Hi all, recently I picked up a 292 that was rebuilt quite a few years ago.. Anyhow the price was right, very right even if I had to freshen it up ect.. Downfall was I didnt know what cam it had so from advice I found here I did find someone that had a cam Dr. Anyhow I am backing it with a 700R and needed to know what coverter to use, from my limited exp it looks like I should be able to stay stock, possibly jump to 2k but I wanted some more exp advice.

292 with 194 head, not sure if any block work was done.
1.7 crane rockers and here is the cam read out, it states 1.75 rocker I assume because that was stock.



Please chime in with your opinions on what you believe this guy was doing with this 292 and what converter would be best. Thanks guys, these inlines are getting my attention more and more. Picked up a couple of books based on suggestions, dont think I will do anything but BB or inlines, the sb's are just way to common. Anyhow thanks for looking, hope the pic turns out readable.

Skez

What vehicle was this going in?
Weight,rear gears,trans,etc,etc.

For now I'd say,,,
1200-1500 RPM tops. IMO



MBHD

Oh sorrs, I am building a 1960 SWB apache for the wife, atm it has 4.11 rear.. The build was going different when it was for me. I picked up this 6 and figured I would back it with a 700.. With the 4.11 and the low gearing of the 700r it should really pick up nice, although I figured I would probably have to change out the gear ratio for more of a cruiser for the wife. Orig it was going BBC/powerglide/4.11 but I build a chevelle over the last few years so I figured best to score some points and build something for her before I dig myself a grave or even worse and she takes them all:)

Anyhow it came pretty built up with offy 4b intake, dual exh headers, crane rockers, it had a 600 holley on it?? Seemed very large to me, figured based on my reading to drop to atleast a 500 or a 390 if I could find one.. For what I paid I couldnt have purchased the rockers and it had never been fired.. I would love to be able to afford 3 singles but if I went that way I would look more twords injected and of course the budget says I would tbi my chevelle first

Thanks for advice, from what I have read it seems odd such a mild cam if the guy put the 194 head on it? I figured with the low torq they have they were going for high compression low torq for like 1/8th mile or something.

Skez

Ok,
well if you are running a lock-up converter, you can always run a higher stall & still get decent gas mileage.

But with the canshaft you have, you do not really need a loose converter.
Even as high as 2000 stall will work fine,but mileage will suffer in city driving a bit ,until it locks the converter.

MBHD

that cam has good lift for street use. the duration is for high torq/ and slightly higher than stock rpm. RV type.

i would recomend a stockish stall (1650) from my experience. esp with 4.11 gears and a low 1st geared 700r4.

now get it put together and make that wife happy! tom

Skezix,

Your cam looks very similar to the Clevite "MPG Performance" specs. Under this website's "Tech Tips", see "Cam Specs 250 Series Engines".

Just a note,there is no one set RPM for stock stall.

My "STOCK " stall on my GMC Syclone is 2100 RPM.

The stall in my Silverado is 1100 RPM.

Just stating the huge difference.

There probably is even more or less stock stall out there,,just stating in the difference in the vehicles I own that are stock.

Another side note the cam duration @ .050 on my stock Syclone cam is 175,,,,,,,,,,,,weak!!!!!!!!!!!!


MBHD

They make a convertor for the 700 that was used in police cars it has a stall around 2000 behind a 350 a little less with an inline. It will work very nice for you even at low speeds in traffic, yet it gives just a little more go under full throttle and can be bought rebuilt for less than a $100.00.

It looks like a typical "RV" type of cam. I would stay with the stock stall converter if you are using an OD trans. My son has a similar cam in his 240 powered '48 Anglia with a 3-speed trans (no OD). He used a 2500 stall converter but mileage would be better with a stock converter. But it do scream. You need to decide how much performance-vs-economy you want to trade off. In his case mileage wasn't important.

Just a note:
When your converter is locked,it does not make a difference if you have a 3000 stall or 1000 RPM stall, mileage will pretty much be the same steady state cruise while locked up on the highway.

City type driving,,,, converter unlocked,mileage will suffer.


MBHD

That depends on what signal is used to disengage the lock-up.
One common problem with early 700R4 (and AOD) was the fact that light throttle pressure at certain speed/load/temperature cruising conditions not only unlocked the converter, but shuttled it back and forth (lock-unlock) unless you increased or decreased speed.
If the cam is too big, you'll find that light acceleration will take you out of OD, or be unable to engage it until a somewhat higher cruising speed where a small cam wouldn't, unless you have manual over-ride of the lock-up feature.