The washers that hold the intake and exhaust to the head on my 250 have been lost while I had it apart. Can someone tell me were I can get a replacment set? The guy at napa just stares at me and there are none in the bone yard. Also, is there a special procedure for mounting these parts up? Torque settings or pattern? And last but not, what about the studs on the front and rear of the manifold. They are not threaded on the outside but seem to be acting as a dowel of sorts. Should I pull them and use a regular stud? I really want to do this right the first time with no leaks. Thanks for any help.

Do you mean the Clamps Or just the washers themself? If it was just the Washers Then you can just a different washer. If your meaning the Clamps. I maybe able to help you with a set.When tighting them down It is good to start in the center and work your way out in a just like you would a head .in a circle hope this helps.
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Also,I would replace the guide pins on each end
of the head with treaded studs as you suggested.

Yes the clamps is what I meen. what type of washer goes over them? Flat or a locking? Also I just have studs on the end ports, would it be better to use them across the whole head rather then bolts?

I just checked a '68 250 head and it's bolted this way starting from middle of head out:
2 Bolts 1 3/8"
2 Threaded Studs 1 1/4"
2 Bolts 2 1/2"
2 Guide Pins
There were no washers used. The differences in stud and bolt lengths is to provide manifold
and wrench clearences when bolting them up to the head. You probably knew that any way. You can use studs if you like. It makes it easier to
keep the gaskets in place and to support the manifolds in the bolt on process, just use the correct lengths.

i replaced both of the end non-threaded studs with threaded studs and installed studs in all the other bolt holes as well. it makes intallation a lot easier...at least for me. those non-threaded studs came out with just a few turns of the vise-grip so its no big deal.

The two Threaded Studs at 1 1/4" would actually be longer.I forgot to include the threaded length
in the head but I don't remember exactly what it is!

ONE thing To be sure to remember Is Not to over tighten them Bcause You can crack out the end and Hit WATER. This area at the end of them studs is NOt Very thick. Use some type of sealer On the Threads Just for safety.(if you happen to over tighten then it will keep you from haveing a water Leak) Also On some Heads The Front one Is Open to water right from the start. And the treads Must be sealed. Hope this helps.}[oooooo]

Sounds like some pretty good tips so thanks alot. I have never run this motor before, so everything on it a new thing. People around here think I am nuts for taking the 350 out of my truck to put a 250 in, but I am determined to try anything for better gas mileage. Besides, I have owned a slant six before and it was pretty cool, so having another 6 apeals to me.

What a great question. I am getting ready to install Clifford headers and intake on my 250 for use in a pick up. all of the info you received seems very helpful.
Thanks
D D

Tom Langdon at Stovebolt has some very nice aluminum exhaust clamps. They work well and are easy to modify if clearance is an issue.

The Last I spoke with Tom Langdon about them clamps. Because I was thinking of making some out of steel. He said that he may no longer carry or make them. (reason being do to that they were bending over time (do to??) i think he said bending??)But Double check this and ask him If he still has them Or not.If he is NOT going to have these anymore Please let me know Or I'll just give him a call again. And I'll go on with the plan of Making them from steel. I have Many stockers to go from. Hope this will Help?
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Well, I would prefer steel if the aluminum are bending. I still need some for now so I may have to give him a call.