Bear with me, it's probably a stupid question but I'm tired and I just happened to look at things underneath today as I pulled the oil pan and rods&pistons out.... and I thought, "Hmm, what's stopping the crank from coming out if i unbolt the torque converter and the bearing caps?" Is it possible?

I have to get it out and have the rod bearing journals machined.

I have no trouble pulling the engine, I was just wondering.... why would I if its not needed?


Jan

It can be done, you'll likely wish you had gotten a root canal instead though. I definately wouldn't want to trade that chore with anyone.

If your crank needs to be machined your oil passages should probably be flushed and cam bearings be replaced?

Good point, I had not thought about the cam bearings.

I just wanted to refresh this thing and make it work right and serve as my backup if and when I get a 292 done... I'm torn, don't really want to dump more money in this engine. My plans "live" a little as time goes by, and now I have a friend's dad procrastinating with his 292-SBC swap. That engine is earmarked for me... he just needs to pull it out.

Jan

An engine stand allows for the block to be inverted for this step. I can't imagine how you would support the crank while removing the mains - and then the reverse to install with fresh bearings - not to mention with the patience to plasti-gauge the clearances while on your back . . . which is typically at least two installations/torque ups with tear downs to read tolerances. By the third install you would probably be quite skilled at doing this on your back . . .

regards,
stock49

I,VE REPLACED THE CRANKS IN ENGINES STILL IN CARS AND SEMIS ALOT IN THE PAST WITH PISTONS STILL IN THE BLOCK ! NO BIG DEAL ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE A HELPER.

As stock49 mentioned, you cant plastigage the mains unless its on an engine stand inverted. Its just going to be a crap shoot as to the bearing clearances if that was in the plans to do.

You guys do not need to use plastigage. You can use T-gauges dial bore indicators, outside mics etc to get your measurements.

You guys already know this.

If you shop around you can get new tools cheap (china) but you can also buy used tools of better quality.

MBHD

I am a fan of all of the above. The mics and gauges tell one story while the plastigage tells what's going on when it is all bolted together.

For me it's the last gut check prior to final assembly.

Just some FYI.

If you do not store the plastigage in the fridge, it will cause for inaccurate readings, or if being left out in the heat too long.

MBHD

Done all that before, more than once, plastigage included, under the car. Replaced main bearings too. No I do not love punishing myself like that

At this point I am not concerned about measuring anything since I will have the damn thing machined to an exact size. I'll measure when it comes back from the machine shop, just to make sure they didn't screw up.

I may end up pulling the engine and putting it on a stand, that was my plan anyways. I just wanted to know if the crank had room to come out without separating the engine from the trans. I guess it's a matter of how deep it engages with the torque converter and how far back the TC can be pushed once unbolted.
I can see a challenge in supporting the crank evenly when removing the caps, as well as putting it back in
Don't need a banana for a crank.
I was just curious.

Modify your radiator support to make a removable section in the middle makes it a lot easier to pull engine and trans as a unit. Be sure you have a 1.5 inch OD tube or driveshaft yoke to plug the back end of your trans or you will make a mess for sure.

Just bent over backwards with the damn radiator.. new rad, 3 row instead of the old 2 row, and electric fan conversion.. hate taking it all out again, lol.

I was hoping to be able to yank just the engine out. Haven't done that yet on this car. Due to some unfortunate circumstances (stupidity, short sightedness, etc.) I can't use the concrete floor 2 feet away from the car, I have to do it on dirt. The engine hoist does not roll on dirt... not an inch. I can maneuver a stripped down engine block around but having to deal with the trans glued to it will be a pain. I have no reason to pull the trans out, but knowing myself, if I do take it out the project will once again escalate beyond my original scope... I would rather not face the temptation.

Jan