I have a 64 Belair that I'm once again looking to improve on. Last summer I swapped the old 230 with a 250, stock everything. I'm looking online and seeing a few builds where a small turbo is used to make 5-6psi on a draw through system. That's what I'm looking for here in this build.

Background on the car: th350 swapped with a B&M Shift Kit, stock rearend with shortened driveshaft. Stock brakes. I will be replacing front end bushings/suspension parts this spring. The frame is just as solid as a 50 year old Chevy from MN can get.

The engine has stock parts as far as internals and externals. YouTube shows a few videos with Clifford intakes and Offy exhausts, but there are alot a few videos of hodge podge builds utilizing stock externals/externals.

Now my question: for practicality sake, how efficient is a bone stock 250 inline making 5psi? Is it necessary for internal/external upgrades? What budget am I looking at? Not looking to take it to the track, just a weekender/cruiser. Car sits 7 months out of the year. It's kinda got the rat-rod theme.

Thanks in advance.

Look @ the last 2 pgs of this topic.

https://www.inliners.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=72483#Post72483

1978-82ish Buick regal turbo set-up
1981 turbo Trans Am turbo set-up will work.

Try & get a complete set-up w/a carb.

http://imageshack.us/f/233/p1090134s.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/f/831/p1090133os.jpg/

I convinced a guy here to turbo his stock engine. He even boosted up to 15 psi. Long story....

Running low boost like 4-5 psi will be no problem on a stock engine. Just don't let it detonate.

MBHD

I'm debating going that route or a T3 route. There is a T3 locally for sale on CL, cold side is a .60Ar Hot side is .48 (from mid 80's Ford). Also unsure if I want to upgrade to a milder cam.

From what I've gathered, the project should cost less than $600 which is feasible for my budget.

The T3 you have locally w/a .48 sounds like it is for a 4 cyl engine, way too small turbine wheel I am thinking.

The simplest & cheapest would be to find what I mentioned previously, for a draw through set-up.

A blow through, will require, more work, more parts, & more money.

MBHD

I am leaning more towards blow through. I have no problem fabricating stuff. One question I have that is rather unclear is the carb. Boucher modified a Holley 500 but he instructions seem vague. How difficult is it?

I think Boucher's carb is a 350 Holley.

If you want someone who knows about blowing through 2 bbl Holleys, talk w/ turbo6 here on the BB.

Snowman (here, on the BB) modded his 500 2bbl, not sure if he got it all dialed in though.

MBHD

Yeah, read throught most of Snowman's thread and tried to separate what didn't work from what did. I'll be PM'ing him to see what he has to offer.

The more I read into this the more confident I can get it all dialed in pretty quickly. My only setback is a welder, but that's the least of my concerns.

Found a turbo kit for a Regal on eBay, same one that JStew is buying. Also watching some auctions for a Holley 500 on eBay. Should be a fun spring.

The single most important item is some form of boost referenced timing retard. Easiest way is to use a MSD BTM ignition.

rattle a stock engine with cast pistons & the fix will cost a lot more thanthe BTM box.

I saw in Snowman's thread what can happen from that, lol.

I am assembling my parts list. Please add anything I am missing or something you suggest.

t3/t4 turbo (size to be established later)
wastegate (with modified actuator to adjust boost level)
Holley 2bbl 500cfm (with rebuild kit or remanufactured)
1bbl to 2bbl adapter plate
AEM Wideband
Carb Hat
HEI
BOV
Some sort of modified Fuel Pump or aftermarket electrical pump/regulator assembly
Intercooler (optional, but suggested)
Timing retard system (will need clarification on that)

The system will use completely stock internals and externals (with the exception of the carb) and will never see more than 6 psi. In the future (when I am done with college, working towards my BA) I will be building my old 230 with the plan of transferring this setup over and running 15-20 psi with accommodating upgrades.

I should point out now that I am fairly new to Forced induction on a Carburator. I have assisted with a few FI'd EFI setups in the past year, however getting the AFR's right without a computer to help tune is what I forsee being the biggest issue for me. I've rebuilt my the 1bbl on my old 230i a few years ago so I know how to do that, it's just getting it tuned right for the FI that I am worried about.

Anyone know how to get ahold of turbo6? He does not accept PM's on the forums here.

Check in at Turbo6 profile, and find his websiteadress, you can contact him there!

He doesnt have one listed.

I would propose the idea of using a 600 holley 4 bbl double pumper vs the 500 2 bbl.
Reasons:
1. smaller primary blades than the 500 (500's are as big as a 750 4 bbl)better for drivability.
2. More tunability

I used the 500 2bbl on the dyno 250 only because I did not own a small double pumper carb.

Sorry I haven't been on lately, I recieved my new Kirby head and am working on my 37 chevy with a new intake with carbs, and new exhaust etc.

Tom is correct a small holley 4bbl would work better more driveable, with such low boost on a blow through all you need is to get the mixture correct and use plastic floats that will not crush, no other mods needed, but you need to boost reference the fuel pump to keep the fuel pressure at 6 lbs plus boost pressure. You can run stock timming no blowoff valves etc.

On a draw through you would need to reference the power valve but not on a blow through. Run a pipe from the compressor to the carb and floor it!

Good Luck

Harry

Thanks for the replies gang.

I have a slew of parts in my eBay watched list. Wondering if there is an adapter plate for the 4bbl to stock intake manifold. Clifford has one listed on their page but I'm not sure if it's for their manifold or a stock one.

http://www.cliffordperformance.net/Merch...egory_Code=C250

I also wish I could find a pair of headers that exit near each other to fab a collector and then swing it back to the turbo. I see in Snowman's thread he has the 292 exhaust manifold, but wouldnt headers be more efficient/sound better?

Anyway, I should start buying some things this week so I will keep in touch!

Standard headers will have a short life, the heat will tear them up.
Best to get a 4 bbl type intake, whichever suits your budget better. Clifford or Offenhauser.

New 292 3 bolt manifolds can be had on ebay. They are made for the agricultural applications. But still the same as the big trucks used.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-John-Deere-E...=item337a3940e2
compare it to this one at a higher price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250-4-1-292-GM-C...f437175&vxp=mtr

If I had it to do over again, I would pony up and get a 292 manifold and an Offy. The 292 outlet is not only larger (2.5") but it also exits in a more desirable location / angle for the up-pipe mounting.

Just my two pennies.

Boucher'

The 292 exhaust is a direct fit to the 250 head? My trial build will be using a stock intake and exhaust manifold only because of budget limitations, but the future holds plans for an aftermarket set of manifolds, and I like the price on the John Deere 292 exhaust manifold if i can use it on my 250....

Yes, it is a direct fit on a 250 head.

Cast iron manifolds usually can take the heat of a turbo.

Unless you are really trying to get every last bit of HP out of a turbocharged engine, the cast iron manifold will work great.

The SPA manifold will bolt a turbo on directly.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230-250-292-Chev...a1ad5a5&vxp=mtr

Depending on what chassis you are putting it in, the SPA manifold is an excellent choice I.M.O.

MBHD

I'm watching that SPA manifold to see how much it goes for. I'm curious to see if it will go for cheaper than a 292 manifold + preturbo stainless exhaust piping in a few bends. Plus saving myself the headache of welding and shaping the preturbo.

Harry,
lets see some pics when you get a chance.
Thx

MBHD

Don't suppose anyone has a.side by side comparison of the 292 and 250 exhaust manifolds? My crossmember is huge and with the 250 exit/angle it looks damn near impossible to get a good routing to the turbo. Or perhaps if anyone has sone engine nay shots for a mid 60's full size car it would be good to reference off that.

Update:

Clifford 6=8 4bbl intake is on the way.



$250 + shipping and it includes two chrome side covers, which I dont really need but was something I wanted to have.

Also bidding on a 4bbl Holley 600cfm 80457-2 with electric choke. Never had an electric choke carb before, anything I should know?

After the Holidays I'll really start buying stuff. I'm just jumping on parts now that are good deals. What is the average retail on that SPA manifold?

I believe you will need a double pumper, not a vac secondary carb. With boost the secondaries will not open. They use vacuum to open.

Cheapest place get a SPA turbo manifold.
http://www.designengineering.com/categor...rbo-manifold-t4

They also offer a T3 version.

I always wanted to use these http://stoveboltengineco.com/catalog/store/#!/~/product/category=412417&id=1395980 & hook up a turbo.

I had asked Tom if he knows anyone who has done it, @ the time he said no & the manifolds should be nice & durable for turbocharging.
Just a thought.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spa-Turbo-Manifo...0cf9cd4&vxp=mtr
$474 or make offer & free shipping.

MBHD

Thanks for the response on the Carb, Tom. I appreciated your insight as I wasn't sure which 600cfm to use. There are many more carbs out there than I thought!

I'm leaning away from the SPA manifold. Seeing a few more build pictures of the preturbo piping, I am getting comfortable with the idea of welding it myself. Plus, I cant really fathom $500 for a piece of cast iron, no matter how nice and easy it makes the job. Remember, this is a low budget build

Hank, my main concern with those cast headers is running them together for preturbo piping. Seems like it'd be a PITA to weld the collector and bring it up to the turbo. I have very limited space between the side of the block, the upper control arm, and where I'd like the turbo to mount. This is in a 64 Chevy Belair, so space is limited, or so it seems.

Once I get the turbo I'll mock something up and look at my options.

Thanks gang.

Here is the car, just so we get an idea of what it's going into Plus I just realized this thread doesnt have many pics! No one likes a thread without images!

Theres several mods you can do to a Holley DP to make them more blow through friendly. Check out Hanger 18 Modifications.

Alright, got my eyes on a Holley 600DP 4776-3 with a Mech Choke. Has front jet of 66 and rear of 73, and from a 351w, obviously in need of a rebuild. Would this suffice?

It's one of the few on CL that has the choke plate in tact. Wondering why I see so many without the choke plate.

From your pics, it looks like a 292 exhaust manifold has plenty of room to fit an up-pipe to a turbo.
Snowman put a 292 manifold on a (IIRC) 68 Buick Special "A" body & his has less space.

People think the choke plate limits airflow ,so they remove it & in warm weather country, most do not need a choke if you let the engine warm up for a bit before moving.

Problem sometimes w/used carbs, the throttle shaft has a lot of play & when blowing through one w/shaft plays, it can make a mess with fuel comming out of the shafts.

I would run the turbo closer to the radiator support or at least even with the front of your engine.

MBHD

Hank,
Thanks for the reply. The only issue with missing choke plate would be rough cold starts, correct? I'd have to let the engine warm up (which I usually do anyway) before putting it into gear? If so, then that really opens up the options on ebay. Either way, replacement choke plates could be had online, I'm assuming.

Alex,

you got it.

I am sure if you need a choke plate they could be had.

A lot of people will cut off the complete choke assy, never being able to install a choke ever again.
Example: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http...Q9QEwAw&dur=265

Goodluck on your search for your parts.

MBHD

Picked up a set of new Clifford long tubes off Jalopy for $100. Even though I can't use them I couldn't miss the deal. Beats paying $300 for them, plus I have that 230 on a stand awaiting a future build.

You got one at bat and one in the hole! Love it

It was a good day today



Long tube headers, should fit fine if I decide a turbo is too much work.







Oil feed line and BOV.



Downpipe and flange with gasket.



Clifford 6-8 aluminum manifold with chrome side covers. Got this for a hell of a deal.



All in all, I am happy with this load. The turbo seemed like a good choice since it wont be running much boost (5-8psi) and I will be using stock internals. The unit itself seems like a good piece, so I am satisfied per cost.

Not delivered yet but on the way.



600cfm Holley Double Pumper list 84010-2

Still at it.

Got the wastegate set to open at 7 psi. Picked the location and orientation of the turbo for the engine bay. Purchased the turbo filter. It's a 3in spectre from AutoZone. Have the wastegate dump pipe tacked. Just waiting for some more money to purchase materials for the pre turbo piping. Figured out tonight what ill need for materials.

Thinking of going ahead and buying the 292 manifold. Reasoning being is that I want the up pie to fit straight (not an angle like most I've seen) and my math tells me a 3.25 pipe of pipe pressedat an oval would be needed. Well, I'd rather not be that guy to go from a 3.25 to 2.25. That'd require 3 or 4 adapters and a tacky look. So 2 adapters seems easier and would look better. Unless someone can suggest a way to get the up pipe to the turbo with a straight plane mount. Hopefully that makes sense.

Also polished the carb bowls as I wait for my rebuild kit. Had a leaky float otherwise I would have soaked it in carb cleaner and used it without a rebuild. Debating on getting a spare 2 bbl 500 cfm in case I can't tune the 4bbl well enough.

Lastly, thinking about dropping the Belair 3 inches. Anyone have experience with this?

Alex,

never heard about the specs on your turbo you bought.
Got a link to it or specs on the compressor wheel inducer & exducer measurements, same for turbo wheel ind/exd?

Turbine housing A/R ?
Turbine housing exit hole size for downpipe? DP size?

Should be fun!

MBHD

Forgot to post the specs. Got busy with finals.

.57 trim
3" inlet
2" outlet
50 a/r compressor
.62 turbine

It's the "set" found on eBay which compares to the turbo on the Montes. It came with the turbo, wastegate, downpipe, short oil feed line, and blow off valve. Everything appears to be pretty good quality. I also purchased the internal wastegate conversion, which i have set via bench test to 7psi. I'll set it closer to 4 psi once its installed.

This one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-Hybrid-Tur...f0919d0&vxp=mtr

MBHD

That's the one.

Alright, figured it out. It's going to take a 2.75" id to 2.5" od then a 2.5" id to 2.25"od which will then be welded to the exhaust up pipe. This will allow ne to use the flange that came with the kit.

Also having ny buddy clean up the ports on the exhaust manifold. He does a lot of pnp work for throttle bodies on boosted cars so im excited to see what he does on the old bird.

Nice!
Post some pics of your progress.

MBHD

Got the exhaust manifold on the bench. Cleaned it up a bit. The VHT Hight Temp paint I had on it was starting to turn to dust and flake off. Cleaned it in the parts washer tub. Cleaned some of the casting marks. Cut the two studs for the intake riser mating off. Set the heat riser to be in the always open position. Will tack it in place when I get the welder and its a bit warmer out. Hope I didn't mess up by removing the studs.

Taking it tommorrow to my buddy to do a little pnp on the exhaust ports.



Also found out I can recycle my exhaust piping from my DD exhaust system. I upgraded to a stainless steel 3" exhaust on my 01 Eclipse, leaving the 2.25" exhaust that I forgot to get recycled.

Use what ya got!

Cool, but confused, are you using 2.25" exhaust?

W/a turbo, you do not want any flow restrictions, going from a 2.5" exit from the manifold to 2.25" up pipe to the turbo?

Should keep that up pipe 2.5" to the turbo.

Better to go w/a 3" tubing for the down pipe & the rest of the exhaust system.


MBHD

MBHD

Hank,

I have a 250 stock manifold. 2.25 for that, right?

Ok,
I had thought you had a 292 manifold w/the 2.5" outlet.
My mistake.

MBHD

where are you guys finding the 2.5 manifolds? i was looking into an spa but being that my truck is lowered(extreme) clearance issues could pose a big problem

I found them on RockAuto for a decent price around $150. Just had to search for the 292 in later Chevy Trucks. Otherwise on eBay the tractor manifolds were around $200. The only different is casting marks, really.

Do you have a part number:)

Don't you have a 292? Your Sig says you do. The stock outlet on a 292 is 2.5

Josh,
I think a 292 with carry the SPA manifold and a T04 turbo. Remember the 292 is much taller than a 250.
The best pricing for the SPA manifold is at http://www.designengineering.com/catalog/spa-turbo-usa/turbo-manifolds/chevy

I can do measurements of a 292 with Parts on if needed.

Yes i do and i was measuring it and the throat of the outlet is onlt 2" if you measure edge to edge where the doughnut would sit its 2.5 is that were you guys are measuring from i was confused 8|.

And i was looking at some pictures of my truck its a custome fron member and engine mounts i think its high enough now that i've seen a few of these part in real life

A tom speaking of parts hows my order coming8D

Ebay is selling the Fergusson Massey John Deere 292 cast manifolds as low as $149 buy it now with free shipping.

With a few searches to my photo relm i think i should e able to clear with an spa mainifold i'll post a pic later on

I bought a used 292 manifold today and I measured the same dimensions as lowboygmc. 2" outlet hole, but a chamfered area around it is 2.5"

Tom

Mr hot rod6 can mail me a manifold to az from him for 30 smackers less:0

clearance whatcha think?

Any progress on your exhaust manifold there Alex?

Does it have the 3 studs for mounting a flange or does it have 2?

MBHD

No my buddy who is doing this in his spare time has been busy with paid projects so its on the backburner for at least a week. Apparently I'm not the only one working on projects this time of year.

year round project building is goal or addiction

Three studs....

Wow that is laying LOW alright!

Slow and steady.

Tapped fuel pump for boost. Carb is ready. Fitting the intake / exhaust today. Hot side and cold side are ordered. Less than $100 from mandrelbends.com.

Just waiting on money...

For boost reference correct? How much boost are you planning to run?

Isn't there a rule of thump for psi o fuel for psi of boost?

Keep up thegood work!

Usually 1:1 increase (1psi boost for 1 psi fuel pressure increase) on a carbureted application, so the fuel level in the float bowl remains constant.

I haven't seen a rising rate regulator (more than 1 psi fp: psi boost) on a carb, only on fuel injection).

Mostly doing it to stay safe and make sure fuel stays in the bowls. Since I'm using a larger carburator (600cfm 4bbl) I don't want to chance not having fuel in the carb when I need it. I don't plan on going over 6psi with my internals w/o an intercooler, and to my understanding the stock fuel pump will only push ~4 psi.

Will mains from one block work with another when machining?

Are you meaning, can any cap just be put on to perform machining operations and then the correct caps be put on for assembly. Or can any cap be used to replace an unserviceable one on a block.

Unserciveable one i have two blocks kinda mixin and matching

the block i am using only had 6 of them #6 was missing and i was curious if i could take #^ from the other block and substitute it..


and Alex did you get your exhaust manifold back yet? curious to see that beaut

Usually, a machine shop will need to sort thru 4 or 5 caps to find one that
will be close enough to work.

So I should bring all of the caps from the other block and let them find the closest fit?

Also when getting bigger valves installed those are like listings and are needed prior to machining?

My apologies for the Dunbar and frequent questions I have rebuilt a few engines just never hopped one up

Are like pistons*

Yes, it would a good idea to take all the caps and let them select the best one out of the bunch. As far as the head and block is concerned, its best to let the shop clean everything up first before you order parts, that way they can tell you the bore size to order your pistons and so forth. As far as valve size goes, you need to make sure all your parts and modifications complement each other based on your intended use for the vehicle.

Check the cleaned and magna fluxed all parts block head and crank were good crank needs a regrind i was going to order tlowes pistons(292 40 over) his turbo cam valve train and reconditioned connecting rods with arpbolts

any word on the exhaust manifold alex?

No updates yet. It was ungodly cold last week so he never got around to it. His shop is unheated. Should be done soon.

Any wofd on other parts or pieces of the build?

The other parts are sitting in my ebay watched list, lol. I need to save up a few bucks before I buy them. Otherwise, all that's holding me back is money and cold weather.

On a side note, how do I remove the Oil PSI sensor from the side of the block?

Dang that money thing! About as vexatiousas a v8;)

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=vexatiousas

It was supposed to read about as vexatious as, not vexatiousas

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=vexatious

I'll teach you english and you teach me turbos deal?

How does one remove the oil psi sensor from the side of the block?

It should only be threaded into the block. Simply unscrew it.

tom got my parts today haven't opened every thing but its all here safe! thanks so much

alex any word?

HEY! Today was a good day indeed. Got the exhaust manifold back from my guy. He did a great job opening up the outlet to 2.5" so that should help with flow. Plus, he's cheap. He only charged me $25 for what seemed to be a tedious job. Being used to aluminum he wasn't expecting how much longer it would take. LOL.

Purchased my oil feed/return materials. Got it as a kit from eBay for less than $65 and it includes all materials I'll need. I plan on running a T fitting so I can include a gauge in the oil feed to keep that monitored.

Also ordered a 65k HEI from eBay.

Found a Sun Pro Boost gauge on eBay for a decent price. Still watching the UEGO to see if it goes cheaper soon.

Lastly, the preturbo piping is on it's way. 2.5" 180* with a 2 bolt flange and gasket from mandrel-bends.com. Total price was less than $50 shipped. Not too bad, IMO. I'm really nervous how my preturbo is goin to fit. My upper control arm is gonna be a pain in the ass. It's going to be a tight fit.

Also looking at converting to an electric fan setup and replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. Electric pullers are pretty inexpensive on ebay, and a particular 3 row aluminum radiator is fairly inexpensive as well. Since I'll be making a bit more unhood head, I'm thinking it'd be a good idea.

Oh, and also watching this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111018167796?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

Thats great alot of progress! I have that same hat good quality was thinking about maybe anodizing it but i don't know yet

Today was another good day. Things are coming along. Got another 8" of snow on Sunday so that kind of put a crimp in my mood. Spring was almost here!

Anyway, got a lot of stuff over the past week (see last post). The HEI is a monster of a part. Surprised at it's size! Replacing that was a little more difficult than I expected. I need to replace the ignition wire (wasn't expecting that) per instructions. For those who dont know, their is a resistance wire from the firewall to the stock coil. Without removing that wire, the car wont run right at idle (warm). So I still need to replace that wire, otherwise the HEI is installed and set as best as I can set it while the car still isn't in running form.





Also got the oil feed system established. What does everyone use for sealing the thread on the fittings? I've never done this before, so I just used plumbers tape on the threads. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me?

Also got a closer look at my pre-turbo piping. It's going to be VERY tough to get the pipe right. To be honest, it's the thing that scares me the most about this whole project. The Upper control arm is scary close to the exhaust outlet. I'm very impressed with the quality of the pipe though. It's 16ga mild steel from mandrel-bends.com It was only 13.50 for the 180* bend and they shipped it 2 day. No complaints their.





Here are my Boost and Water Temp gauge. The Temp gauge is electrical since I plan on swapping over to a pull electric fan. Also should note I got a great deal on a Wideband from a Honda forum for $120 shipped. Only used for 5,000 miles and comes with everything a new setup would have. I should have that next week sometime.



I'm on spring break from classes starting next week. I plan on getting the pre-turbo mocked up and installed.

Does anyone have any ideas for sealing up the gap between intake and exhaust manifold? I have the Clifford so it doesn't use the heat riser. I've managed to grind the exhaust mani down so I can mount the exh/int mani's on the head, but there is still a little gap between the two. Should I get a gasket and hope it seats? Or hope I can find a welder to braze the gap shut? I need some ideas. There is definitely enough room for a leak.

I believe it was scott who said not to usetephlon tape don't want anyof that to get into the turbo may e a liquid tephlon on the threads sweet pics she is really comming along

Started mocking the up-pipe.

It didn't go as planned. I was hoping to run a simple 90* bend (like Snowman did) but that wasn't the case. The control arm and frame were just too gosh-darn close! So I had to make some adjustments. It consists of a 180* cut close to the bends, leading to a 90* which leads to another 90*. I had to recycle the 2.5" piping from the wastegate that came with the turbo and another 90* bend from my Eclipse's original exhaust. The top isn't cut straight, but I'll worry about aligning that after I get the other pieces welded and ready. Should be this weekend for that. The cuts were made easy thanks to the purchase of a metal chop saw. A worthy investment for anyone who welds!

I also got my UEGO.


Should be getting my HEI wires here soon.

Seen duct tape fix a lot of thig but never a turbo "&" pipe just messing man can't wait to see that welded up ad that engine have a nice color of paint on it!

Keep it up stay inline!

Got the up pipe mostly welded together. Still need to finish it up and clean up the piece of sheetmetal I used up top. But I wasn't able to finish before calling it a day, so I attached the turbo to get some pics taken for inspiration to get back.

Note: It's not level because the up-pipe isn't bolted all the way to the exhaust manifold.







I still need to do some grinding, then wrap it in heat wrap before it's done. Do you guys recommend painting it with anything? I don't want the welds to rust under the heat wrap.

It was my first time welding since replacing the floorboards in my old 64 Nova when I was 16. It was tough mostly because I was using 3 different types of metal, 16 gauge mild, 16 gauge stainless, and 16 gauge mild that was from my old Eclipse Exhaust. It was tough not burning the weld through beyond repair.

Other than that, it's all really starting to come together.

Looking good.
Be sure you do not have any loose or ready to come loose welds, or pieces of metal,, those will be injested by the turbine wheel & will damage it.

Heat wrap will speed up the process of rusting out your up-pipe & the welds if they are not a high grade of stainless. Stainless 409 grade rust' 304,316 etc are better grades.321 being the best,,, but is very pricey.

I would paint it w/a high temp black spray paint. I use it on my Syclone turbos & it works fine.

MBHD

I never had much luck when going to an electric fan/s (I never had the correct combo)
Do your research & get the correct combo of a radiator & fans, those cheap ebay fans most likely will not work too well. Electric fans pull a lot of amperage & if you do not have a good enough alternator, most likely the alternator will go pretty quickly.

You simply do not add fans w/out a shroud, otherwise the only area doing the cooling is where the fan is located, hope that makes sense.

Just a thought,,, I would go w/a larger mechanical fan w/a clutch, less problems, they work great & get a clutch w/an external thermal spring on the outside of the clutch, those are the better heavy duty type. Cost more but are more efficient.
Example: http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=pics...selectedIndex=9

MBHD

Forgot to ask, are you going to use a intercooler?
They are inexpensive on Ebay along w/a piping kit.
There are really cheap quality pipes & clamps so do some research or post it here, a kit or intercooler you are thinking of purchasing. We can help you out.

MBHD

Not this summer. Goal is to get it running at no more than 6psi. With that said, as often as I drive the thing I don't anticipate the urge to go higher.

Got my return feed drilled in the pan. It's a 7/8" hole. I used one of those Irwin Unibit hole saw's to cut it. Worked amazing. I'm never wasting money on carbide hole sale bit's again.







Cleaned the hole with brake cleaner and a wire brush attachment for a drill. Sealed with O-Rings on each side of the pan, with gasket maker (400* proof). Should seal up nicely. Also redid the oil feed lines with the same gasket sealer to remove the risk of the teflon coming loose and entering the oil.

Hey alex just want to say i love your build always following it!

As for the tephlone i know you redis it but what i use is kimblemidwest liquid tephlon is is good to 500 degrees doesn't tear or rip and defffinatly doesn't clog use it all the time on our big diesels maybe spread it around to all the great inliners out there:)

Stay in line.


Keep up the good work!

Why do oil pans have to be some goddamn difficult!!

Today didn't go quiet as planned. Took nearly 3 hours to pull the stock pan, only to take another hour before I unsucessfully got the modified pan in. It wouldnt move into place. I have no idea why. Anyone have ideas as to why a 230 pan wouldn't fit a 250 pan? Otherwise, I'm stumped. I'll modify the 250 pan tomorrow and give it another shot.

In the mean time, I'll wait for my gash across my hand to heal up. Damn oil pump.

Got pics of the 2 pans?

Sadly, I do not.

The only noticeable difference I saw was in regards to the front of the pan. The 250 had no holes for bolts, whereas the 230 had them. The gasket I had for it was for the 250 (no holes) so I just went with it. Laying on my back under the car trying to wiggle it in the same way the 250 pan came out, and it wouldn't budge. Even by completely remove the oil pump sending unit, there wasn't enough room. I couldn't see where it was binding, got frustrated, and quit for the day.

The only thing I can imaging is the layout of the pan is moderately different. Although, being that the 230 pan was what came in the car stock, I can't image why it wouldn't bolt onto the 250 block, being they are the same casting.

I don't know. Going at again Wednesday to see if I can't get it situated.

I'll be in touch.

Here's a thought for you...you said something about keeping your welds from rusting. I'm working on some headers for my 250 and I plan to coat the welds with 3M weld through primer. It should stand the heat. I've never done it before, but seemed logical that it would work and it's silver colored.

Thanks for the idea. I went with Grill paint. It's got a 1200* threshhold and is cheaper than header paint. Also says it's withstands scratches and nicks. I'll let you know how that goes for me.

Took some pictures of the oil pans today. I'll post them later.

For the record, the 230 and 250 pans are considerably different. The sump for the 230 is shorter in the back, and the drain plug is in a different location on the pan as well (front vs rear). This is most likely the reason it didn't fit the other day when I tried installing it.

I drilled a hole in the 250 pan, applied the gasket and some adhesive, then attempted to install the modified 250 pan. I couldn't get it mated without the gasket falling out of place. My only choice now is to pull the motor.

It shouldn't be much of a chore considering I already have 2/3 of the components removed or unhooked. All that's left is the trans and she's coming out with the motor. I need to barrow my friends lift, and that will have to wait until next week.

did you try sticking it to the block first?

i know my gasket is like 4 pieces

Isn't that original pan dented in the rear to clear your steering?

Here are side by side comparisons. The 230 pan being the dirtier of the two, with the 250 pan being the painted one.

64fourdoor/Alex,
keep the faith man.
I'm finally getting back on track and looking at your build up has seriously helped get me re-motivated.

Thanks,
Stu

Bump!


Whats new alex?

Ran outta money!

Hoping to get back to the shop this weekend to tinker. Everything is sitting next to the car on a shelf awaiting install. I'll update when I get to the next step

Thanks guys.

Well, this summer will start off NA.

I ran into some problems, and long story short my DD needed a new motor. Stupid interference engines! Timing belt snapped prematurely, resulting in bent valves in 2/6 cylinders.

So the Chevy has been on the backburner. All the money I had saved for coldside and downpiping has been expunged. I was planning on 3" piping all the way back to the rear axle before splitting to dual 2.5" Smitty Glasspacks.

Luckily, I purchased those long-tubes back in December. So they are going on with the Clifford intake and the 4bbl. The HEI is staying in too. I'm also planning on using the turbo-hat and fabricating a CAI with it. The motor is gonna be rappin' here by mid-week!

okay, I lied. Car will be turbo'd, god-damnit!

The headers didn't fit. Devastated and planning on returning it to stock, I test fit everything for the turbo again. After that, I noticed a good chunk of exhaust from my old car just sitting there, collecting dust. 2.5" pipe with a 90* mandrel bend and a 3" resonator. Feeling motivated, I cut it in pieces and began test fitting the downpipe and mocking everything up, and by golly it's going to work!



It's perfect. Clears the throttle bracket by 2" and only comes close to the intake manifold's rear runner. I'll fabricate a shield for between the downpipe and intake so it wont affect intake temps too much.

Also ordered 3 45* couplers. I'll be using steel tubing between the couplers, with lips spot welded to prevent slippage. Debating on adding a pipe for the BOV. o2 bung is on the way.

Progress pic before I leave. I have a 90* fitting for the oil feed, so the visible crimp there will be null. You can see the route of the charge piping. Choke horn has been milled off so it wont interfere with airflow.

Go baby gooo!!!

Damn that's awesome, Made my morning!

What carb hat is that?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blow-Through-Car...=p2047675.l2557