I am in the beginning stages of making a new VC for these engines.
Going to keep the oil fill in the front. Make the breather/ fill hole a 1.25 Push in design.
This will also be a 2 Bolt (center) design. No perimeter bolts.

Is there many people that want the perimeter bolt design? If I understand correctly, the center bolt VC can be used on perimeter bolt engines if you add the 2 required studs to the rocker assy.

Does anyone see a need for a Rear PCV? Or just continue to rely on the draft tube?

The one Tom Schmanski made was for the two center bolt style head because he felt that was the most common head Stovebolt guys were building and using. Not sure if the perimeter bolt style head is similar enough to make one that can fit both, but that would be the best way to make one.

The 2 bolt design works on either head, just use a no hole gasket & change the 2 bolts to studs. I sell ten 2 hole to every 4 hole. No brainer. The front hole cover can cause some clearance issues on the later year cars. Do you have any renditions available ?

Doug,
Do you have a stock 2 hole cover to get measurements from? Or anyone else?

I think all of these engines have the old road breather hole on the right side of the block that can be used as the oil filler so you don't need the filler messing up the valve cover. Two nice little side mount breathers on the cove would be much cleaner and take care of any height issues.

Beater,
So you are saying to not have ANY fill hole molded into the VC?
Because the design so far includes one. It would be easier without one for me.

Need to here from more guy's that have them.
Who has a VC gasket that can measure the outside to outside measurement?
You can call if needed 319 476 2172

The part is mostly drawn up now.
It will also have a gasket edge around the perimeter. I have not seen that on other covers.

will get with you over the weekend. Have v/c & gasket to send to you .

Yes, just plane. Some of the 216s had no cap on the valve cover. They all had a hole in the block by the distributer for a breather/oil filler. Little Offey style or your side mount breathers would be a clean setup. You could cast in the boss and machine them if the customer wanted. Someone else also makes and adapter to put this old style cover on the 194-292 engines. I doubt if I'll ever run one of these engines again with all the Jimmys, 292s and 153s piled around here.

I think that oil fill road draft tubes were used only on the earliest 216s in cars - pre '41. But I think that the truck engines always had them:


Some guys use the road draft tube hole for a PCV conversion:
with this setup one could still pop the PCV to fill the crank case.

And I have also seen the non-filler road draft tubes modified by cutting off the down tube - welding bung over the hole so that a PCV valve can then be fitted to the up tube. This is similar to the GM dealer installed option.

So there can be competing interests for the same opening(s) . . .

I have designed mine with this in mind. I like the tops of the valve covers to be clear of any clutter like oil fill caps and pcv inlets. It makes a much cleaner looking engine compartment and you can re-locate those items in the side covers and other spots that are less obvious. Granted, sometimes you just can't always move the pcv somewhere else easily, but it also removes the oil seepage from it and the filler cap where it doesn't stain and mess up the valve cover as well.

I know they did not all have road breathers but am pretty sure they all had the hole for them just above the oil pan. By the time smog rules came along these engines were gone. Not that a well designed PCV is a bad thing.

I am pretty settled on keeping just the front stock location for Fill/ breather. The biggest difference with mine will be the gasket surface area. Others I have seen made them cheap and put no gasket rail like I currently do with my 250/292 VC.
The fins will also have a very similar look to my other VC. Hope to have drawings this week.

Here are some drawings. Going to the Pattern shop on Fri to discuss details. Maybe have castings in hand within 30 days.







Side cover next.

looks like a great start. What is the estimated cost for the components as a set and stand alone? I think the way you have it drawn now is best with only the one fill hole. Im currently also in the process of designing a VC for my 235. These types of projects are so fun to do.

Like the idea of the gasket lip but make sure the lip will not hinder the re-tightening of the cover after the gasket has time to pack up.

That's always a better design trait to prevent the gasket from being dislodged and leaking.

Wolfcub,
I expect the prices to be similar to my other VC. Possibly cheaper if machining is easier.

The wide gasket rail is an awesome idea. The VC is always a difficult spot to seal on the 216-235 engines. You get these ready I'll buy one. I'd buy one for a GMC too. 😉

The pattern is getting cut next week. Then off to the foundry. Maybe have them ready in about 1 month.

The pattern is at the foundry. It look s NICE!
They need to install the gating and a few chills before it can be poured. Hope to have one in next couple weeks.
I have the machining jig made for the CNC. Just waiting to get the first ones.

I can live with filler breather hole in the front the no name feature is what I've always desired in an early engine VC.

I actually like a name on my parts. I have a 235/261 timing cover that Charlie Baker was making before he passed away. When he told me he was going to cast them up, I asked whether he was going to put vintage design and development or VD&D on the cover and he told me that he did not want to put a logo on it. I begged him to cast some with his logo, no dice. I have one of his covers, but now that he has gone off to a bigger and better place, I really lament that my cover does not have his name or logo on it. Just me I guess, lol.

Progress is slow. My foundry is short a few key guy's. Here is the pattern at the foundry waiting it's turn.
Love the look of billet.

Geez that looks nice!

After a tough time at the foundry. They lost 2 long time employees. The 235 2 bolt VC is real. Have 2 of them in my hands, both are machined. These are just samples for jigging. Have a couple more problems to resolve and then will have a finished product.

Very nice

Very nice classy and plain.

Looks good! I was fixing to send them some more patterns to cast, so you're saying to expect more lead time then?

OK Guy's
Need some help. Scratching my head on the hardware for installing this new VC.
If put on a later model 235/261 the rocker stand bolts need to be pulled and replaced with studs. The OAL needs to be about 5.5"

Debating on how to do this and not break the bank.
Options
1. Use a 3/8-16 double ended stud. 3/4" of thread on bottom and 2+" thread on top with a nut on the rocker stand.

2. A 3/8-16 threaded rod 5.5 long and a nut on rocker stand (cheapest way)

The top gets a oversized stainless cap nut and stainless washer with built in seal.

Or do you have any other ideas?

Like how much more cost effective?

If you go with option 2 you will have some fool that will not fully embed the threaded rod into the head and start pulling up with the nut and pull out the rod.

Option one is the best way in my opinion.

then again option 2 has been done for a very long time.

I like option one!! Better hardware is ALWAYS better!!

Here is the problem with option 1, I cannot find the hardware to purchase. Can find shorter double ended studs.
Need 5.5 OAL

The stock part on the stovebolts is 5-3/8" in length and 3/8 course threads into the head and fine thread on the rocker stand and wingnut end:


The GM part number is 838336 group number 0.413. Not sure if there is any old stock still floating around . . . my parts master shows this part was unchanged since the 1934 model year.

Somebody is still making these - Jim Carter Trucks has got a kit for 17 bucks

Then to not hold things up go with option 2.

I looked into it after seeing your post today and looks like 90% of the replacement bolt kits are just threaded rod. Do you even need the fine tread for the top nut? just do a full 3/8-16 threaded rod with a matching SS acorn 3/8-16 top nut.

mdonohue05 Charley Baker did cast a few valve covers with "Inliners" on them. It was a short run.

I never knew that. Charlie made me up the 302 Gmc rods that I finally got around to using in the 261 that is now in my 57. I also have one of his offy side plates, a timing cover, and an an aluminum thermostat housing Charlie was messing with before he passed. I was pretty young when I first joined in liners. Charlie, pat smith, tom Langdon, dick berlotucci, don Kincaid, chuck small (dr. 235), and a few other of the early members were really good about helping me with my questions re building the 235 and 261 motors. I still have some of my correspondence, all pre Internet, from that time.

The foundry has got them in my possession. Machined up a few and got a few polished. As usual , they look great!
The hardware had to be custom ordered and is being made. Don't expect that for about 1 month.

You're going to have to sell sunglasses along with those!

looks like they are up for sale on ebay

What are your plans and timeframe for GMC covers?

Those Chevy ones really look nice.

Ed

Inliner member James Larrowe makes side covers and a valve cover for the GMC engines already if you want one now.

When will you have more in stock tom?

My foundry has been slow on getting them out. Expect more soon.

James Larrow is building my blower setup for my 292. It's almost done. I think that everyone should just leave him alone for a while, but that's just me. LOL