Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines 230 six master rebuild kit & cam advice

Hi all,

As I said in my intro I'm rebuilding a 230 six for a 64 Chevy C10 pick up. We've just got the block machined and need 10 under rod and 10 under main bearings and +30 thou pistons & rings.
I wanted to get a master rebuild kit for it becuase I'll need a new oil pump and valvetrain but wasn't sure if a standard cam was best or there is a batter choice. Also who to speak to for advice and where to get the master rebuild kit from.
I was also going to get a nice inlet manifold for it, a bigger carb and a flowed exhaust manifold. However I'll put a separate pot on on that if I may (or should I keep it here?)

All advice welcome please!
Thanks Nick

For camshaft specs see the "Cam Specs, 250" Series Engines" in the Tech Tips section of this site (Blue Column, left side of page). At a bare minimum, at least upgrade to the Chevrolet Mercruiser Marine cam.

Winter - my first reply - many thanks.
Why do you advise that cam - what will it do for the engine?
Thanks, Nick

Thanks - I've looked through the spec sheets for the cams and to be honest I don't really understand it. Can somebody please explain what and why?
thanks, Nick

See Nick, I told you you'd get help here. These guys will have you putting a turbo on it if you stick around. Good to have you here. Beater

STAY AWAY FROM THE IMPORT PARTS. THERE QUALITY IS REALLY LOW. YOU WANT TO HOT ROD IT OR GO FOR FUEL MILAGE OR WHAT ?

How you are going to use your truck determines its power range and the parts you use. Normally aspirated engines have about a 3000 rpm power band. You have to choose where that range is. 500 to 3500 rpm, or 1000 to 4000 rpm, 2000 to 5000, or 3000 to 6000 rpm or somewhere in between?

A U-Tube primer on camshafts:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnfdYc2GAz0&feature=relmfu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqerHlVIqS4&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46GR_iHJx-k&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pa3mKXN-tIY&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRHm5eTBnpA&feature=related

One of numerous explanations on camshaft specifications:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/113_9604_choosing_the_right_camshaft/viewall.html

Wow those U tube primers are very good. Nice to see it's a UK company (Moss) doing it!!

Now I understand how a cam works and things like duration, overlap and lift. I'm still no wiser as to what to choose though!
The engine needs to run well at idle, low range and mid range. 500 to 3500 rpm would be fine for it - I can't see it getting wound up much beyond that. It is after all going to be a nice weekend truck to take to shows. What rpms do these turn on the freeway at 70 mph with the standard axle (it's probably got the 3.73 axle - I guess we could turn it round to check)
Do the rear end gears need to be changed to the 3.07 gears to stop its tounge hanging out at 70 mph? Let's hope it doesn't have the 4.11 gears!

So given the above criteria, what cam and carb do you think I need please?

Thanks all, regards, Nick

So you are mainly driving the 1964 Chevy truck on the street and taking it to car shows. One question related to car shows is how "stock" do you want the truck?

I am more familiar with the 250 than the 230. My Chilton's manual shows a slightly lower lift for the stock 230 cam than the stock 250 cam. Never seen this mentioned before.

All stock? Use the original cam, for the 250 it is GM 3864819. Best bottom end power at 500 rpm. Best application for a farm truck in fields and woods. With this cam, the truck will carry a full load in the bed, and motivate without bucking at idle speed. You may want to consider replacing the fiber camshaft gear with metal gears (non-GM), your choice here.

All GM? Use the original cam, GM 3864819 or the GM Marine cam, GM 3891590. The Marine cam is used in inboard marine engines. Good low and mid rpm cam, slightly more overall power. Stock OEM valve springs are fine.

Better street power and drive-ability? For power to 4000 or 4500 rpm, the Comp Cams C60-240H-8, Crower 248HDP, or Isky 231-M Mile-A-Mor. Still plenty of low end power. On the street with the stock cam, you run out of revs fairly quick. And on the street you don't need that stout bottom end power as much. These are still mild cams, milder than recommended for most real performance applications. For reference only, a popular street performance cam is a Comp Cams C60-260H-10.

One of the biggest power gains is enlarging the valves to 1.84" intake and 1.6" exhaust (hardened exhaust seats). Stock is 1.7" and 1.5" respectively. For higher rpm applications 1.94" intake valves can be used.

Thanks Winter,
So lots to think about. Stock look isn't important - a 'performance', probably an Offy inlet manifold and set of cast headers will be on the list. As will some shiny stuff, and an HEI.
We aren't going to be hauling stuff (except a cooler and a picnic table!) and won't be doing any farm stuff or taking it into fields (except the car show field). It's strictly a weekend toy and not a farm truck. Those days are over for it.
But it has to be able to keep up with modern traffic and run sweetly at 70mph. What kind of revs will I be turning at 70 mph with the 3.73 rear gear?
thanks, Nick

Depends on how tall your tires are.
With a 27" tire, it's 3,250 RPM. Perfectly safe, just a bit noisy. Your mileage will stink, though.
IMHO best to get an idea of RPM and speed before you select a cam. The cam choice between a Powerglide with 3.08 gears and a 4-speed with 3.73 is very different.

Other useful links:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1931128...24EWJPZ7NAYWPP8
http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=6

3.73 AND 70 MPH WITH NO O.D is going to be a gas sucker. my 1971 chevy tk has that setup. best is about 10 mpg. 3.73 with a o.d. trans is perfect