"solved" Water pump housing "250"

Posted by: Greybeard

"solved" Water pump housing "250" - 03/13/09 10:19 AM

I've just finished a new chassis for my '37 Chev, and was worried about the 250 fitting the engine compartment, particularly after measuring the 250 in my Elco. Through the use of different parts, and modification to some parts, I found how to gain room, or in other words, how to shorten the overall lenght of a 250 to make it fit where a 216 was. The lenght of the one going into my '37 will end up approx. 1 5/8" shorter than the one in my Elco.

In my next post I'll try to share what I'm going to do.

Posted by: Greybeard

Re: "solved" Water pump housing "250" - 03/14/09 04:58 PM

After a hard look at all the pieces, I found an answer that will give me another 7/16" total room with the belt driven fan, and 5/8" if I use a pusher electric. Although it may seem like "not much", it's a bunch when it means the difference of either major firewall work, or moving the radiator.

I have a "dog dish" two grove WP pulley which overall is shorter by 3/8" than the single scheave unit in my Elco, which uses the front scheave on the balancer, and I use the back groove to drive the alt on the '37. The groves measure 5/8" accross. The back of the WP drive flange measures 21/32" to the seal. If I press the drive flange back 5/8", I can remove the rear belt scheave from the pulley and drive the alt off the front groove. I'm concerned that 1/32" isn't enough clearance , so to make sure I'll press the drive flange off and machine it, facing the front and taking some off the back as well. I'll need to do two pumps so I've a spare. The fan I have will need to be spaced out 3/16" to clear the balancer and t-stat housing when everything is done..

If all the numbers hold up, by putting the engine closer to the firewall than the stock 216 was, I end up with 3/8" more room at my aluminum radiator than the 216 had, using a belt driven fan, and have room to change the belt. YES!!!!!!