i need input on how converters work on six cylinders as opposed to v/8`s. possible combo, 292/1.76 powerglide,1800lb car,3.90 gears,10 to 1, 26in tire,naturally aspirated.i have a 5000 continental which worked well in a blown 509.so, tell me what you think.

The amount of stall you will need also Depends greatly on what the cams Rpm band is. Lets just say Idle to 5000 rpm.You wouldn't need anything over a stock unit. Now lets say your idle is 1200 rpm.But the cams power band is 3800 to 7200 you could run
anything from a 1400-4000 stall if you wanted to.Just food for thought.

I don't know if this is any help, but I've used two converters that were orignally built for big block Chevies in the 496 - 540 cid range. Both big block owners told me the converters stalled at 5500 rpm in their big block Chevy dragsters.

Guess what. Both converters stalled at 5500 rpm in my crossflow 300 Ford six. Which tells me that at 5500 rpm my inliner is making about the same torque as a big block Chevy.

Granted, that speed is probably near the peak torque on my engine, whereas the torque for the big blocks is higher at higher rpms than my inliner.

I think a N/A 292 will not stall to 5000 RPM as it did w/a blown 509 BB engine, it should be a lot lower stall IMO.

Are you saying the blown 509 BBC (I assume ? ) was in this vehicle also? "1800lb car"

MBHD

thanks for the input. the 509 was in a different car, now sold. the new car is a work in progress. a more nostalgic style with front suspention.i just have a few parts left over and the converter was one of them because that bbc was brutal on parts.

My '65 Nova wagon is about 3,000 lbs and is powered by a 230ci inliner. I use a Powerglide with a converter built with a 3600 rpm stall. It seems to work great with my 4.10 rear gears and 23 inch slicks. I leave the line at 3,600 rpm, shift into Drive at 6,000 rpm, and go through the traps at about 5000. The car pulls hard off the line and is very consistent.

Sounds great!
What does it run?

MBHD

after meeting the kirby/sissell people at the reunion,beautiful cars,i was told they spin them 8 to 9 grand. obviously al rods , is it to much to expect 6 grand out of a long steel rod 292?

Is the rotating assembly stock or aftermarket. By steel rods do you mean stock original equipment with cast pistons, then no, 6000 RPM would not be realistic or advised.

i was thinking forged pistons, stock cast crank and reworked con rods(arp bolts shot peened etc). i didn`t know that steel aftermarket rods were availible. gotta quit thinking antique.

MBHD: 15.4's and 15.5s.

I would try to select a cam and intake to get the job done by 5000 RPM. Your just living on borrowed time trying to turn a 292 that hard with stock rods. If it were a 250, then I wouldn't be too concerned.

Have a friend that turned his stock rod and piston 292 to 6500 on every pass until his reground broke into three pieces. Aftermarket steel and aluminum rods are available. The last price I was quoted from Carrillo was a little over $1600.00. Maybe someone with connections could do better. Aluminum costs around $700.00. Price of fun goes up with rpm.

the reason behind the rod question is obvious, i`m a tite a.. with the the last motor, i tried to keep it 7500 or less with occasional 8200 when i blew the tires away. i changed rods every 25 to 30 laps at 850$ a set. if i go for the lower rpm redline , is it still worthwile to lump the head. last question for awhile?

Lump porting is a 30-40 HP gain at most any RPM, so you should do that regardless. 292's can live at high RPM with the right stuff, but like has been stated, the cost of those pieces goes up with the RPM level. Many people try to build these engine based on prior experiences with V8's, and it doesn't work. They have their own unique characteristics that are much different than any SBC or BBC.

thanks everone, i maybe tite but i also know you have to put good parts in to forestall that grenade going off to soon. now all i have to do is find a machine shop in the central ca. area that is familiar with this type of motor