I use my ’65 nova 230 inliner primarily for drag racing in SS/B Inliner stock class. I’ve installed a PerTtronix breakerless ignition kit and use their high performance coil. The stock vacuum advance is connected. The car has a Powerglide with a 3000 stall speed converter. With my 4.11 gears and 24” tires, I usually go through the ¼ mile lights at about 4800 rpm. I’m thinking it may be helpful to have the distributer recurved to fit my primary use. But, I need some help. I don’t know what instructions I should give the shop. What would be a good combination of initial, total advance, and an rpm for all-in for my drag racing use? Your suggestions would be most appreciated… and have a Merry Christmas.

Jim Johnson
#5297

I generally try to run as must initial timing as I can get away with,so as not to detonate.

For example,15-20 degrees or more initial & have the rest in the mechanical advance 32-40 or more,total,, depending on what your engine likes.

What does your car run?

Have you thought about a Th350 trans swap, or is it not allowed?

BTW, if you do get too much detonation ,you could use toluene,Xylene & other chemicles from Home Depo or local paint stores to increase your octane.
much cheaper than buying Super 104,Torco,etc octane boosters.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html


MBHD

My best ET so far is 17.116. That's not real quick, but it's down more than a second from where I started.

I'm running in stock class, so a trans swap is not possible. Also, the rules don't allow any octane boosters.

Jim

When I was a kid and my big brother used to take me to the drags in Amarillo, Texas I remember one when a Shoe Box Ford turned a time no one could believe. I don't remember the time but they made him pull the intake and heads. He was legally stock, but that was the first "stock" race car we had ever seen. From bumper to bumper that car was all competition. It fitted the rules barely and exactly. Striped of everything not required and maximum clean up bore, head and valve work. From your post I can see you headed there. You can probably run around 36* total advance and I'd have it come in by 1200 rpms maybe sooner. Beater

Have you contacted the local Inliners? You've got some very serious racers up there and I'm sure they could help.

That's a good reminder. I'll plan on discussing it at our February meeting. Jim

jim,
I pretty much agree with Hank.
You set the timing using by using 3 different areas.

Initial-
set by you with no vacum line hooked up. Ussually at idle and set to 12-20 degrees

Mechanical-
This portion comes with centrifical weights. Can be set with a moroso advance weight/spring kit Ussually ads 20-28 degrees at around 4K rpm

Vacum-
This will ad in timing going down the road, Ussually 10-15 degrees.

I would use a HEI and set
initial to 15 degrees
mechanical to 20 degrees to be all in by 2800 rpm
vacum to add 15 degrees at road vacum

initial 15+ mech 20= 35 degrees at 2800 rpm or more. You can add or subtract by changing the initial timing up / down. Tom

Tom: That's very clear. Thanks for your help. Jim