I see this said on a few web sites, is there really any advantage to this at all, it is worth it????? Does it make any difference in sound or HP/Torque-what gives, how can you even do this with a 235 exhaust manifold??
a 235 manifold can only be split 3-3.i do about 10 per week as i also do 250-292's.i have taken up the business that kansaskustoms had and he taught me well.
the sound is very pleaseing as well as allowing the engine to breath easier on exhale.
ford 226's will split 3-3 .the newer 215-223-200 engines will only split 4-2 but still sounds awesome.
any help please message me.
How much do you charge to split a 250 manifold? Can you supply a good core, or would I have to send you mine?
Gentlemen;
The 'tube' headers (Clark) sell for under $150 on e-bay and fit the 216/235/261 W/O any problem, look nice and are "period correct" etc.
This "spliting" a manifold, was a 'micky mouse' thing Muffler Shops did in the 50s, before Headers were born.
Good luck.
Im running split manifolds on two of my cars mainly for the sound. Also the exhaust is still bolted to the intake as original so you don't have to be concerned about loosing heat to the intake like with fentons, plus it looks period.
And I have a great Inliner friend who's a master at welding cast iron.
All the books say that tube type tuned headers are best for power but for a cruiser type set up I like the split or Corvette.
Jim in OK, You need to advertise in our Newsletter, your service is much in need. Best of luck!
64biscayne, be sure to check out Tom Langdon's cast iron headers for your later series engine. I'm very happy with mine.
i charge 185 for splitting your core with or without heatriser.i utilize a front dump or rear dump depending on the customer.$215 using my core.that is for any inline .ford flatties are a little harder and are a tad more.
i have sold many and have not had one complaint.as for mickey mouse..there sure are a lot of them on the street and were actually sold through this site up until last year from mike yoders kansas kustoms.
There are definetly some mickey mouse ones out there with a flat gasket and different size outlets. I take it on yours both outlets use the same seal donut and have the same bolt spacing with a threaded flange? Can we see a picture of your work?
when i get home from work i will send out pics.these use the same size flanges and are made identical to kansas kustoms that was advertised on this site.i use the same parts he used.i spent many hours with him before i cut my first one.
mine uses a 2 bolt flange that is close to the stock.same gaskets etc.
ok..how do i post pics???
you gotta post pictures onto a site like photobucket or a like photo posting site, then copy the picture across, you know right click, copy, right click paste.
As others have said, a 216/235/261 exhaust can only be split 3 & 3. Years ago we used to cut the stock manifold right behind the center outlet, then weld a piece of cast iron across the hole. Then we used a Fenton cast y-shaped rear manifold, similar to what Langdon sells now for the later engines. The flanges were the same and used the same doughnut gasket. They flowed well and sounded good too.
A tube header is more efficient if it is done properly. The 2-3 and 4-5 tubes need to be larger diameter than the 1 & 6 tubes. I haven't tried stepping them, but that would probably help. They don't sound any better and they are more prone to leak, but they help the power if the primary tubes are the right length.
For performance 3&3 is the only way,but for a "UNIQUE" exhaust noye 4&2 is hard to beat. It doesnt help performance, but it doesn't hurt it either,at least not in a sled.
it's hard to split a gm manifold 4-2.fords and hudsons are easy 4-2 candidates
here is a 250 we just welded up
another view of flange/universal
