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and your doing the tubing yourself?

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The up pipe I fabricated myself. The downpipe I had the local parts house bend up real quick and the rest of the exhaust I will do myself.

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what kind of exhaust are you running?

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Right now nothing, but I will be running full 3in back through a 3in Flowmaster Super 40 and a 3in tailpipe behind the rear tire. Im going to have them cut it short of the fender and then ill weld on a piece of 1.5" rusty pipe from a 73 Nova to the 3in so thats all you see under the fender.

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gettin fancy i see. lol. i was considering taking off my cat, welding a new trunk floor, and running a split pipe out under neath. i really like the curved pipe behind the rear tire though. ever do anything like that before?

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Well I got exhaust run from the downpipe to the muffler, 3in crush bent (it was cheap and i need exhaust) didnt change the spool up time by maybe 100-150rpm if that, the whine is very hushed now also.

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pix - video \:\)

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 Quote:
Originally posted by RevOD:
Well I got exhaust run from the downpipe to the muffler, 3in crush bent (it was cheap and i need exhaust) didnt change the spool up time by maybe 100-150rpm if that, the whine is very hushed now also.
So,, when does the engine start making boost(RPM) & what is your torque converter stall? (RPM)

MBHD


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I would have to look closer but im full boost @ 2700 i wanna say it starts building around 2400ish. The converter is right around 2000-2100 ish

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how much boost are you building? can you really feel it pulling? are you gettin any time to tune it? take your time, destruction can happen fast while in boost. tom


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65 Chevelle Wagon and 41 Hudson Pickup
Information and parts www.12bolt.com

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We have a 3.36 psi spring in there right now to be safe. We took the carb off this afternoon. Were boost referencing the PV. Then im going to set my cruise AFR and then try to get the WOT AFR down. Using vent tubes first and then work on opening up the PV channels.

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 Quote:
Originally posted by RevOD:
I would have to look closer but im full boost @ 2700 i wanna say it starts building around 2400ish. The converter is right around 2000-2100 ish
That is what I was talking about when running a chambered muffler over a straight through type. You loose 100-200 rpm untill your engine sees boost.
Now to make your vehicle launch w/boost pressure,you would need a looser converter.
I know you have the stock cam,correct,,, & see it still lacks a little low end grunt,that is why I recommended a 2400 RPM stall torque w/a stock cam.

I know you have some more tunning to go,glad to see your enjoying it!
Goodluck on your tunning,also,,, where are the pics of the exhaust system?

MBHD


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Ill have some soon, yeah im not real worried about launching w/ boost honestly, its not a race car. Although Ive considered installing a cutout just for such occasions. Maybe if I build another motor I will worry about good flowing exhaust and looser converters but I just want a driver mainly I went through all that in the last few years when i raced the car, manual valve bodies, 3600 converters, yadda yadda just tired of all that.

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 Quote:
Originally posted by tlowe I.I.#1716:
can you really feel it pulling?
A bit, when i first set it up and had good AFR's I had the charge pipe blow off and you bet I felt a loss of power at that point. But ALOT of turning to go.

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Yeah, I see what you are saying, it is not being a race race & I was not saying it was.

I was looking @ a standpoint of better drivability.
It is more injoyable to drive a car without turbo lag, & having a 2400 RPM converter is by no means a high stall race converter,you really would not notice the difference between 2100 & 2400 RPM converter.
Two cents

MBHD


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Your right I wouldn't and i will keep that in mind definitely.

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