Well i found a rebuilt 235 motor. Git it in and all ready to drop in the distributor. Primed it after a min i could feel the pressure, but nothing on the guage. I just put on a new Michnical guage with the clear plastic line. Nothing in the line. Pulled the vlve cover and Nothing on top. I kept trying. Felt the pressure, but nothing on top or on the guage.

Josh

How long did you try priming it?

Where is the gauge hooked up?

Ive done a total of about 15 min now. The guage is hooked up where the old one was in the other 235. It originally had a 55 235 in it. Now i think this is a 58.

Right on the driver side, below the throttle linkage stud on the block.

One possibility for no oil at the top end is under the sidecover there should be an 1/8"NPT plug near the middle of the block, and in some cases another one towards the rear, above the rear cam bearing. This applies to 58-62 blocks. Earlier blocks used an oil line to connect the two holes.
Sometimes people forget to install the plugs when rebuilding.

Take a look at the top of the long head bolts (remove valve cover). Do any of them have an "O" marked on them?

Not sure that you would necessarily get a reading on the gauge with such low rpms like you get from a drill. I can't remember if I got a reading on mine the last time I did this or not. Lets concentrate on the top end first...

Well ive doent his a bunch on V8s, and i can get over 40psi with the drill. So im sure the inline 6 is the same. I aslo took off the fitting on the side of the block And tried primming it and no oil came out.

The center head bolt below the rocker shaft has a O in the center.

What about the fitting on the side shouldnt i be getting oil out of it?

If you mean the hole where the gauge is hooked up, yes you should be getting oil out of it as that would be the supply line for the canister filter as well as where the gauge hooks up to.
Try rotating the crank about 90 degrees and prime it again.

The "O" means you have one of those drilled head bolts and it needs to be in the center-right hole, assuming they plugged the original oil passage at the top of the block deck. Sounds like it's in the right spot.

The fitting on the passenger side of the head won't give you any oil IF the plugs under the sidecover are missing...

The oil goes from the pump, through a metal line and into a galley in the block which feeds the bearings and the oil filter. If you can't get any oil out of the filter hole, then perhaps you need to drop the pan...

Ok it was setup for an external filter. So i ran a line inbetween the two 3/8 holes and got 60psi at the gauge, and oil to the head. Thanks for the help.


Josh

3/8" holes?

Was this converted to full flow? They should be 1/8" NPT if original...

See the tech tips on our left sidebar for what a full flow conversion entails...

OK,
Just saw the pictures and BS over on the HAMB. It has been converted to full flow. Run a filter...

Thanks, i will get one. Thanks

make sure its a bypass filter with they way you have it..........

I would like to add a precaution, make sure you hook up the filter correctly. In your case, if it is a standard full flow filter mod, the bottom hole will be pressure from the pump and the upper hole will go to the galley. I sold a fresh prepped 261" with full flow and instructions, the guy still hooked the filter up backwards and fried the bearings.

Tim

Use a remote spin on filter setup for a Ford filter. Do not use a factory bypass fitler setup with a full flow conversion. Make sure the lines are run correctly as Tim says...

Thanks for the tips guys. Ill get a filter setup on it. Got it all together, broke in, and tuned. Timing dead on, lash .006/.016, dwell 30. But she still seems to be alittle ruff. Heres a video clip of it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yw5UYnIRT5k&feature=channel_page

You need a no name aluminum valve cover on it. Makes 'em run smoother

Sounded good to me...

What's on it for exhaust?
What is the camshaft?
Is it balanced?

What specifically is wrong with the starter? 6 or 12 volts?

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-62-Vacuum-Advance-6-Cylinder/productinfo/83-274/

I just got your email with the pics. Man that is some real nice looking stuff, great job on it! Im gonna forward the email to Tony, Thanks!

It just seems like its missing alittle. Got to be something with that carb.

I have the 2" opening up to 2-1/4 and a cherry bomb.

Cam and balance? IDK the guy we got the 235 from didnt have any of the specs at all! NADA!

What I'm getting at is if you don't know what the specs are, then you can't ever really know if its running "rough", or if it's supposed to be that way...

What rpm does it like to idle at?

It will iddle at about 6-700, but i have it turned up from having the vacuum advance unhooked.

That shouldn't matter. If you're not running vac, just bump up the initial timing. I've run my '53 both with and without the vac hooked up with just a change to the initial setting. Runs just fine. Milage over time is a little better with it hooked up, but that's about all...

If it really needs to idle around 700, then there's a good chance it has a little more cam than stock, which could account for a little rougher idle.

Also, what does it have for a motor mount setup? I assume it has the front mount under the timing cover? if so, then it still needs the mounts that were on the sides of the bellhousing. If those were removed, then it can rock back and forth too much and could be adding to the "roughness"...

It has the front setup, and no side. I made a solid support bar on the pass side to help with the rocking. When Tony brings it back ill start with swapping out to the original rebuilt 1bl, and test. That way ill know if its in the carb or not.

thanks for the kind words

Hey Man its just the truth. Nice Sh*t!