I tore my garage apart looking for the flexplate bolts for my 292. I can't find them anywhere. Looks like I will need to order some new ones.

What size are they? I wonder if I can get them at the parts store, or if I'll need to get them from summit or jegs.

Get some of those locking type from ?

Grade 8? Anyone? Name slips me.

MBHD

size-wise, IIRC correctly aren't they 1/2" fine thread?

Try ARP brand. Jegs or Summit or any mail order place should have them.

I used stage 8 fasteners on my 292. Tom

found some 1/2" x 20 locally, but they were 1" long. I think I need 1/2" for length. I guess the engine's not going in today

It will not hurt anything to cut a few threads off the end of the bolts. ARP Pontiac flexplate bolts require no mods.

I went with the Stage 8 292 bolts, which at least from what I could come up with in a search, are listed as either Hemi or Chrysler big block FLYWHEEL bolts. I had to cut them down as I have an automatic. I believe they are available only directly from Stage8.

Bruce - that is correct. The flyweel bolts I picked up (Mr. Gasket) were for a Hemi or Chrysler. There was also a pontiac engine listed, but can't remember what it was right now.

I thought about cutting them down, but didn't want to mess anything up.

Here are the bolts I ordered this morning:
1/2 in.- 20 RH, .500 in

Bruce, did you need to order a different flexplate when you bolted up the 700R4?

I currently have a PG installed and am wondering if I'll need a different flexplate or not.

Off hand, can someone tell me what the bolts should be torqued to?

They should get here today, along with my radiator, carb spacer, fuel line fittings, throttle return springs...

Maybe the recommended torque specs will be included with the bolts, but 85-90 ft. lbs. will get you close. Make sure you use red loctite on the threads as well. Sounds like its coming together nicely for you.

Thanks. If everything shows up today, I should be able to get the engine in the engine bay tonight or tomorrow.

I just got the bolts. It says if you're using arp moly lube, torque them to 90 ft-lbs. If using 30 wt oil, to torque them to 150 ft-lbs. I wonder why there is such a difference.

With the moly lube, much less torque is required to achieve the desired stretch for the bolts.

If I have moly lube, can I just use that, or does it need to be ARP brand?

It probably wouldn't matter. I have 2-300 packets of ARP lube left over from all the engines i've built over the years, i'll send you a couple if you would prefer to use their brand.

Thanks for the offer, but I'm planning on getting the flexplate on tonight or tomorrow.

Ok, the moly lube you have should be fine then.

I have 'engine assembly lube, with moly graphite.' I'm guessing that will be fine.

The ARP lube is a grey paste. Its designed to be used in a friction type of application, like between threads or under the heads of nuts and washers where you have metal to metal contact. If what you have is more like an additive or and oil, it might not be so similar.

For whatever it's worth, when I get moly assembly paste on my hands (yes I try to keep that to a minimum) it feels smooth, when I get ARP moly bolt lube on my hands it feels kinda gritty.

Don't know if that makes any difference for flywheel bolts (or any other threaded fastener).

This is what I have:

http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3333-Anti-Seize-Engine-Assembly/dp/B000CPAWP6

http://www.crcind.com.au/catalogue.nsf/(.../$FILE/MSDS.pdf

If I need something else, I'll go to the parts store. I went on the way home from work and they didn't have any where I stopped.

Good luck mate, and keep us posted. I'm stoked for this install.

-Sam.

thanks. So do you guys think what I have is ok, or should I get something else?

Looks like the engine won't be going in tonight. I guess I'll work on mocking up the fuel pump bracket.

I hit another road block tonight. The flexplate I have isn't drilled for the pins that the 292 crank has.

Can I just drill the holes myself with a drill press, or should I take it to a machine shop? I have the flywheel that I can use as a pattern.

You could probably do it in a drill press, but you might not be able to hold the same tolerance for the hole sizes and spacing of the dowels with a drill bit. The holes in the flywheel are more than likely reamed to have a more snug fit on the dowels, so the flywheel wont have any movement. You dont want it to fit loosely on the dowels or have any wiggle to it before you put the bolts in it.

should I just order a new one then? I see that rockauto has them.

They are meant for the th350. I wonder if it will work with my PG and the 700R4

It should work with the Glide, the only issue I see with the 700 is that the converter bolt pattern might not be the same, but you could re-drill that with a hand drill or drill press since their just clearance holes and not precise.

Here is the type flywheel you need. Plenty cheap too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Chevr...sQ5fAccessories

Thanks Tom. I'm trying to figure out if the flexplate will need to be drilled to fit the 700. If that is the case, I think I want to drill it first. I haven't done it before, but I imagine pulling/installing flexplate while the engine is in the car might not be much fun.

Should be no drilling required if it is a flywheel like the one in auction. There are two sizes of bolt patterns for torq convertors. Worth checking once it is in hand though. That one appears to only have the bigger bolt pattern. Should be like 700R4. Tom

When I installed the 700 in the 66 I converted it from a manual trans. The flexplate I used had both bolt patterns. Just hold the convertor up to the flexplate and see if they line up...

We can tell you really want to get this thing together. Good luck!!

I've been trying like heck to get this done by May 1st - I've been putting in 20-30 hours per week for the last 3 weeks and working some overtime at work. I think I finally threw in the towel yesterday though. I ran into a problem with the oil pan. It isn't notched enough, so I need to figure out what to do (big notch, drill block, or put dipstick on outside of block).

Torque on the 7/16-20 flywheel bolts is 60#. Couldn't find anything for the flexplate in my 68 manual. The torque for the 396/427 flywheel bolt 7/16-20 is 65# 8^]

Larry

I picked up a torque converter today. I ordered the flexplate in the auction above back in April. The flexplate and the torque converter do not have the same bolt pattern.

The old flexplate I pulled off of the 194 will actually bolt up to the torque converter, but as stated earlier, it does not have the holes for the alignment dowels, and is quite a bit smaller diameter wise than the 292 flexplate.

What are my options?
Remove the alignment pins and use the 194 flexplate? Does it matter that it is smaller?

Get a custom torque converter made that will match up with the bolt pattern on the flexplate?

btw... that old auction isn't listed anymore. I believe this is the same flexplate, being sold by the same seller:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Chevr...es#ht_500wt_956

Sounds like you got bogus info?
" There are two sizes of bolt patterns for torq convertors."
As you found out,there is another pattern?

Using a 153 tooth flexplate does not matter,it will spin the engine faster while cranking.

You can get a smaller flexplate (153 tooth)
Example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pioneer-A...sQ5fAccessories
Drill holes for the dowels.

What torque converter do you have?
What is the stall speed,won't need much for a 292.



MBHD

I have a couple of the smaller ones around here. I guess I could try drilling those out - a little worried about this b/c I don't have a drill press that is big enough to fit the flexplate.

Does the smaller flexplate require a different starter?

The torq converter is just a stock stall. I was told 1200-1600 rpms.

There are high torque & low torque starters (being stock type)

If you buy an aftermarket light weight starter,they usually will work on both flexplates 168 & 153 tooth.
Example:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Lightweight-Starter-for-S-B-Chevy,2400.html

Take your time drilling,center punch it first,(use your new flexplate to mark where to drill new holes)then use smaller drill bits & work your way up to the final size.

MBHD

Does a SBC starter just bolt up to an L6?

Yes.
The aftermarket ones uses the inline bolts.
Some blocks only have the inline starter bolt patern,you can drill for the other pattern in your block if needed.
I just bought a lightweight starter & can use a 153 or 168 tooth flexplate.
Low torque bolt pattern are inline,the Higher torque starters have the diangle bolt pattern.
Low torque startes are shorter than the high torque starters.
(Factory type)

thanks Hank.

I see that you're in CA. What part?

This is what the 292 flexplate looks like when held up to the torque converter:



The 292 flexplate came with this 'reinforcement plate' (not sure what else to call it). I was thinking I could bolt it up to the 194 flexplate and use it as a guide for drilling the two new holes. I had previously drilled the bolt holes out to 1/2" before I realized I needed dowel holes.


Is it ok to do it this way, or should I remove the plate and then drill the holes?

Also I was looking at the teeth on the 194 flexplate. Here's what they look like:



I should have another 194 flexplate or two around here if I can find them. If I can't find them, should I buy a new one?

You can use the plate as a guide for drilling.

That old flexplate looks kinda beat.
A new one will work better.


MBHD