I installed my two 6V horns last night in my 50 Chevy car with a couple of 6V reducers because my system is 12V and they aren't working. The reducers are the size of a quarter, with ceramic and two prongs, bought them on Ebay. I put one on each horn and nothing. If I take them off then of course the horns work. But if I leave them with 12V juice eventually they will burn out, right? Do I need more reducers in line? I tried just one reducer for the two and still nothing, you just hear the relay working.

There are a few questions that come to mind. What is the amperage rating of the reducers? They put relays on horns because of the amperage pull.

I don't think 12 v would be a problem for the horn as long as it's not prolonged use. Another option would be to series the horns. IF you only have a single connection on the horn, you would have to open it to see if there is a chassis ground in the horn.

Larry

I have a pair of stock 6v horns for my '38 stude and plan to mount them in series as Larry suggests. As they each ground to their mount I will insulate the first and run its ground to the positive of the second horn. Each will then "see" 6 volts. Should work just fine. Also have a nice loud freight-train style air horn for those who don't pay attention. S

I think I understand. My horns ground to the body of the car and then they have a single wire for power. How will I run a ground to the other horn's power wire? And then what wire will I use from that horn for power? Thanks

If the body of the horn grounds to the frame then you need to insulate one so it cannot touch metal to metal with the frame. This usually means you insulate the bolts that mount to the frame and make sure the horn body is not touching the frame. Rubber mounts should work. Your normal power line for the horn will connect to the insulated horn's power connection and a wire from the body of that horn should send power to the second horn that is mounted normally to ground with the frame.

You may be able to check the inside of the horn to see how it is grounded to the body (of the horn) or frame and dislocate that and run to the second horn.

I haven't looked at mine for a long time but as I remember it, I decided it would be easiest to insulate the first horn from the frame so it cannot ground, and run a wire from its body to the power input of the second horn.

I assume you have a power wire to each horn, coming from the same source, that is, they are wired in parallel.

Maybe the local radio shack would have something.
See if there is one old guy working there. The kids dont know nuthin except how to put time on your cell phone.

Instead of called a reducer it may be called a transformer or a Step-down Transformer. They may have something online... or Radio Shack also has a Giant Catalog that has stuff not carried in the store. It is all Electronic Gizmo stuff.

In the meantime, find a 6V motorcycle battery or riding lawnmower battery and play with your wiring setup.

Thanks

I have used 6 volt horns on a 12 volt system with no modifcations for years and have never burnt one up but they are a lot louder on 12 volts. If you were to run the horn for several minutes it would burn out but who blows there horn that much.

My experience is like big bill's.
I just hooked it up and moved on.
The horn was really loud and strident.
It worked for years. It was still working when I sold the vehicle.

Unless the horn has some value other than making noise,
I wouldn't worry about it.

If it does, then you might consider using the Wolo "Bad Boy" from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight instead. It ranges from $30 - $45 depending on the current sale.
You won't be disappointed in the volume.

regards,
Leon

ditto here. I'm using the original 6V horn and relay on my '53 sedan, but on 12 volts.

Thanks, I went ahead and did that today. Works just fine.

Well, that will certainly simplify my mounting of the horns. Thanks folks. Sam

Could you use a ballast resistor in the power wire to reduce the voltage?

I didnt read the question... I installed my two 6V horns in my 50 Chevy
Well Heck 2 6V horns equals 12V

Glad you got the horns working. When it comes to overblowing
All you have to worry about is Parades and Traffic Jams.
Oh and this should keep you from blowing your horn at pretty girls

Have run 12 volts to both 6 volt starters and horns for 45 or 50 years. Never had a horn or starter burn up on 12 volts! Starts heck of a lot better and horn rattles the front fenders and hood! It does get the other drivers attention! Bought my first 47 Chevrolet in 1955 at the age of 13 for 35 dollars. Drug it home with dads trusty 48 Chevy truck.The first time I tried it was nervous as a prostitute in church about burning something up but never did! Still playing with all this old stuff at 66 years young!

Me to; I'm running 12 volts on my '48 chevy' stock relay and horns .About 6 yrs. now. 1 OL REDNECK