Well my son and I built the 235 from Hell. Part of the build involved having the block machined and fitted with a full flow oil filter. About every 6000 miles it begins th leak at the input location into the block and onto the exhaust. Of course this is not accessible since the Clifford headers are in front of it so we have to remove the whole side to fix it. My question: Could we possibly be putting in too much oil and creating too much pressure. The shop manual says five plus 1 for a filter so we are running six quarts.
If not what do you use as a sealant on the threads. I have tried several out of the tube thread sealants. So far no luck.

No, it's not the oil level... The oil level has nothing to do with the oil pressure, that's what the pump is for...

What are you using for fittings, lines, etc... a picture would help...

We took the directions straight off the HAMB and Inliners websites. We used the 1/8" NPT fittings with Permatex thread sealant and coppet tubing. We purchased the remote oil filtr kit from Jegs.

Shouldn't Full flow mods be using 3/8" NPT? the stock bypass setup is 1/8"...

What size lines? compression fittings or? Is it possible you have the lines over-constrained and too much motor flex?

If it's so hard to see etc, how do you know for sure that its leaking where the fitting screws into the block?

Pipe threads with a little RTV shouldn't be leaking...

A picture of how you have everything routed would be helpful...

Sorry I can't post the pictures to thi. It is 3/8" fittings and the filter is attached to the block so that it moves with it. I'll try posting pics again.
Thank you

you need to post it on a website like http://www.picturetrail.com first, then you can link it into this site. I don't believe you can post directly from your desktop...

With the information you've given it sounds like you've got the "remote" filter attached to the block.... plumbed with hard lines. You didn't mention the size of the lines you're using.

I have a similar modification on my 235 with the filter mounted on the firewall and plumbed to the block with 1/2" rubber lines and using AN fittings. This eliminates any possibility of engine vibrations effecting the block fittings which is what I think is happening to your setup. I was advised to use permatex thread lock (not thread sealer or RVT) on the threads in the block and haven't had any leakage issues in 8000 miles.

I really don't have a simple solution for your dilemma other than to bite-the-bullet and eliminate the potential for future leaks by using the soft lines. Mounting your filter remotely where your block fittings get no stress, will cure your leakage issues. I have pictures of my install in my Webshots "Tips and Tricks" album on pages 6 and 7. Hope this helps.

Dave

Dave that looks real nice, I especilly like the insulation on the pipes and hoses (the strain relief on the hose for the 'out' line looks nice too ).

Is that the DEI self adhesive hose wrap tape on the hoses? How much luck are you having getting it to stay on there?

I ask as I tried it for a similar application, and I couldnt get it to stay on, even when I used hose clamps to hold it to the sockets on the ends (I was using the rubber jacketed hose as well ).

I used a couple turns of ss safety wire on each end with a twist and it's as good as the day I put it on. I'm not much of a fan of the header wrap but my first attempts at running the lines to clear the downpipes made me think it was necessary. By running the rubber pressure line forward and up to the filter mount I've kept the heat off.

Using the AN fittings and the rubber line is a bit more pricey than copper or ss but it totally eliminates any stress on the block fittings. There aren't many threads in the block and if you're developing leaks you could be setting yourself up for some headaches down the road. Have also noted that my oil temperature stays right at thermostat temp (180) and Speedway sells a slick cast aluminum cover for $20.00 that covers the filter can.

Dave

Thank you.

Considering how tapered pipe threads are near leak proof, and assuming that it is really leaking at that point, I'm wondering if it's possible that the tap was run too far into the block, therby creating a "not tight enough" condition between the block and fitting. If it's possible to run the fitting into the block all the way up to the hex, then this may be the problem. If you clean up the threads real good with some carb or brake cleaner, then use some thread locker, maybe that will be enough to make it stop.

As for pictures, you can just send them to my personal email, and I can post them...