Check out my build on killbillet. I'm making an intake for the 302. I'm pretty stoked about it! I'm open to your comments but please bear in mind I do realize that my design is not very technologically advanced. It's a 1 ton truck and I'm not trying set records at bonneville. http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?38526-50-3800-flat-bed-dually

It looks like a good start. How many of what carb are you thinking about. This is going to be a handy little truck.
My first 4bbl GMC manifold was a stock manifold turned over with the heat section opened up. I made an adapter plate for an old WCFB I had and filled the original single barrel hole. It was crude but it ran better than the single. It was before I knew better and before I was taking pictures of of my "creations"

Gonna run two DGV webers. Langdon told me I should run three for "even" fuel distribution, but it don't see why I can't space the carbs closer to the outboard ports than the center one? Also plan on welding a pipe on it it for heat.

Many people don't realize that on engines like this where you have (3)ports and only (2) carbs, there is a wedge inside the plenum in front of the center port that helps keep the fuel distribution equal to all (3) ports. Looks like a good start.

Scott is the wedge something built into the plenum? Will positioning the carbs closer to the outer ports work as well? Be hard to get something inside the plenum now but guess I could make another one. Usually make something two or three times before it's the way I want it anyway!

Yes, it is made like a triangle, and extends from the floor to the roof, and basically acts as a diffuser to keep the center port from being overly rich, and creates somewhat of a balance to all three ports. The best it can anyway. I think centering the carbs between the ports will help also.

That divider probably had considerable R&D in it so that it doesn't fry one/drown one, etc.
That means that its size, position, etc. works well with the original carb position, and vacuum levels (JM2¢: between 3" and 20" Hg?).
Be prepared for some tinkering as your manifold interior departs from this.

Thanks for your responses guys. Will probably place carbs as close to 1/3 distance from the end ports and 2/3 distance from center and call it good. I'd think spark plugs will be a good indicator of fuel distribution after I get it running. I'll let y'all know.

looks like a good idea. I'm getting ready to do the same only I'm going to use 3 of the small two barrel carbs that Langdon has. I'll make my manifold out of aluminum, I have a new tig and wire welders i'm wanting to play with. I'm thinking sheet aluminum valve cover also
Jay D

I hope your tig and aluminum welding is better than mine! My brother has a spool gun for his 180 miller we tried playing with. Very unsatisfactory results. Then we tried our dads tig machine and it wasn't much better. I was really disappointed, I welded on the job for 25 yrs. most with mig but I did tig and stick too. I was never the best but I could do a passable job. Think I've lost my touch!
I like this one I'm doing in steel though it'll have a real old school look and feel which is right up my alley!

Little more progress: http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?38526-50-3800-flat-bed-dually&p=322659#post322659

Yep, I'm no pro. ether but it will be a good learning experience. I also have some friends that are real good for back up
Jay D

I have 2 tig's myself. I prefer it to mig or stick more because I think it gives you more of a sense of being finished when your done. No grinding and no mess to clean up after.

[quote=CNC-Dude No grinding and no mess to clean up after. [/quote]

I was using my MIG today and it dosen't seem like we get the same results.

Have you ever mig welded inside your house. I tig welded a spiral stair case inside mine before, the room even had carpet in it, try that with a mig and see what all those sparks do.

No but I did do some mig welding on a truck I had the interior masked off for priming and caught the masking paper on fire! Of course none you guys ever did anything like that! I prefer tig too I just can't do it. I shake enough holding something with both hands let holding something in each. Some do our best with what we have. Two things and splatter will be very minimal. Set your machine on a piece of scrap first to where it's only spitting out very fine splatter. Also when finished with a weld or before starting another one use pliers or side cutters and clip off that little ball that forms on the end of wire. Do these two things and your time spent scraping, chiseling and sanding of splatter will be much shorter.
Scott I know the quality of your work it's top shelf and what I'm doing here with this manifold wouldn't be something you could sell or win races with. But I hope to inspire someone else like myself with limited skills or resources to maybe do more than they thought they could.

I was using my MIG today and it dosen't seem like we get the same results. [/quote]

Wire welders like me are a dime a dozen! I've run a million miles of it!:)

Im far from an expert myself Robert. Usually when I mig, I end up with several feet of wire balled up on the floor or stuck to whatever im welding.

Your machine work is as good as I've seen!
Can you tell me of a way I can use an end mill bit in regular drill press with a 1/2" chuck? Accuracy with a hole saw is pretty limited.

looking good can't wait to see it complete
Jay d

What size end mill bit are you going to be using. There are some cheap movable tables that can clamp or bolt to the drill press work surface that can give you travel in an X and Y direction if that helps. If your just going to be doing plunge cuts, you can cut a piece of plywood and place you metal on top of it and clamp both of them to the drill press surface. That will help keep the metal from moving as your milling it and once you break thru it, the cutter will hit the soft plywood and not mess up the drill press work surface.

We need a tech thread with welding, drilling, milling, fab tips. I was using an end mill bit in my lathe yesterday to cut a distributer shaft down. (Mallory Dual point thread and pictures coming.) It worked great but then I drilled the pin hole off center. With one eye center looks different.

Totally agree! Wish I had a mill and a lathe.............................. And some place to put it.

Plunge cuts are what was in my mind but now that you mention it one of those tables would be pretty cool.

cant you put the drive gear back on the shaft and drill (through both at the same time) a new pin hole perpendicular to the one you messed up? or perpendicular and up some or down some from bad hole--at least there would be matching holes.

This rural living is tough. I have a mill and a lathe but not enough electricity to power he mill. We mostly run off of solar panels. GREEN? Earlier this summer I bought a big BLUE Miller welder/power unit that we have not hauled up the hill yet. It is powered by a Jeep 4 cylinder. At worst it will be a bad ass stick welder and a 220v source for the smaller MIG and the mill. It is Hell carving an empire out of the wilderness.
Maybe a Fab Forum? But the trouble with Inliners is that too many here want to sell their "tips" rather than help and promote the Inline Tradition. The other problem is that once posted great information just fades away and is so difficult to search that t is easier t find on other sites.

not to mention them loud a_ _ crickets and frogs!

Be careful what you wish for! I've been handed a brand new state of the art 4 axis machining center and a lathe with live tools but they come with the catch of making an entire product line come to life.

Ha! None of these cheap hillbillies around here would do that. Besides of I've seen your work too Curt, my skill level isn't near what yours is.
I've a bit more done on the manifold yesterday and will post a link to more pics later. I got a Starret brand hole saw with carbide teeth that cut a neat straight hole right at 1.75", so I remade the port flanges. They fit much more to my liking. Also bought another evolution saw. A sliding miter that cuts 1/2" steel plate! I'll have enough money in tools I coulda bought a manifold!

Well it's all one piece now.
http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?38526-50-3800-flat-bed-dually&p=323000#post323000
Not finished but I'm pretty pleased so far. It is heavy! Wish I was better at welding aluminum.

Good job. I love it when we make stuff. I don't know what the effect of the log runners will have. That looks like the style used for high RPM duty. But I bet it will be fine for you.

Thanks! It is similar to the shape of a Howard intake and there are plenty of those running on the street. Besides I'm gonna let the hammer down time to time anyways! Just cuz I can!
I agree about making our own stuff. Makes the project uniquely yours! It does get tiresome though, I've taken about three weeks to do this and ain't done yet.

Looks good!

Looks kinda heavy.

Tell me about it. I've been building the components for my '26 Chevy Roadster project for years. Sort of the assembly line approach. Seems like I have spent more time repairing tools than working on the project. Should see progress this winter.

Really? I've already stated that it is in fact heavy. I've also already stated that it's going on a 1 ton truck ( gvw is 4800 +) that won't be competing at bonneville. I think it'll be fine.

Thank you Scott. That feels pretty good coming from you.

There are many talented people here, and I feel privileged to be in the same company with them.

I don't think you'll have much distribution problems, your plenum area is plenty big. You may need more heat though, show Tom your heating system and get his 2 cents, he's an awesome resource. It's a great build and I thank you for sharing it with us. The cheapest gas I found was down in Fort Smith last month, should make those gears and OD that much sweeter.

Armond, when you gonna move down so's we can start an inliners group?
Actually I don't have any provision for heat on it at all just yet. Plan on using 3/8 or so piece of pipe with a long slot in it. I'll put the slot against the plenum and weld down both sides of it. Both ends threaded for fittings.
It could be heated this way with exhaust or water either one. I had an old edmunds intake on the 261 which was of course meant to be heated with water. At the time I saw the tubes were 5/8 OD and I was running Fentons. It was easy to plumb for exhaust heat, I just used compression fitting on the manifold tube and reducers down to 1/4 copper tube (which I thought might burn out but never did) anyways it worked very well, warmed up quick! You could start it dead cold, get out and lay your hand on the intake and feel it warming up.
This time I'm leaning towards water heat. It will be slower to warm the manifold, but once it does it will never be too hot. Our summers are HOT. Although the 261 always seemed to run fine I'm sure it would have run better with less heat to the intake in hot weather.
So what do you guys think? Water or exhaust? If exhaust does anyone know of a simple way to control how much heat the intake is getting once it's warmed up?

Hi Robert, I'm getting there! Just came back from cutting, burning and the start to a pad. Years ago, I built a manifold and used almost the same heat you described. Showed it to Tom who immediately said it was "minimal" and wouldn't be enough. I'd personally add another layer underneath and heat the entire bottom with water, the exhaust will heat the down tubes. Oh, I know Arkansas summers are hot but not that hot! Big Bill doesn't use any heat on his manifolds and says they run fine. You can always run 'er as is and add later if needed. I'll be down in the spring too and will be in Lavaca, I'll give a heads up when the time comes.

Cool! The way Tom described it my plan was what he did to the manifold on his 39. We shall see, like you said I can always add more later.

Robert

My "heavy" comment wasn't meant to be negative. It was more sarcasm. LOL, In fact, I enjoy seeing home made speed parts. Everyone's take on them is different. I'm sure yours isn't any heavier than an iron intake on a V-8.

Anyhow, are you planning on doing some custom headers? I'd like to see what you come up with.

C a smiley face by it so we can all see it for what it is;) won't be doing headers I got jet hot coated Fentons. When I'm farther along on this one I've another 302 powered project in the works. A 39 Chevy "bobber" truck (ooh don't say that on the hxxb!) it'll have three carbs and I'm envisioning three separate cone lakes pipes sticking out the side and angling toward the back. May do it in stainless with intake and exhaust all on one flange.

You can read the sad story on the other site I really don't want to key it in again.
http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?38526-50-3800-flat-bed-dually&p=323373#post323373

I've built intakes for a straight 8 Buick and a GMC, NA, roots blown and EFI turbocharged, and have never added any heat to the intake manifolds. They always ran just fine, except when the ambient temperature is around 30 degrees and then it ran fine after the engine warmed up. Just my 2 cents.

Thanks GH, that's what my dad keeps telling me a choke is for.

Well, I've ordered all new material and I'm gonna do the manifold over again. I could just cut everything off the bottom of the intake plenum and start from there but it's just like about everything I do when it's done I think of a dozen different things I could've done different. It'll go faster since I've already done it. I've changed to tri-mix welding gas (it works with stainless too) which I've gotten more used to now. All patterns will be scribed on the steel before anything is cut. I'm going with my original idea for heat which will plenty sufficient for down here. I don't live in the arctic! Everything on the plenum except for the runner tubes will be welded while it's clamped down on a heavy steel table. The very last thing welded will be the runners to the bottom of the plenum.

I don't know what you're doing for air cleaners, but could you do a hot air kit off of your headers?

Maybe even use a air to water setup to pre-heat your air charge.

hot air kit

air to water kit

Robert, if you have the inclination, send your old manifold to me and let me play with it awhile, see if I can straighten it up. N/C of course :).

Armond, thanks for the offer but I could straighten it if I really wanted to or tried. Thing is even if I/you fixed it I still wouldn't like it. I'm looking at it as practice and a learning experience. This isn't the first thing I've screwed up and done over!:) I'll have new material in in a day or two. The next one will go faster and be a better end result.

Completely understand, had to toss it out. Still practice on every project I start. Good luck on the second round and keep us in the loop.

Will do.

Here we go again! This is more like I wanted to do it the first time. Believe we'll make a go of it. http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?38526-50-3800-flat-bed-dually&p=324068#post324068

That looks good. I have several GMC manifolds but the Edmunds is the one I'm going to use on my 270 because of the hot water feature. You do good work!

Did edmunds actually make an intake for the gmc? 216, 235 Chevy edmunds intakes are pretty common but I've never seen one before that I knew for sure was for a gmc. Saw one listed on eBay once supposedly for gmc course I was broke and didn't bid on it ( not that that is always a deterrent for me!). Thanks for the good word.

Edmunds made more stuff for more brands than any company I know of. Yes, they made GMC intakes. Mine is for the small port heads but that is what I use. I'll post a picture when I can.

If I'd found one I wouldn't be doing this. Everyone that runs one lives it!

If you weren't doing this I would not have told you Edmunds used to make them.

Sounds about right!

WooHoo! https://www.facebook.com/robert.french.9469?ref=tn_tnmn
Well this time it turned out a lot better. I've gotten used to the helium mix gas. You can weld quite a bit hotter with it. I welded the elbows to the plenum and the port flanges without having to patch any leaks. Might still weld something to it for throttle linkage but other than coating it with something it's pretty well done. Might powder coat it. I've heard of heat resistant powder paint. I am pretty stoked!

That's good.

I do not have a face book account. I am sure I am not the only one that does not.
Do you have any other place to see the pics?



MBHD

Yeah look at the earlier posts. I have a build thread on killbillet.com . I just updated it. You don't have to have a FB page to see the pics do you? Here's the link:
http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?38526-50-3800-flat-bed-dually&p=324399&posted=1#post324399

Got a 1/4" pipe nipple for top and side vacuum ports. The one on the top is for a vacuum gauge. Had to trim the center port flange to clear header flange woulda preferred to trim header but it al ready jet hot coated.

Those pics are OK but small, & yes you would need to join that site also to see a better view of your pics.

It is nice not having to join another website just to see pics.

I just use photobucket, http://photobucket.com/ but there are others.

MBHD

Here you go Hank: http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/robert4005/media/image-3.jpg.html . I got a photobucket page. When is somebody gonna tell me how to load pics on this site?

That's more like it!!!

Looks great!

MBHD

How is this for you guys.

Very nice. Good job. Here's the EDMUNDS .

nice job, can't wait to get started on mine
Jay D

Thanks for showing me that beater and thank you Larry.

I didn't send it earlier because I was afraid it would mess you up. The world might have had one less cool homemade speed part and you might be out there searching for an Edmunds and not own a one off.

Here is where I learned to post links and pictures. STOVEBOLT

HaHa! You know I've thought of it before and was again while looking your pic, it wouldn't be that difficult to make a sheetmetal intake patterned after the edmunds. Even if my aluminum welding isn't that satisfactory I can cut and form the material and get somebody else to weld it.
http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/robert4005/media/image-13.jpg.html?state=copy
. I bought this one recently on fleabay. Had to have it went in debt for it ( don't tell the wife!). Never seen another one like it, it has no markings letters numbers or anything on it to identify it. It still rates real high on the cool factor with me but this has been such satisfying experience I may sell it. For now I'm saving for a future project that is going to be more of a full blown hot rod.
Charlie Price vintage speed is repopping Edmunds stuff. Last I looked he has an offer to buy any Edmunds stuff. I emailed him once, he didn't seem interested in repopping any inline stuff. All about $$$$ ain't it?

That manifold is really cool. I have not seen one like it but I'm a country boy and haven't been far from home. Eddie Edmunds is my favorite speed equipment maker because he made so much for so many different makes.

What is your full on hot rod dream?

I have a 39? Chevy pickup cab with full hood and grill. I'm building one of those "bobber" trucks so many guys on the hxxb hate. Fenderless, short bed, already chopped 5". I chopped it by laying the windshield back instead of stretching the top like most do. Also plan on stretching the cab at least 6". I have two extra tops and sets of doors to do this, going to run the Chevy 6" drop straight axle and brakes and the parallel leaf springs. Going to hand build frame rails for the front that will look a lot like late 20s early 30s Chevy frame rest will be rectangular tube. It'll be Z'ed front and rear. The front Z will be hidden under cab. Another 302 with more cam than the one I'm doing now. 3 carbs on this one with 3 header pipes coming out the side. I have a 49 packard trans with 38 top shifter, r11 overdrive and a Dana 44 rear. Drive train should be plenty stout! Oh yeah almost forgot gonna have a full set of 17" 6 lug Chevy artillery wheels with mid 40s hubcaps. I found out the artillery centers will fit the outer rim from a 2003 to present dodge ram 3500 dually! So with some help from a machine shop I'll have 17" x 5" front and 17" x 6" rear wheels. I'd like run bias tires for the look but the way I like to drive and twisty roads I drive on may require radials! I like satin paint and a general unfinished look, but I'm not really a rat rodder. I hate rust! I don't do spider webs, beer keg gas tanks, themes having to do with satan or hell or sloppy welds. But if someone calls something I build a rat rod I won't be offended.

That sounds like a fun build. Some similarity to my '26 Chevy roadster plans. Parallel front leaf springs, Dana 44, Borg Warner 3 speed OD. My trans is a T86 with an R10. It will use a top shifter from a Jeep T90. (bolt on) Engine is a built 153 4 cylinder. I picked up a BW T85 with a R11 from a Lincoln the other day. You won't have to worry about breaking yours. They are tough. Coker is making radials that have an older look. My '53 actually drives better with radials.

I hate "Rat Rods"! I have never owned a finished pretty car so "in progress" is where I live. There is a huge difference especially for those of us who need to drive our projects. There is very little ratty about my '53 pickup, except for my "air unfreshener".