Fly wheel choices i have a turbo 292 thats .40 over with a tremec tko 5 speed going behind it gearing is 1st 3.27 2nd 1.98 3rd 1.34 4th 1.00 5th .68

Was wondering of a good flywheel to slap on there ad what should be done to get it to hold like drill for bigger bolts ect

And how many teeth to get

Josh, get the biggest wheel and clutch combo that will fit in he bell housing.

I don't know how big that is.

For a turbo 292 I expect you will need a strong clutch, if you are like me you don't like a heavy pedal.

In looking for a clutch that could do both (hold and not have a heavy pedal) I discovered Hays.

Yes, they are an old standby for many, I haven' t had any trouble with mine (95-201 behind a rowdy v thingy in my model A).

I don't know what input shaft your TKO has, but I would try this one (if it will fit)

Oops, link didn't stick.

http://haysclutches.com/drivetrain/clutch-kits/super-brute-clutch-kit-gm-11.html

They have a tech line, and an online catalog, flywheels too (if you aren't looking for a cast iron piece ).

Hey thanks man that clutch looks like it should work i am goin to cout the splines right now

P.s. i respect you for mentionig publically you have v thingy;) just kidding haha

Thanks fr the reply i will keep an eye on this clutch

Was wonderin the difference between a 153 and 168 tooth clitch just the clutch size it can hold and starter?

Also foun a couple clutces and fly wheel on hays don't know the link but te part numbers are

Clutch kit #85-112
Flywheel # 10-130

Two differences I can think of.
The 168 tooth flywheel is probably for a 12 volt starter and may well be larger for a larger clitch disc, 9-1/2" to 10". The 153 tooth flywheel may be for a 6 volt flywheel and the clutch be in the 9" range. The 153 tooth would take the 6 volt starter, but could still be a 12 volt system. You can spin a 6 volt starter with a 12 volt system, you just can't stay on it too long or it will get overheated.

He's asking about the flywheel choices for the later 292 engines and not the Stovebolts.

Yes scott thats right

I have a Hays flywheel for mine, its an 11". I'll see what the part # is when I get home shortly and post it.

Thought I already bought a flywheel, but its going to be a Hays #10-130. Already have the tranny, billet yoke, blowproof, clutch and pressure plate though.

In my experience the 168 is for trucks and 153 is for cars.

Sense the V8 flywheels fit our 6s it gets a little weird. I have been told that the 168 tooth is used with clutches up to 12" and requires the bell housing mounted starter. It was used in trucks/pickups. The 153 is smaller uses up to a 10" clutch. It's starter mounts on the block. The problem with this info is that I know the later V8 pickup starter bolts to the block.

Not all of these blocks have the dual bolt patterns for the block mounted starters to accomodate the use of the larger flywheels. Just keep that in mind before you buy an expensive flywheel.

I had that in mine and it has dual bolt patterns and the flywheel bolts are already 1/2 inch

Either my block has been prepped before or i've just lucked out

I'll get some measurements but a 168 tooth should fit right?

Sorry!

Its okay any info is good info:)

I agree , this should be sorted out and posted in "our" Tech section.

I think so too!

TIMMMMMMM!!!!! Where are you web master when we need you lol

Also beater if i have both patterns i don't have to mount it to the bell housing do i?

And where do you guys get the dowel for the crank?

And is it just pressed in?

You will need to use a staggered bolt pattern starter and in the block for the 168 tooth flywheels, which also has a large armature. The 153 tooth flywheel uses the standard straight bolt pattern starter and bolt holes in the block.

What do you mean large armature?

It was common for Chevrolet to install large armature starters on vehicles equipped with the 168 tooth flywheels/flexplates since they were considered heavier duty. The larger armature was a bigger starter motor basically, and a little longer, that has a short copper tube connecting the solenoid to the field of the starter. The copper tube(dead give-away for large armature) is about 1/2"-3/4" long and this is about how much longer these starters are than the standard armature starters used in engines with the smaller 153 tooth flywheels/flexplates.

Ok, now I remember that part. Straight bolt pattern on block = 153 flywheel and staggered bolt pattern = 168 flywheel. All bell housing mount starters are 168 flywheel. Can it be that simple?

If someone will research this and write an article I will post it in the Tech Tips.

Tim

Im making a drilling fixture for guys that need to drill their blocks, so I can snap some pics and do a write up as well if that will help.

You can also just swap the starter noise. You also can use the noise as a template/jig. Use one bolt and a clamp. There is also a template in Leo's power manual. The 72 250 I had out of a Olds had Both patterns So all I did was swap the flywheel and starter noise.

Good point Larry to change noses if you had one.

Where do you guys get the dowel pin for the crank flange?

and the flywheel bolts for 1/2 x 20 x 1"

Also bronze or roller pilot bearing?

Thank you all for the help you have not only give me but to all memers ofthis board

Either are fine, the bronze ones are easier to remove if you ever have to change them.

Do you know where tofet the dowels for the crank scott?

Aren't there a couple of different lengths of nose pieces, or is it window sizes?

Josh, if im not mistaken, they are just a standard 1/2"(.500)hardened dowel. Double check the length to make sure they stick thru the flange on the flywheel far enough and allow them to fit in the crank flange flush and not stick out the backside toward the block. You might search locally at an industrial hardware type store or search MSC and see if there is one close to you.

For the flywheel bolts I would recommend using 1/2" bolts and Stage8 Chrysler 440/Hemi locking flywheel bolts. They are only available directly from Stage8. You can also use ARP Pontiac flywheel bolts. If you are going with 7/16" bolts, any good quality Chev V motor bolts work.

I have used both 153 and 168 tooth flywheels on 292s. The 153 was needed for a Chevy II. In both cases used a small block mini-starter with straight bolts without issue.

Fo they have to be flywheel bolts or can i get dome grade 8 bolts from the local bolt store?

Is the kit from stage 8 the # 8967s

what do you guys think of these bolts over the pontiac bolts

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-200-2804

vs

pontiac

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-290-2802

or are the pontiac bolts shouldered and just not shown in the picture as compared to the "topfuel" arp bolts

shearing tensile strength is greater on the "topfuel" bolts aswell

I like the looks of the top set better.

Me too i think thats the ones im'm going to get

I`m using a powermaster gear reduction type starter that I pulled off a big block v8 with the straight pattern on my 292. Got interested in this thread and tried both a 153 and a 168 flexplate and because the starter has 4 holes allowing it to move away from the block it works well in both applications. I am using pontiac bolts (1/2 in.) and got neww dowels from the machine shop. Hope this helps.

I guess the next question is have any of you idexed a bellhousig and how neccessary is it?

I've indexed a few - mostly on stick shift applications, where I feel it is necessary if serious competition-like upshifts are planned. I zeroed it in with eccentric dowel pins that I turned. Nowdays you can buy eccentric dowel pins.

A powerglide is more forgiving with a flex plate and converter but I have checked a case or two before buildup, to make sure it wasn't waay out.

Most blocks will need tweaking if you really check them closely. I think anything up to about .005" out is acceptable, like FTF said, stick trannys are more succeptable if their out too much than autos are.

Is i worth it to go through the process in my case as a hot street turbo 292 with a 5 speed

If you have access to the stuff to do it with, then by all means give it a shot. But I wouldn't be to concerned for just a street engine.

I might not go all the way to zero with it, but it's worth a look if you haven't had that belhousing on that block.

If you have had the engine line bored I would definately do it. When the engine is out of the vehicle and you have the bellhousing and a mag base dial indicator why not spend the few minutes to make sure it is with tolerance. It surely will not make the front trans bearing unhappy.....

The 8967S is the Stage8 kit. They even have it listed under GM inline 6 cylinder now....