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RevOD,,
I have the same type of set-up you are putting together.

I just welded a 3" V-band flange to the flat plate.
I also made the transiton from the turbine wheel to the 3" V-flange nice & smooth to the 3" downpipe.

Just so it would be easier to take off & on the downpipe.My flat plate has 5 bolts holding it on, so I did not want to takeoff all 5 bolts to unbolt the downpipe.

Now & can just loosen the one 7/16 nut on the V-band clamp & the downpipe comes off.

When you have your downpipe welded to your plate, be sure to check for flatness, they have a tendancy to warp after welding.

MBHD


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I would like to do a v band but I do not have the ability to weld stainless steel unfortunately.. do they make them in mild steel?

Got some more toys in today also.



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Most of them are made w/mild steel.
When people advertize them, they say "stainless" ,,, but ,that is usually the clamp they are saying is stainless.

B.T.W., you can weld mild steel to stainless.
There is a particular type of welding rod you should use, but it is not absolutly necessary.

I see you have new toys.
Going to be veiwing your A/F readings?


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yeah going to split the inputs from the LC-1 to my narrow band Autometer LED gauge and then to the O Meter which has a digital display as well and data Logging abilities.

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Do you have a wide band set-up?
If not, I would not tune with just a narrow band reader, not very accurate,also very slow!!
Two Cents.

MBHD


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Yes like I said I have a LC-1 which is a wideband sensor setup. I will use the narrowband guage which your can program the Wideband to run as a quick refrence and the O Meter which will also give me a numerical display.

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I thought the LC-1 was a wide band, just slipped my mind.
I just use the LM-1.

MBHD


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I did fine a v band set in mild steel so I may look into that. have to see if I can afford the extra $50 or so on them right now.

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I located a Mercruiser Cast Valvecover today also. Should be here soon.

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RevOD,,,
Looks good,

Did you finish your "J-pipe" to attach your turbo to the exhaust manifold?

That Nova pic brings back some good memories of my Moms 73 nova.

Your boost gauge, does that read in Bar,not psi?

MBHD


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I need to get the head back from the shop to finish the J-Pipe so I know where the location will be. The boost gauge does read PSI. The "O" Meter you dont see will be right where the odometer is.

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RevOD,,,

cool! Did you get an velosity stack inlet w/your turbo?
I know they make nice aftermaket ones for GN's, try & get as big as you can, helps the airflow.

On your exhaust manifold heat valve, are you installing a plate for the to cover it?
I never seen that done yet, but I think T-lowe had his all done,but then he went & bought a SPA turbo exhaust manifold & used that instead.

MBHD


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I have a stock turbo inlet bell I believe its 3in.

When you say Exhaust manifold heat valve you mean the flapper in the exhaust manifold? What would I cover?

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I forgot what intake manifold you are going to use?
Does it bolt together to the exhaust manifold?
That would be too much heating of your intake air if they bolt together.

If you can, look for a 4" inlet & relocate a inline filter to get cold air.
I would not just bolt on a filter right to your 3" inlet, too much hot air in that area.
Two cents. :-) Not trying to be pushy, just giving you some ideas.

MBHD

Yes, I am saying the flapper valve in the exhaust manifold.You would need to position the flapper valve to flow correctly for your turbo application.


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Ah I see what your saying, yeah I dunno how I would block that heat off. Im using the Offy 4bbl intake. so they do bolt together. I guess I could always just Weld the flapper shut inside the manifold.

I think I may use a 3in to 4in coupler and then run a 4in filter remote mount.

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Well looks like my 250 might be a 230. Since I had the head off I decided to take some measurements and seems with the piston at BDC its only 3.25in Deep.

Here is the problem. This is what was stamped n the block.


Here is where the problem came in. My 1973 Motors Manual list the block stamp CCC as a 250 but in my 71 Motors Manual it list CCC as a 230. IS just measuring the piston depth an accurate way to tell?

If so... oh well

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Larry/Novaman will know "what up" with that.


John M., I.I. #3370

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well it least the 230/250 heads are the same correct? I'm having the head rebuilt so I can always swap in a 250 or rebuild it with a 250 crank. I had plans to build up a motor anyways in the future.

I'm not to concerned seeing as I'm not building a race car. I just want it to run and be fun, even the 230 with the turbo should be exciting.

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RevOD,,,
The cylinder heads are the same.


You can turn the crankshaft & put the piston @ BDC Botton dead center, (bottom of the bore)

Place a tape measure/ruler, down the bore to the top of the piston.

Look @ the top of the block where your ruler/tape measure is @ see what the measurement is.

3.53"= 250
3.31?"=230 off the top of my head???

So basically if you see your measurement is just over 3.5" then it would be a 250.

MBHD


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RevOD
Here are the casting numbers to the 250 cranks that I had gotten on one of my past post on that very same question.
460407
2779954
3876802*
3962084
* This is the crank in my block which shows to be a 230 also. Hope this helps. Are you still digging out from under snow? I'm so gald I don't live in Missouri any more.
;\)
Randy

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 Quote:
Originally posted by RevOD:
Since I had the head off I decided to take some measurements and seems with the piston at BDC its only 3.25in Deep.

3.25 comes out to just under 230 cubic inches, looks like you got a 230.

Good luck

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Yeah seems that way... it least it wasn't a 194 lol

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 Quote:
Originally posted by Randy S. Hager:
Are you still digging out from under snow? I'm so gald I don't live in Missouri any more.
;\)
Randy
Snow? you kidding its been in the 60's here for the last few days. We barely got any snow around st. louis

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 Quote:
Originally posted by RevOD:
Yeah seems that way... it least it wasn't a 194 lol
My bro ended up with the 194 \:D

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No, at least it's not the 153 ...

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True....

More parts arrived.


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RevOD
Yea, it's around 65 miles from your house out to Troy or up to Bowlingreen were my step-daughter lives. Seems they got a lot of snow. Glad to hear your not snowed under. Hey, about the 230, I think you can get forged pistons for a 283 then you can turn up the boost for some great HP/TQ.(i'm sure someone WILL correct me if I'm wrong) :p

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I think they are 307 pistons IIRC. Yeah when I rebuild I will be doing that.

Also ive been looking I think I may try and run a Top Mount IC.

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307 pistons are for a 250 is correct.
283 pistons for the 230.

MBHD


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Thanks Hank. I didn't think I was losing my mind before 50. Lots of helpfull people here on this board. I've learned a lot form guy's like you! ;\)

PM me about the roller cam from Comp Cams.

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 Quote:
Originally posted by Mean buzzen half dozen A.K.A. Hank:
307 pistons are for a 250 is correct.
283 pistons for the 230.
I though they were the same bore?

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Well there was not a big enough space to weld a 3in pipe/v-band. And even 2 1/2 would not leave enough room to weld near one bolt hole. So I had the shop fab up a series of swedges on a pipe to enlarge it to 3in. Not pretty but it will work.



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That will work fine!
Just make sure the adapter plate is still flat after that swedge was welded on. Two cents :-)

So,, what's next on the agenda?

MBHD


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Yeah we already check it as flat. We stitched it on as to prevent any warping, im actually quite happy with how the welds turned out. The head should be back soon. We actually tested the stock springs and they were 81psi close so were leaving them on there. Its getting all new intake valves the stock ones were severely pitted and wore down in the centers. I decided not to go bigger since I do not want to mess with grinding a relief.

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OK, I guess on the springs, but you have to ask yourself, how old are those springs & how little $$$ a new set of stock springs cost?
I know, I know, 30 dollars here, 20 dollars there adds up quickly.Two cents.

MBHD


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 Quote:
Originally posted by Mean buzzen half dozen A.K.A. Hank:
OK, I guess on the springs, but you have to ask yourself, how old are those springs & how little $$$ a new set of stock springs cost?
I know, I know, 30 dollars here, 20 dollars there adds up quickly.Two cents.

MBHD
Already ahead of you a new set of stock springs are going on the head.

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[/qb][/QUOTE]I though they were the same bore? /QB][/QUOTE]

RevOD
Both engines have the same bore but, have different wrist pin height/compression height.

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 Quote:
Originally posted by Randy S. Hager:
I though they were the same bore? /QB][/QUOTE]

RevOD
Both engines have the same bore but, have different wrist pin height/compression height. [/QB][/QUOTE]

Ah ok.... that makes sense

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How do you do those qoutes?
These stupid bracketed things come up when I use the "QUOTE" feature. What am I missing?

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