Christmas is too close. I have to replace part of my exhaust and I have some badly corroded exhaust studs to deal with.

Any suggestions for getting these things apart? I have had minimal success with using penetrating oil in the past (mostly because when the nuts are this badly rusted the oil won't penetrate).

I have one of those oxygen/MAP gas torches (the ones with the propane torch size canisters) that I can use for heat. Will they heat the manifold up enough to remove the stud if I break the nuts off?

Thanks for any help.

I've run across stubborn rusted parts like that in the past. If the penetrating oil does not work,(normally it take several attemps) wipe it off and try some cold. Heat usually expands the parts. Sometimes enough to crack the rust bond but sometimes not. If you go to the hardware or party store, ask for a can of CO2. Carbon dioxide. They use it to quick freeze party drinks. That will shrink the nut enough to usually loosen or snap off. Be careful though, it's extremely cold and it can burn to the touch!

I know it gets mighty cold up there. I spend a week up there many years ago at the Irving Oil company. Good Luck!

RapRap
1940 ChoppedChevyCoupe

get someone to help out first. heat manifold up with your map gas setup. get a beeswax candle and touch it on stud threads,it will wick up threads then have someone with impact remove nut. if the stud breaks remove manifold and drill it out. this is what my exhaust guy tells me he is going to do and charge me a small fortune because he hates doing it. so bite the bullit and prep your manifolds before you go to the exhaust shop.it's a crappy job but necesary. when they are all fixed use tons of anti-seize when you put it back together. good luck

That's right 'heat the manifold' or do it after it has been driven.

When you "put it back together" use brass nuts with the long thread (1") etc.

Good luck.

I got the nuts off the studs using the heat from the torch. I cleaned the studs up with a wire brush, then I heated the nuts up red hot. I turned them slightly with a 6 point socket.
I let it cool a bit then sprayed it with PB Blaster (great stuff.
I reheated the nut and it turned off easily. The nuts were originally 9/16 but I had to use a 3/8 socket hammered on the nut in order to get them off.

The quote for having the exhaust work done was $1000. I did it myself, taking my time, and spending $170. Everything has been reassembled with anti-seize in case I have to do it again.

Thanks for all your help, guys

As usuall I am "a day late & a dollar short" on this post but.... an old trick that we used on turbine engine bolts that were seized from temps exceeding 700 degrees C is to use "oil of wintergreen" see your local pharamcist or possibly a health food store. It works like a charm!