Been doing a bunch of research on threaded inserts since the one that was installed with the rebuild already pulled out leaving a 5/8" hole. There are only a couple options for fixing an already "fixed" hole. Big-sert (made by Time-sert) and E-Z LOC.

Okay, lets check this before I do something stupid. My buddy was able to get me some of the thick wall versions of the E-Z LOK inserts. They use a 7/8-9 external thread versus the standard version 3/4-10 thread. Being .125 larger, I am very concerned about the material that is on the water port side of the hole.

From the edge of the thread to the edge of the water port, it is only .125 wide. Is this enough material to not cause a crack or breakage? Should I go with the 3/4" external thread version, which will give me .0625 more material? Here's a couple pics.

It looks bigger but it measures .125


The rest seems okay


This is what I removed that had pulled out

I'd use the 3/4" version.

If this was mine I would use the 3/4 size. I would figure that I would not use this block again so I would J B Weld the insert in place. I would use studs rather than bolts and I might J B Weld that stud in. I would not tell anyone here that I did that.

Thanks guys. Yeah, other board I am on is also saying the 3/4" version so that's the way I'll go.

I am using studs. The red sealant/locking stuff on the insert, once cured is claimed to seal up to 6000psi. Supposed to be good stuff. Never been a real big fan of JB Weld for stressed applications.

Lock tite also has a green stud lock if you never intend to remove it.

Well this engine drama just continues. Got the smaller size insert. Drilled and tapped the hole. Well, side to side, I am dead on. For and aft, I am off 1 degree from vertical. It's enough that with the head on, the stud is not going to screw in without a lot of force (bad) or with the stud in the block, the head is off just enough that the alignment pins won't allow the head to drop onto the block.

The only thing I can think of is to slightly enlarge the hole in the head. Any thoughts or am I screwed???

Drill the hole in the head larger and you'll be fine.

Thanks so much for confirming my idea!!! I really want to get this engine back together and it is definitely giving my patience a workout. Sure am glad I am in my mid 40's as back in my twenties, I would have likely beat the crap out of it with a 5 lbs. hammer. LOL Now I know to just walk away and come back again with a clear head.

Keep the hammer close just in case you need it. Sometimes beating something into a tiny ball gives more relief than prayer.

If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem.

Hahahaha... no hammer needed tonight!!!

SUCCESS!!!!! I was able to use an adjustable reamer to open the hole up about .020" and the head fits on correctly!!!! All the studs went in correctly and all the nuts torqued to without any problems. I am so freakin' happy. Started putting the rest of the engine parts on. Hopefully have it ready to go back in next weekend.