I am devoted to building a 292 turbo. i have nothing yet but i want to know everything im going to need. can i use a stock crank? what cam and what lift? roller rockers? what pistons? want to be able to run high boost.

You could start by getting a big wheelbarrow full of money. When you say high boost are you meaning 800 HP or 400 HP. You need to be more specific with your goals if you want more specific info.

if i could hit 500 hp to the crank that would be awesome.

I would definately recommend forged pistons for any forced induction application, also extensive cylinder head work would be required along with bigger valves, lump porting. Roller rockers are always a good upgrade. The stock cast crank is fine for this build, but I would try to find one that has NF cast into to it. The early forged crank is ok as well, but it isnt fully counterweighted if that matters to you, and if you can find one. You might also consider upgrading the connecting rods to something other than the stock ones.
What turbo are you planning to use?

i have no idea. thats why im here haha. i need recommendations from those who know.

The closest you're going to get to a list of every part and machining operation is Santucci's book. Be prepared to spend lots of money.
http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/Mopar-books.htm#CI-LS2

now as far as a head, i have a 230 and a 194, and i didnt know if i could use the head off of either of those to do this and get a smaller chamber to increase comp.

even if you have super deep pockets finding a "good" 292 block is extreamly hard to find. most wont clean up at .060 o/b

I seem to think Tlowe has found a lot of 292's that do not need to be bored over .060"? Maybe not, Tlowe?

MBHD

I have a few ?s. 1 whats " alot of money " 10,000 ?. and can you put a turbo on just a fresh built 292 let say to get just over 350 hp.

do you need to have special pistons and valves too?

When going w/forced induction, it is wise to use forged pistons.

You do not need special valves for a turbo or blower, but, it also depends on your build.

MBHD

I can see where this is going.
Good luck with your project.

did i cut in line or are my ?s not worth answers...just wondering

To Me, $10,0000 is a lot of money.

Yes, you can just put on a turbo onto a fresh 292 & make 350 HP w/a cam change also.

Other mods will help you make it easier, larger valves installed, mild porting.
You could use cast pistons, just do not let the engine detonate.

MBHD

How much money?
Do you mean "how much money if I don't have the engine yet, have to find it, get it home, buy all the parts, then have a shop rebuild it and install the turbo and the complete exhaust system in my car"?
Or can you do some of the work?
In this case I suspect not, as he's asking questions at level zero.
Another factor: the first 100 hp is very, very cheap compared to the last 100.
A 300 hp 292 is easy. A 500 needs almost every part except the block and crank heavily modified or replaced.

Thanks for the answers. Another ? if you dont mind. would it be best to just build the motor strong and skip the turbo to get let say over 300hp slightly...

and just wondering do you think 10000 would build a 500hp turbo motor and could somthing like that be drove around town and live very long.

The main issue with a relatively high HP 292 is the connecting rods. Stock, they are long and skinny, and not suitable for high HP builds even with good bolts installed, beams polished and shotpeened. With virtually no interchangability of parts from any other engine out there, that only leaves custom rods as the only alternative at around $1000 bucks just by themselves. Add $650-$700 for forged pistons, another $1500+ for the cylinder head, additional block work can be in the $1500 range depending on prices in your area. Tlowe has a 450 HP 292 turbo engine in his street car and is pretty streetable on a regular basis, but pushing that limit to 500 HP and beyond just pushes the cost higher also, but it can be done, just be prepared to spend more at this point.

Here is a turbo 292 built.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gex-uUio8Dc&list=FLC47WILAMLZIhl7pE8DUelg&index=13&feature=plpp_video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QslZvPAYkGM&feature=channel&list=UL

MBHD

Ive seen that truck a few times befor. that is crazy for sure. not looking to do anything like that but i would like a solid 300 plus to the back tires. ive been told running a 264 cam. uping the compression to 10/1 some other minor stuff headders and a big webber can make a pretty spunky ride. what do you think about that.

ok so now begs the question would it be easier to get a 292 with 300-350 hp or turbo a lesser hp one? is the expensive part the turbo setup?

Here is a N/A 292

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isq9LZyPgzU&list=FLC47WILAMLZIhl7pE8DUelg&index=43&feature=plpp_video

292 cid inline 6, bored 60 thsd over
Kirby/Sissell aluminum 12 port head
Hilborn mechanical fuel injection
12 to 1 compression
Aluminum rods
MSD ignition
Crower solid lifter cam
Running on race gas
Dynod at 460+ hp at the flywheel
All steel body weighs 2803 lbs (just over 3000 lbs with driver)

i dont have the engine yet but i found one thats still in the crate brand new for 800. so how much would that setup cost me?

This set-up? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isq9LZyPgzU&list=FLC47WILAMLZIhl7pE8DUelg&index=43&feature=plpp_video

Just the cyl head is $4000-5000

My above post is pretty much the foundation for the building of a 292 in or around the 300 HP range, so you can use that as a baseline to expand on if needed.

While it is easy to build a 292 to make 300-350 HP with or without a turbo, the hard part is finding a money tree to supply the cash to do it. The trade-off of using a turbo is the same HP goal at a lower RPM, but still, quality parts and machine work are going to be required to make it live and protect your investment. There is a classic example of someone building a 250 with a turbo over in the Blown and Injected section and not prioritizing the importance of parts selection and melting his pistons in just a few short weeks of street driving. He is now buying another set of "wrong" pistons and in another few short weeks will have some more melted pistons. Building one of these engines for high output is not cheap, but the rewards are multiplied if you do it the correct way.

So to make sure im hearing you right. to get 300hp and have life ill be needing custom rods, and forged pistons at the very least.

No, custom rods wouldn't be needed for anything in the 300-350 HP range. Probably not for anything up to 400 HP, but beyond that your on borrowed time.

so can i use a stock 292 head and do work to it? ill probably need arp studs everywhere and new pistons but what else would i need? cam and intake and headers right? the stock block and crank should hold up fine as well as the connecting rods, correct?

You can use the stock siamese port head, only the non-integral head though. But you will need to prep the head by installing bolt-in lump into the intake ports, and installing larger valves and porting. The stock block and crank are fine. There is a thread on here that contains a very thorough dyno test session for the 292 done a few years back that contains much of the needed info you are seeking. So if you do a search, it should pop up as to the parts used to reach the goal you are looking for.

thank you so much man. any idea of what size valves i should get or where i could get lump ports for the heads?

Remember the original question: "Need exact specs"?

He still wants them. He's just going to ask for them 1 question at a time.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-45600-1/ ?

http://t6racing.org/id12.html


MBHD

the reason i ask 1 at a ime is because im 19, ive done body and paint since i was 10, and i want to get into the engine building process but i have to learn somewhere. ive been reading a few books on it and watching my friends build up their engines. but the people here have personal experience and thats why i ask. so i apologize if im a little slow to embrace the concepts, but i want to make sure i do this right. Hank and CNC have been great help. im just trying to get everything i need in a list so i can buy it all at the same time.

Tlowe here on the forum is the one who spearheaded all the 250 and 292 dyno testing a few years back. Everything needed for your build can be purchased from him directly at http://www.12bolt.com
From pistons, cams, to complete cylinder head packages with the lumps installed ready to bolt on.

haha that is a perfect site. i have a 65 chevelle and that has it all. thanks man

Your welcome Nolando, glad it was helpful for you. Thats what were here for.

so if i got a used 292 and did the work to it, how big would recommend the bore be? i see a lot of people telling me to go 60 over but does that leave those walls too thin? would a 40 over or a 20 over be better? and what would you guys recommend for valve sizes? i see a few could get but i dont know what would be best. i am also wondering how hard it would be to do a fuel injection system on this. any ideas would be great.

I recommend overboring only as much as is needed to clean up the cylinders. Your concerns over thin walls are justified in this application.

so if i didnt turbo the 292, what size valves would be the best bet to run?

your going to pay the same amount of money no matter what size valve you go with. So if your going to install a lump port kit. And want all that the head can give go with the 1.94in. & 1.6ex.

alright and can someone please explain the use and need for a stud girdle?

A stud girdle would only be needed for instances that you would be using a camshaft that required very heavy spring pressures(big solid lift or roller) and high RPM. If you are planning to machine your head for screw-in studs, you can upgrade to 7/16" studs and be safe with that and not need a stud girdle. The purpose of a turbo is to make a lot of HP lower in the RPM range so you do have to rev the engine to the moon to make the same HP.

so to stay as budget friendly as possible, yet as cool as i can, would you recommend going the turbo route or the built 292? I am going to put this into a 65 Chevelle 4 door with shaved handles and a 5 speed conversion (everything you shouldnt do to this car)

IMO.
I would build a turbo 250 engine.

Less hood clearance w/a 292.

More work to install a 292.

A 292 will get worse gas mileage.

I would leave it an automatic & use a 200R4 or a 700R4.

A stick is fine also, your preference.

My 2 cents.

MBHD

i have a passionate hatred for automatic cars. i own 6 cars and all of them are stick haha. Now why would it be harder to install? i can understand the clearance, but what else would make it so hard to install?

I did not say it is hard to install,,there is more work = more money to install, it does not just drop right in using stock engine mounts.

Maybe when you try out a turbo charged car & want to go consistanly faster than a manual trans car,(possibly less parts breakage) then you might reconsider an auto trans?

IMO, a stick car w/a typical low reving 292 is just a waste.
I would rather have an engine that you can rev it higher & a manual trans. Just my preference.

But to each there own.

MBHD

Nolando, I agree with Hank about the turbo engine instead of a Strong N/A engine. To build a 400 HP N/A engine for instance, can end up being more expensive to build than a turbo engine with 400 HP. Also, the 292 engine would be a real powerhouse to build with a turbo, but much more cost to build than a comparable 250 with a turbo of the same power output. There is a ton of off-the-shelf H-beam and I-beam aftermarket rods for the 250, but the 292 engine is a one-of-a-kind in that department, and at that HP level I would highly recommend it for either engine. Also as hank said, installing a 292 into a passenger car can be a challenge on several fronts, not only from the motor mounts, but also from the headers. 292's were only installed into pickup trucks, therefore headers for a passenger car might not always bolt-up good and provide clearances around the steering and other components because of the 292's much taller deck height. Its also a preference thing just like the straight shift, but do what your comfortable with.

so what would i have to do to a 250 to get that kind of power out of a 250? i have a 230 that is a fresh rebuild and a 194 that is torn down but what would i have to do to turbo the 250 and get that 400 hp?

i will consider the auto again once i get done with the engine

Larger valves installed.
Forged pistons are highly recommended. Approx $600
3" downpipe.
Methanol injection. I use this currently & would recommend: http://mysite.verizon.net/res11pgkr/vehicles/customkit.html
I have also used this: http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/cp1.html

It's not absolutely necessary to install lumps. Profile the cyl head intake boss to a minimum w/out going too far as to getting into the bolt hole. The turbo will force the A/F mixture past the intake boss w/out a sweat
This would be done if you are on a budget. Other wise install some lumps.
Small profile camshaft.
Depending on budget,& if it will fit, a SPA turbo exhaust manifold, or use a truck 292 2.5" exhaust manifold w/a "J" pipe.

I am pretty sure you can use a SPA manifold & run a flange w/exhaust tubing & locate the turbo where you want to.
Example: http://t6racing.org/t6racingbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=48
Just to position the turbo where you have room for a downpipe.

You can do something like snowman did & the chassis is simular to yours.
https://www.inliners.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=59760#Post59760

MBHD

so if i run methanol can i run fuel injection or am i messing something up?

You can run fuel injection.

My Syclone is fuel injected & I use the alkycontrol methanol injection system.With injecting methanol, I run up to 25 PSi of boost pressure on 91 octane pump gas.

The link I posted has an additional spray nozzle that can spray methanol or water or both.

MBHD

More boost! Tlowe got 350HP with just 5 psi boost on the 250 dyno tests he conducted. With 8 psi and intercooled you shoud easily reach that if not more.

so would i still be using that t3/t4 turbo or something bigger?

and how much did it take you to build your motor, Hank? just making a budget to try to stick to.

I have not added up all the prices, too scared.I still need more parts also for the new build. I am going to turbo my engine that is currently in my car, It was previously supercharged. At least that is what I am planning on doing.
It's not running w/a turbo yet.

My new engine is not built yet.

If you want to just add parts to your existing 230 you can do so.That would be a budget minded build.

You can add turbo & supporting parts to your 230 & spend about $1000 - $1400 & make 200-250 HP pretty easy @ the flywheel.
That would be running low boost.


Like when I helped snowmans build, but his is a 250.


The problem is you just cannot allow the engine to detonate, cast pistons cannot take much detonation before they explode.



How much do you think you can afford for this budget?

$1000, $2000, $3000, $4000? more?

Reason being, there are cheap parts & pricey parts, like turbos, wastegates,B.O.V.'s etc.


So let us know when you get a chance.

MBHD

i would like to keep it at or under 3500 if i could but i dont know how realistic that is. I am starting from scratch so i really dont know the cost im looking at. i will run forged pistons and whatever i need to build it right. i dont want to have to take this all apart right after i build it.

does 3500 sound reasonable or am i way too low?

You may be a little low. Not far off.
It depends on who will be doing the work to the engine. How much ability you have to fab up the turbo setup.

i can do the fab pipes and stuff. but as far as machine work, no i cant. as Far as actual assembly, I can do that.