances should be close to what they were before dissassembly , that is if you were reassemblying the same engine.Are you going to change the 261 to the early style valve cover ? Just wondering.

Hadn't planned on it. Car is going to be a mild custom so looking original (at this point at least) isn't one of my concerns. I'd like to go finned aluminum, actually, but that's money that could go into tires (or interior, or paint, or...)

Thanks for all the input -- this doesn't sound that daunting!