Guys

i have a set of comp cams roller lifters part # 818-16. i want to use them in my Chevy 250, but that tie link bar is too short! any one has any idea of which size or which part number link bar i need?

thanks

Edy

Not sure, but have heard Oldsmobile tie bars are correct. Anyone else? Tom

The 818-X is for SBC, center distance is 1.350". The actual SBC tappets are 1.56" apart.
Oldsmobile is much bigger, center distance is 1.654", tappets are 1.877" apart.

do you think the oldsmobile's like bar would do the job?

How far apart are your tappets?

If you run roller chevy lifters use Olds 350-455 tie bars. Push rod guide plates you use the 350-455 Olds or the 151 chevy for the 1977-79 engine

All the manufacturers make links for a small range of inter-tappet spans (not one for each motor), since there has to be slack in them to allow for "1 tappet up, 1 tappet down".
If the Olds is very close at 1.877", the other V8s that use the same 1.654" link are probably OK as well, but both are smaller: Chrysler B/RB 1.800", Pontiac 1.818". Your cam lift may be smaller than their designed-in max, allowing for a shorter link to work.
If not, the next wider link is 1.884", used on: AMC V8, Ford FE.
Probably too big: BBC, Ford 385.
Probably too small: SBF, small Buick V8
Just a guess: Buick 400/455 may work.

Hate to say this, but there's no reason why your links (or another set that's not the right length - your links may be easy to sell, lots more people looking for SBC than other V8) can't just be widening by welding a strip of flat stock in-between the ends. Saw or grind them in the center to insure that the locating buttons don't pass across the cut. Use a jig to make sure they're parallel. The weld can overlay the cut ends, but should present to the cover side to prevent interference with the block.

Check with a file to see if they are hard before you attempt to cut and weld. If they are hard you can still cut and weld, just need to be more careful. I think I would try sectioning with a plasma cutter or cutoff wheel, then TIG back together with quench plates on the ends so the ends stay hard but yet enough heat in the middle and moderate cooling rate to avoid cracking. Possibly use stainless filler rod.

I'm guessing they are hardened medium-high carbon steel. Anyone confirm this?

X2 - keep the heat away from the finished ends of the slots to retain the hardness and fit to the buttons.

I tried the SBF and it's realy too small!

hum... need to check!!!!

Guys

The idea of cutting/welding is good, but i was checking the price of these link bars, they cost 3 to 5 US$ each. i think getting some new ones is much easier and cheaper not?


Edy

Guys

The idea of cutting/welding is good, but i was checking the price of these link bars, they cost 3 to 5 US$ each. i think getting some new ones is much easier and cheaper not?


Edy

I agree, buy the new ones. Tom

I'm surprised they're that cheap, remember you need 6 pieces.
Just buy them.

Crower has lifters with the tie bars specifcally for Chev inlines on their website. http://www.crower.com/catalog/camshaft_accessories.shtml

Bruce

I have already the lifters, i need just the link bars!!

Edy

Then just get the Olds link bars, call the mfg. for the lifters you have and they will usually send you a set for a real reasonable price. They are the same as the setup as the 153's except 4 instead of 6 and that's what the midget racers have been using for years.

This is an excellent attitude on the part of Comp - they know they can't sell you a set of tappets (you already have them), and by allowing you to get the bits you need you stay with their brand.
The prevailing "sales pitch" at way too many places is "what's the highest price we can charge before the customer hangs up?".

that's true! i have a complete valve train from them, and i intend to keep using the brand in the future!