Hello to all. I am new to this site... but not to inline engines!
I am researching building a turbo/ supercharged chev 250 inline. I have been reading about the draw-though system and am wondering about turbo lag. It must take time for the fuel to get from the carb, through the turbo, through the intake and into the engine. But how much of a lag are we talking about. A few seconds after the throttle is pressed until the car moves? Sorry, this probably isn't classed as 'turbo lag' ( I know that turbo lag is the time it takes the turbo to spool and create boost, but what else would you call it?!)
I just want a fun driver with some scoot. I'd like to go back to a six, and I'd like a power adder. The draw through system seems to be the most simple.
Any help I can get would be awesome!
Adam
Having a correctly designed draw through set-up system can work fine.
1978 or so Buick Regals had draw through turbo charged 3.8 v-6 engines.
They ran fine when out of boost & ran a lot better when under boost.
This looks like it could be a great score if no one else bids on it.
Easy way to bolt onto your inline 6,it looks to be all there.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...RK%3AMEWAX%3AITRun/make a "J" pipe from the exhaust manifold to this turbine inlet.
Make it out of weld els/butt fittings schedule 40 IIRC.
MBHD
The problem is really fuel lag, but it's not a big problem unless your trying to complete with others heads up on an equal level i.e. class racing, I have ran draw throughs in the past and they are not that different from blow throughs unless you are looking for the highest level of performance. They spool fast and on the street don't feel much different.
GO FOR IT.
Harry
The problem is really fuel lag, but it's not a big problem unless your trying to complete with others heads up on an equal level i.e. class racing, I have ran draw throughs in the past and they are not that different from blow throughs unless you are looking for the highest level of performance. They spool fast and on the street don't feel much different.
GO FOR IT.
Harry
What was the most boost you ran with the draw though setup?
I ran 20 psi with the 60-1 / Q trim turbo as a draw through set up, on gas and alcohol.
Harry
The problem is really fuel lag, but it's not a big problem unless your trying to complete with others heads up on an equal level i.e. class racing, I have ran draw throughs in the past and they are not that different from blow throughs unless you are looking for the highest level of performance. They spool fast and on the street don't feel much different.
GO FOR IT.
Harry
What size turbo would you reccamend for a 250, with a stock cam, mild head work, maybe .030" over pistons, a log style intake with either a 650cfm carter 4 barrel or a holley 500cfm 2 barrel?
I haven't been able to get an answer on that one. not even an opinion!
I like the 60-1 or 62-1 for the street, makes 400-500 Hp even more if you want, but works great on the street great spool up.
If you want a real simple set up with out much fab work I would do a blow through. Get a exhaust manifold from Tom Lowe, a 4 barrel manifold and a 650 Holley carb, good fuel system, and a 60-1 turbo with a "P" or "Q" trim turbine and bolt it to a stock 250/292 with forged pistons.
All you need to fab is a 2 1/2" pipe from the turbo to a carb hat
and a exhaust pipe. And you are ready to go.
Harry
Harry [/quote]
What size turbo would you reccamend for a 250, with a stock cam, mild head work, maybe .030" over pistons, a log style intake with either a 650cfm carter 4 barrel or a holley 500cfm 2 barrel?
I haven't been able to get an answer on that one. not even an opinion! [/quote]
HX-40 with 12cm2 housing. There's your opinion.
An exhaust housing of .63 will need a little bit of a stall for an automatic.
2400 - 2600RPM range.
I have a 12 CM housing, 60-1 wheel on my Syclone 4.3 liter & it would really wake up if I had a converter w/a stall of 2600- 2800.
I ran an 8 CM housing also,it ran great w/the stock 2100 stall converte,but is too small to make good top end power.
I also have a 14 cm housing, but that will need a 2800 stall min to spool up good on a launch scenario.
MBHD
I came accross a turbo manufacturing company web site
http://www.CXRacing.com their turbos are quite cheap! I don't not know if any of them would work for my aplication, though.
Again, I am not looking for serious, just fun. Max of about 350HP?!
I did a search for Tom Lowe... only came up with some surfer. Didn't seem right.
I would look for around a 57 MM compressor wheel & will get back to you on the rest, got to go to work.
MBHD
I was looking at something like this...
GT35 Turbo Charger
High Quality Turbo, Each one is Computer Balanced and Tested.
- 4" Air Inlet
- 2.5" Compressed Air Outlet
- Standard T3 Turbine Housing Flange
- 4-bolt Exhaust Outlet , 3" OD
- Journal Bearing
- 300~500 WHP
- Oil and Water Cooled
- 6-25 PSI Working Pressure
- .70 A/R Compressor
- .63 A/R Turbine
- 57 /82 mm Compressor Wheel
- 57.50 /73.60 mm Turbine Wheel
Works for Many Bigger HP Applications, for 4 to 6 CLYN Engines. Such Civic, Prelude, S13 S14 240SX, Eclipse, Mustang. It can produce 300 to 500 HP, depends on your application and setup.
Think this would do me fine?
Those CXRacing turbo's are those china built super cheapies. Run at your own risk.
http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/This will get you close.
Anything like that would be close, but like 56er said beware of the manufacturer you usually get what you paid for, I use precision turbo in Indiana.
Tom Lowe is an inliner always on this board, (Tlowe#1716) he is the one doing all the dyno work. Ask tom about the bolt pattern on the exhaust manifold so the turbo will bolt on easy. I think a blow through is the way to go.
Harry
Yep, blow through is a better way to go.
That turbo you have a link to has about the correct specs.
But not too sure on the quality of those turbos, seems pretty cheap $ wise.
The Spa manifolds are made w/a T3 bolt pattern unless you have them made for a T4 bolt pattern.
MBHD
Also, you can get an adaptor to put a t4 turbo on a t3 manifold. Dodge diesel guys get them all the time to put HX-40's on a stock manifolds.
Hank
to my understanding There is a issue running the T4 on the T3 a flow issue Or cracking? Due to someones Flawed redesign.
I have not heard of that.
The Spa manifold is pretty thick @ the turbo mounting flange.
Mine is a T3/T4 hybrid turbo that I was going to use on my Syclone but decided not to use it, so I will use it on my L6 in the meantime.
Maybe Tom Lowe knows how thin the Spa manifolds get after drilling & port matching to the T4 flange?
MBHD
That manifold is very thick. Heck it weighs 30+ pounds! There is plenty of meat to machine the T4 flange. Tom
That's one thing I dislike,the weight of the damm thing.
I have been trying to loose weight off my car, but adding all this turbo,manifold, intercooler, tubing & so-on,seems I am not losing any weight.
MBHD
Also, you can get an adaptor to put a t4 turbo on a t3 manifold. Dodge diesel guys get them all the time to put HX-40's on a stock manifolds.
I thought the prefered HX40 was the 16cm^2 T3 flanged one (both the regular and the "super").
I'm sure it's been done though (IIRC I've seen the adapters on fleabay).
The one I had was a non super (6 blade) with a 16cm2 housing that was T4, but there are lots of aftermarket ones out there in both. I got mine off a guy building a sled puller so there's no telling what the story actually was one it.
A friend of mine gave me a Volvo turbocharger and I intend to put it on my 292 in a '32 Chevrolet sedan not for a racer but just to give it a little more power. I know it will be reasonably easy because of the room under hood of the '32. Anybody done anything similar? I expect a blow through will be easiest.
I believe the Volvo turbo A/R on the turbine housing is too small,along w/the turbine wheel.Meaning, it is really going to choke your exhaust down a lot.
A draw through is the easiest to set -up.
Blow through will need just a few more items/mods to work correctly.
Compressor wheel is small also.
They are small so the little Volvo engine does not have much turbo lag.
With a 292,your probably double the engine size the turbo originaly was used for,unless you got it from a Larger Volvo truck.
The turbine housing should say what A/R it is & it most likely is a T3 flange.
There are always cheap turbos w/the correct A/R for your application
just some examples:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/60-1-T3-T...sQ5fAccessorieshttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GODSPEED-...sQ5fAccessorieseven cheaper,small A/R though
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T04E-T3-T...sQ5fAccessoriesProbably can get this for $120 total,they are cheap though
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CIV...sQ5fAccessoriesCheapest w/correct A/R ,compressor wheel ,turbine wheel,w oil line is this one,again chaep quality, but for how little $$ wise, might be worth it if you want to give it a shot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4-T04...sQ5fAccessoriesMBHD
Ok, so I have been reading a lot on the topic. Now I have another question... REALISTICALLY is 4psi boost too much for a stock 250? I am thinking the compression ration is about 8.5:1?!
I also have a friend who suggested the volvo turbo (from a volvo 240). He said they max out about 5-6psi and are used in tons of applications. Also, he mentioned that volvo guys use a turbine off of a 350zx?! which allows for about 18psi boost.
Thoughts?
You really need to look at the specs on that turbo. If the exhaust side is made for a small engine (2.5L) then it will boost into the stratosphere with a 250. Also be a huge restriction for the exhaust. Best to start with the correct parts.
4-6 psi will not hurt a stock engine. Tom
With a properly working/designed wastegate system,,it will control the boost pressure.
But, like I stated earlier,that turbo is too small.
A Buick GN turbo would be a better choice over a Volvo turbo,& guys sell there stock units all the time & upgrade to a larger turbo.
I believe the Volvo turbine housing A/R is .48,thats small & the wheel is really small also. Can you say choke??
Realistically,you can run up to about 8 psi,but not w/the Volvo turbo, it would generate so much extra heat trying to feed the larger 4.1 liter engine it wold most likely detonate quite a bit unless you use methanol injection all the time.
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/ example
Also install one of these nice units.
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/ this unit will save your engine.
MBHD
