Doing an engine swap:
There don't seem to be any visible pick points on the block to hoist my 292s in and out of my '68 Chevy Pickup. No mention in Chevy Chassis Overhaul Manual -- except for an illustration of a special tool set that is a leveling bar with hooks on chains and 2 long eye-bolts.
Does this mean you have to remove one head bolt at each end, replace them with the eyebolts, and hoist the block out? Not a problem for removing the old engine, but what happens to head torque values [95ft/lbs] when installing the rebuilt engine? Do you have to retorque the whole head once it's back on the motor mounts, or just the two headbolts at each end that were removed?
Brian #4101



[This message has been edited by '68OrangeSunshine (edited 06-13-2003).]

If you are leaving the intake manifold on the engine, then use one of the 3/8" bolt holes at the pass. front of the head for one end of a chain and wrap the other end around the rear (5-6) intake log. If you've taken the manifolds off, then you have the rear intake bolt holes to use. It'll balance pretty good using these locations. Don't bother taking any head bolts out.

------------------
David
newbie #4153

Thanks David, we've got it rigged by the front manifold bolt hole and ex-A.I.R. bracket mount and by the rear manifold holes in back. All set to lift after work tomorrow!
Back in the day -- on the production line -- they must've swung in the engine untorqued and then set head torque and adjusted valves once it was in place.

------------------
'71 GMC Jimmy 350, sm465, np205,3.73 posi.
'68 C/10 Stepside 292 (.030 over) Offy I,Holley 390,Clif ex, sm465, 3.73 posi.
'67 K/10 454 project.
'72 K/5 rolling frame project.