I have a 250 in my Camaro with a 2 speed powerglide. It's rather boring and the gearing is way too tall.
I kept thinking I would go with a 200r4 but the more I think about it the more I like rowing my way up to speed. This is supposed to be my fun car and, well, I want it to be fun!
So knowing all that which transmission should I be looking at? Assuming the rear end gearing will change and an Eaton posi will be going in (unless you guys recommend something else?).
This is this winter's project. This time last year I said I'd do the intake, 4bbl and exhaust. If I announce I'm going to do it I'm putting myself on notice to follow through.
This obviously changes the column (column shifter now: will need to make it a non-shifter... could temporarily just remove the shifter lever but eventually I'll want it to look stock), adds a man-peddle, and probably changes lots of other things.
Anyone here do this conversion before that can chime in?
Keeping the 250? Do a T-5 swap. Plenty around, inexpensive, and will be able to take a 250 unless you start getting some heavy modifications.
With the car being a '68 Camaro you should have no trouble finding the parts to do it, or people who have done it before. Probably one of the most modified vehicles ever. A few Google searches will lead you well on your way, and any T-5 related questions can probably be handled by a few members on here.
I agree with Mitch, for fun & not too much money a T-5 would be a descent choice.
IIRC, The world class T-5 trans are supposed to be a bit stronger than a standard T-5.
But,, I believe a T-5 install will require a different drive shaft length. 26 spline clutch disc?
Don't use a Borg Warner T50 trans, they are pretty weak, does not shift quickly & also requires a different length driveshaft. They were used in Chevy Monzas with 4 cylinders I think.
I broke 2 of those pretty quickly & I was not making a whole lot of power either @ that time.
I also think that a T-5 would be a good fit. There is some good information in the Tech Tips on this site. Make sure you choose the right ratios and one that bolts to your engine.
My vote would be for a Richmond 5 speed. Non overdrive. Use a 2.73 rear and drive the snot out of it. That is what I have in my wagon. I have 2.56 gears. Too tall for coming off the line. Ask MShaw, I gave him a ride recently.
You are building up this 250 and it will start to make some power. The torque rating on a T5 is not that high. I believe it was around 300 ft lbs. The Richmond is 450.
If you put in a T5, you may be replacing them if there are problems. This makes your cost go up.
starting digging around on prices and, well, lets go a bit cheaper guys...
What can I get out of a yard, clean up and slap in? I'd like to try to stay closer to the cost of a 200r4 swap. It can be a few dollars more but not 2 grand more like a Richmond swap appears to be (trans + bell + clutch peddle + misc... $3k)
I'd like to do the whole thing for around $1,200-ish if possible.
When it comes to fun driving I have always been a fan of the Borg Warner 3 speed Overdrive transmissions. The T-86 with The R10 OD like the one going in my roadster is not that strong but I think it will handle the 4 cylinder I'm building. I'm using it because the floor shift top plate from a Jeep T90 bolts on. The T-85 used in Studebaker Hawks and Ford pickups is rugged and the OD on them is the R11. A Hurst floor shift conversion works well. There is some wiring to do and they are not easy to find but they are out there even on eBay. I don't know what else they came in but evidently there is a Chevy application too. There is also a Saganaw 3 speed with a BW OD. T85 OD wiring BW OD 3 Speed OD
Did some lunchtime reading and the T5 WC's that were put into 88-92 305 Camaros looks like the right one. Same spline and should bolt right in. I'm sure I can find one somewhere in a yard on blocks out in the country that some redneck would sell me for a couple cases of beer. The good stuff. Like Miller or Bud. Heck I can probably get darn near the whole setup that way: trans, bell housing, peddles, linkage, shifter, etc, etc.
Here's some reading. Extensive T5 info on my website. I have a V8 Camaro T5 and a 250ci in my 1965 C10 truck. Love it. Drive it and don't abuse it. I agree that a T5 will not stand up to much abuse.
Here's some reading. Extensive T5 info on my website. I have a V8 Camaro T5 and a 250ci in my 1965 C10 truck. Love it. Drive it and don't abuse it. I agree that a T5 will not stand up to much abuse.
Even a WC like you have?
I really don't want to go to a T56 due to price. At that point I think I'll stick with the 200R4 option.
Here's some reading. Extensive T5 info on my website. I have a V8 Camaro T5 and a 250ci in my 1965 C10 truck. Love it. Drive it and don't abuse it. I agree that a T5 will not stand up to much abuse.
Even a WC like you have?
I really don't want to go to a T56 due to price. At that point I think I'll stick with the 200R4 option.
I also chose the T5 because of budget. The T56 will hold up to abuse but I couldn't justify the price since I was putting it behind a stock 250ci. I opted for a 1983 V8 Camaro NWC T5 because it had a 0.73 OD gear which is perfect for my 3.73 rear diff. I originally bought (and then sold) a V8 Camaro WC T5 with a 0.63 OD gear because I realized that the 0.63 gear would probably make my engine lug on hills and thus I'd do a lot of down shifting into 4th. The V6 Camaro WC T5 from 1988-1992 should have a 0.73 OD gear. They don't have a close ratio like the V8 versions but they are still the best option for a DD with a mostly stock L6. The V6 T5 will have a 14 spline input shaft which can easily be converted to a 10 spline shaft and then use a standard Chevy style 10 spline clutch disc. No adapter plate is needed.
The 1993 V6 S10 has a WC T5 with the same gearbox as the V6 Camaro but the shifter is more favorable for a bench seat car.
If you look seriously at a T5, make sure it has a Muncie style bolt pattern on the case and make sure to calculate RPMs in each gear so that you actually have a 5th gear that is useful with your particular rear diff and tire size. I use this online RPM calculator.
I am putting a TKO600 behind my hopped up 292. TKO600 is rated at 600 ft pounds so you can throw everything that 250 will give at it and you'll still be pampering this tranny. lol I got mine for $2450 shipped to my door! I bought for the tight shift pattern and tight gearing.
Did your TKO600 come with the mid-shift kit so it works with a bench seat? Or is that extra? $2600 was outside my budget. My T5 cost $450 but I rebuilt it myself. That doesn't include the clutch kit.
No, the mid shifter aka "lightening" shifter is separate. I was talking to some guys and they told me that using a 3 inch forward shift lever would allow the shifter to remain where it is. Still have yet to find that out when I go to install everything. The last price I saw for the mid-shifter was $400.
That is what I am planning to use in my project with a 292. Should be plenty strong, they were using them behind Chevy 1/2ton trucks with V8s. The overdrive should be nice. Plus the big advantage in my eyes is the hydraulic throwout. Which to me means easier installation. Similar in size to a powerglide/Th350. Only drawback would be the electronic speedo.... but I think you can now get gauges and adapters that allow you to convert to other speedos.... or just use GPS.
They are pretty cheap. I paid $175 for mine in used condition and see them fairly regularly for $250 or so on craigslist. They made/make different performance shifters for them as well.
Check the gear ratios on the NV3500's. 1st gear may be way too steep for a car. Here is ratio's from a website. Finally found it for you the only ratio difference between the s/10 and fullsize tranny is the fullsize has the .73 or .78 5th .
1 4.02 2 2.32 3 1.40 4 1.00 5 0.83 R 3.74.
Note the drop from 2nd to 3rd is gonna be noticeable lol (better have some torque)
How about an old fashioned 2 groove Saginaw 4 speed. You can usually pick them up for 200 250. A rebuild kit runs 120. New forks might be 80 or so. About 450 rebuilt at the top end if you do it yourself (the sag is a fairly straight forward rebuild and good for a first time builder). The 2 groove comes with a 3:11 first gear. As for strength, not terrible. You will hear lots of opinions but if you are not doing big giant hole shots and slicks, it's a pretty reliable trans. I just ran through the sag in my 57, and ran it down the strip at the trifive nationals this past weekend, 261 block, 302 gmc rods, venolia pop up Pistons, Schneider cam with 492 lift, 280 duration, weiand intake, a pair of pinto carbs and Clifford headers. No problems and a ball to drive
I just ran through the sag in my 57, and ran it down the strip at the trifive nationals this past weekend, 261 block, 302 gmc rods, venolia pop up Pistons, Schneider cam with 492 lift, 280 duration, weiand intake, a pair of pinto carbs and Clifford headers. No problems and a ball to drive
Funny you ask. I had 0 miles on a new motor and trans, no time to dial in the timing or carbs, and junky 3:55 gears. Have not really driven the car in 15 years. Took a very very easy first pass down the strip, almost just a drive. Shifted at 3800 rpm (I usually shift at 5700). The rods weren't hanging out of the pan and the trans shifted smoothly and without issue. Ran a high 18 at 75 mph. Was getting ready to make a second more aggressive pass when rain killed the drag racing part of the show. With 4:11 gears, a little tuning and some rpm, I suspect I can get it into the high 15s
