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Yes... Let's stop this debate here. I have no control here but since I started the thread, I'd like it to focus on the original topic. You guys are obviously both very knowledgeable in your own right and I appreciate the information and opinions you've both provided me. I will probably continue to beg for all your help, but this 409 steel business is now overdone.

Ian


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Phew! Glad that is done.


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65 Chevelle Wagon and 41 Hudson Pickup
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Yeah me too--but i got copies of all

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To encourage a subject change, anyone have any suggestions for a fuel pump?

Also, I do research these things but even if I find things that I believe will work, I like to get your thoughts as experienced turbo users. I just don't want you guys to feel like I'm here to get spoon fed every little thing. Every thing you say
that is researched and evaluated.

Ian


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For a fuel pump you should look for something that is going pump enough volume & be @ least 3-5 psi above of your target boost pressure.
You should talk w/turbo6 here on the BB. He has been turbocharged & blowing through carbs for a long time.

I have only supercharged & blown my 250 6 through 3 DCOE 48 MM Weber's & only was able to get 8-10 psi out of my Paxton, planetary drive damm balls would slip

MBHD


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Personally, I would go with a electric fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator ( boost referenced).


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The EBay HEI Distributor arrived today and looks good. I didn't get a chance to hook it up today but I can only hope it works as good as it looks. I won't carry on about it as I know it's not really a turbo specific upgrade.

A few pics for those interested:







Found a SPA Turbo Wastegate, Fuel Regulator and Blow Off Valve that I like, but having trouble locating a suitable electric fuel pump (at a similarly suitable price of course). Next purchase will probably be the Offy Intake.

Ian


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Anytime you can increase the output of the ignition, that is better suited for a turbo app.

When running higher boost, you need to close the spark plug gap.

Don't even think about running a wide gap like .045" +, it will snuff out that spark.

A distributor cap w/brass inserts helps, or is that copper?

I used the Holley blue, or was it the red pump that pumps approx. 20 PSI? So I ran 9-10 psi boost pressure, w/the Holley pump.
This was it, the blue one is higher pressure, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-802-1/overview/
I just shimmed the spring a bit for more output.

With the Holley blue pump output, you could only go up to 10 psi of boost pressure approx.

This one would be better, but the output is just a bit more pressure 16 psi but more volume.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-150/overview/

A little pricey, 18 psi pump, but could run up to about 13 PSI of boost. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-5250/overview/

MBHD


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Yeah, I'm sure the HEI is a much needed upgrade regardless of the Turbo build. It has brass terminals.

I have a feeling this pump won't work for my application, but I'd hate not to ask. Talks a lot about EFI and being a good "booster" but says it's universal and can be used on it's own up to 500hp. Not sure if it's ONLY EFI or if it will work in a carbureted application:

MSD 2225 Hi Pressure Electronic Fuel Pump - http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/msd-2225

Ian


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I do not know for sure, the GPH might be too low? 43 GPH.

If you could ask turbo6 here AKA Harry, he would probably recommend a pump for you to purchase from a vender.

MBHD


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I decided to limit my boost goals to 13-14 psi... Which is probably more than than I need anyway. I'll do it with this 18psi pump from carter:

Carter 4601HP 100GPH 18PSI Fuel Pump (But Off Amazon for $99 and free shipping)

and the following regulator...

SPA Turbo Fuel Pressure Regulator

Unless I hear an objection, the specs and reviews of both look good to me.

Ian


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That pump should work, usually those type of Carter pumps are not too loud, but maybe that one is since it pumps out 18 PSI?

I have heard just the standard IIRC,the 5-6 psi Carter pumps, & those are not too loud.

Is that regulator a dead head type of regulator, meaning the fuel pumps to this regulator & has no return line to the tank?

MBHD


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Yeah I like the look of the pump and I read a review on amazon saying it wasn't too loud for the amount of pressure.

The regulator is harder to get info on but I've heard great thingsut SPA Turbo. Here is the link to the official site that shows the real image of the part:

SPA Turbo Fuel Pump official English site

From what I've been read elsewhere, there is a fuel in, fuel out, boost reference and return line (to tank) port. I belive the bottom "outlet" is for the return line. The big question now... Is that what I want? I was under the impression an electronic fuel pump would come with the side effect of the need for a return line.

edit: found Source of info for SPA Turbo regulator installation

Ian


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I would get a regulator that has a return line that will go back to the fuel tank, I do not like a dead head style regulator myself.
I used one for my blower application (a dead head regulator) it worked OK, but I think a regulator w/a return line would be a better way to go.
My old blower set-up.


BTW, Douglas my friend from Brazil says SPA products are good quality.
I had helped Douglas w/his Chevy Opala & for helping him out, he sent me a large SPA blow off valve, what a nice guy Douglas is. \:\)

The quality of the B.O.V. looks good, I have not tried it yet.

MBHD


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Yeah, I intend to get this SPA Turbo BOV at some point. From what I gather, they release a fine product at a competitive price... Which suits my plan perfectly.

Seems that finding a deal on the Offenhauser 5416 is not easy. Been searching Ebay, Google and using seaechtempest for huge Craigslist hunts but no real luck. I'm taunted by a recent completed Ebay auction where someone won one for $98. I can't belive it, I'd love a deal like that.. Hah, at this rate $200 is almost a deal.

Ian


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 Originally Posted By: Mean buzzen half dozen A.K.A. Hank
I would get a regulator that has a return line that will go back to the fuel tank, I do not like a dead head style regulator myself.
I used one for my blower application (a dead head regulator) it worked OK, but I think a regulator w/a return line would be a better way to go.
My old blower set-up.


BTW, Douglas my friend from Brazil says SPA products are good quality.
I had helped Douglas w/his Chevy Opala & for helping him out, he sent me a large SPA blow off valve, what a nice guy Douglas is. \:\)

The quality of the B.O.V. looks good, I have not tried it yet.

MBHD


I met with Douglas and a few of his friends at Orlando Speed world a few yrs. back and what a great bunch to have met in person.


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Took a bit of a risk and bought a carb off craigslist. I know I'm supposed to get the Holley 4776, but this Holley 81850 is, for some unexplainable reason, also a double pumper with mechanical secondaries. I'm guessing someone took the 81850 body and swapped out bowls and the throttle plate. Either way, it looks like a 4776.

Obviously missing a few screws and in need of a rebuild, but for the $50 I paid, I couldn't ask for much more. I'll find a suitable rebuild kit and clean it up nice. Any thoughts on the model or what you see below? (click images for full size)









Ian


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Hope it works out for you.


MBHD


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Been a while since I put an update on here so since I had some new part pictures I figured I'd throw them on. I've finished the body/paint, upgraded to power steering (tough to find parts) and swapped the rear suspension since my last update. Other than the power steering pump, the engine looks the same frown

Shortly after I purchased that Frankenstein'd Holly 600 DP carb I found a highly reviewed complete rebuild kit on sale on ebay for $60 so I scooped it. I had the seller add a few other parts that weren't in the kit (floats and stuff) just to make it actually "complete". I cleaned it up with simple green and rebuilt it. It's now wrapped and sealed in a box with some of those anti-moisture packets (to keep it fresh). Carb with rebuild kit total $110. I was too stunned to take pictures of the rebuilt carb but here is the kit I used...



I also acquired the rarest (read: cheap used) part on my list, the Offy 5416 intake. Got it off ebay for $100 shipped as it needs cleaning and a mounting bolt hole repair. It didn't look too bad to me (see bottom pic) but I have a friend who can fix it for free. The same guy who will fabricate the down pipe and assist with routing it all.









Sorry for the excessive pics, I like to document well and I will not let them go down as I hate broken images/links.

I just ordered a set of custom plug wires and intend to get that HEI installed in the next few weeks. Once that's in I think I'll be hitting some OT at work to buy the Turbo/BOV/Wastegate/Intercooler/Piping combo from CXRacing/CXMotorsports. I've been following their reviews for years now and aside from their intake manifolds they seem to produce solid components.

Thanks for the continued advice...

Ian

Last edited by Ian67; 03/23/15 01:34 AM.

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As a fellow 250 first gen owner I look forward to watching your build. Hopefully you'll stay a few steps ahead of me so I can cheat and copy off you.

Here's a pic of mine as she sits now (well... almost. I upgraded the wires recently. Smoothed out the idle quite a bit).



Same HEI. Same intake. I painted my intake Chevy orange and used a file to rub the paint off the raised letters and logo. Came out nice and easy to do.

That HEI is going to interfere with your fuel line. SHouldn't matter though with the new carb since you'll be running all new line anyway. Don't forget to remove the resister wire from the firewall to the HEI. Beyond that installation was easy. So far I've had no problems with it at all. It's big but it's a nice unit.

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With an HEI upgrade, remember to use a 10 gauge wire to it. Don't use the factory wire.

MBHD


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Originally Posted By: Mean buzzen half dozen A.K.A. Hank
With an HEI upgrade, remember to use a 10 gauge wire to it. Don't use the factory wire.

MBHD


Thanks for clarifying. That's what I did.

On another note: When I did mine I pulled the plug from the firewall (located below the brake booster), unwrapped the wire all the way to the split, removed the connection from the plug (I looked for instructions online but can't find them at the moment), connect the new wire to the plug, and re-tape it all. No new holes in the firewall. Factory look.

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Originally Posted By: gbauer
Originally Posted By: Mean buzzen half dozen A.K.A. Hank
With an HEI upgrade, remember to use a 10 gauge wire to it. Don't use the factory wire.

MBHD


Thanks for clarifying. That's what I did.

On another note: When I did mine I pulled the plug from the firewall (located below the brake booster), unwrapped the wire all the way to the split, removed the connection from the plug (I looked for instructions online but can't find them at the moment), connect the new wire to the plug, and re-tape it all. No new holes in the firewall. Factory look.


Thanks for the replies. Nice to see someone else is working on a similar project. I wouldn't hold your breath about me staying ahead, I took two years just to rebuild a carb and buy an intake. That being said, the engine is pretty much all that's left now. I like your orange/letters look. I've tossed and turned about orange or black for some time.

I'll confess I've read THESE INSTRUCTIONS about 15 times over the last two years but haven't gotten around to it. I'll be sure to pickup a piece of 10GA wire instead of the suggested 12-14GA in the linked article.

Ian

Last edited by Ian67; 03/23/15 08:00 PM.

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Okay, so I've arranged a budget for this and should be able to buy everything I need to finish the whole build by the end of the summer. I'll likely take the car off the road after summer to get it done.

Also, I've done some reading over the last couple years and have decided my original goals for boost/HP were a little higher than what I actually want/need. I'd like to obtain 300-350hp and from what I understand that can be attained with approximately 8-10#'s boost with my intended setup. (my original goal was 15#'s with a solid 400HP).

With my new goal in mind, I'd like to finalize my shopping list so I can be sure to get the right parts. I'm in Canada and will likely cross the line to pickup items as shipping to me is ridiculous. Here it is with predicted Canadian prices:

CXRacing Universal GT35 T4 Turbo 3" w/Comp @ .70 & Turb @ .68 - $400;
CXRacing 31x12x3 Bar/Plate Intercooler w/3" Piping Kit - $275;
Spectre 9849 Single 4" Carb Plenum - $100;
12bolt / ROSS Forged Pistons - $700;
DevilsOwn Alcohol injection Kit DSM Stage 1 - $300;
Universal Blow off valve with 3" adapter flange - $50;
SPA Turbo 35MM adjustable wastegate - $75;
Air/boost gauge - $50;
Oil/Fuel lines & other <$30 parts;


292 exhaust manifold - $100;
Offy 5416 intake manifold $100;
Holley 600cfm 4776 DP Carb - $100 Rebuilt;
HEI Distributor w/65000w Coil - $80;


The above list puts me out a solid $2400 on parts. Obviously machine shop and other parts (cool windshield pillar gauge pod) will be extra.

I may still decide to pickup a Devils Own Water/Meth kit but I'm just not sure I need it given my new goal. Also, I originally planned to pickup a new cam from 12bolt.com, but I'm not sure it's needed as apparently the stock cam does well enough? I think I can get away with modding my fuel pump with a boost reference, especially since I just installed a new fuel pump a month ago. Any thoughts on my choices? Please feel free to point out even obvious missing parts from my list as I'm not as smart as you'd think and might not know I need it.

Ian

Last edited by Ian67; 03/26/15 03:18 PM.

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Looks like good sized turbo, the carb hat, I would look for the ones that has a split runner inside as to direct the airflow better to the primary and secondaries.
Stock cam is too anemic and will severely limit the engines output.


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Well if it's going to make a significant difference, I'm happy to add a new cam/lifters. I've found these two, any thoughts or recommendations?

CompCams Magnum™ Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft - $235 CAN

12Bolt Small Lift Turbo and RV Type Camshaft - $300 CAN

Ian


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I would not go with either one of those cams.

Using a methanol injection kit will make it safer to run when boosting.

You can run a smaller jet & it will make your intake charge really cool & not add so much methanol as to change the Air/Fuel ratio.

Pic of a better design carb hat.
http://www.theturboforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=599312&d=1351543771

You do not need to buy an off the shelf camshaft from Comp Cams, you can tell them what you are building & they can recommend a camshaft for you.

I would look for something around .480-.500" lift range.
204-212 range degrees duration @ .050"
And have lobe separation on a 114-116 range.

MBHD


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Thanks for the input. I've decided to get the stage 1 DevilsOwn kit as it's priced fairly and will give me the added saftey and cooling I want.

That Extreme Velocity hat you posted is great, but why can't it be half the price like the Spectre one. I get the EV's are supposed to flow the best, but when the cost is twice as much I have to start wondering when I'm spending beyond my means. I will keep my eyes open for a used divided EV for now.

The 12bolt cam I posted before is:
Lift .488
Duration 212 @ .050
113 Lobe separation

Maybe I'm reading it wrong but aside from the lobe separation, it seems to be within the range you suggested. Again, a little on the pricier side than direct from comp, but a good pick otherwise right?

Thanks for your help,

Ian


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I do not like the split duration on that camshaft & would like a wider lobe separation than 113. That other carb hat will work, just not as good IMO.


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How about this cam:

Isky 231-TA Turbo Cycle A @ flatlanderracing.com
Maximum economy/torque. Turbocharges. Up to 7 PSI Boost. Smooth idle. Stock converter. Std. axle ratio. Up to 650 CFM Carb. RPM-Range (1000-5000) Valve Lift (.485 .455) Valve Lash hot (.000 .000) ADV Duration (264 252) .050 Duration (208 194) LC 114 231-TA $195

I think I'll go with the spectre hat unless I can find a used EV one. Is an easy swap if I decide to upgrade in the future. Would rather spend the money on internals that won't be in easy access. I think I'll get the cheaper hat and get myself a lump kit with the savings. My father in law says he has the required taps and bits needed for the install so it's bang for buck seems like a no brainer.

Ian

Last edited by Ian67; 03/27/15 06:08 PM.

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That cam is OK, it will spool the turbo quick, but, I like a camshaft with even exhaust & intake duration.

That camshaft will not make much HP.

Do you just want to have low end power & not much top end power?

MBHD


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I'm more interested in consistent power while maintaining decent fuel economy. Daily driver cruising but good torque and power when mashing the gas. I'm constantly watching and reading articles on cams but so far the specs mean almost nothing to me.

Ian


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If that's the case, I would go with the last cam you posted.
Isky 231-TA Turbo Cycle A

7 PSI is not much boost pressure, you can really feel it when you see 10-12 PSI.
Don't get me wrong, you will feel 7 PSi also, just kinda ho hum with only 7 PSI, that 7 PSI is at the point where you are just going to want more & more.


MBHD


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Yeah, I saw that and wondered if it would be limiting. I'd rather get a cam that would support higher boost if/when I decide to push the envelope. For now I'll be happy with 300'ish HP but that might not last as my goals change.

I wouldn't have expected formulating a shopping list to be this hard... But I'm having fun with all the learning.

Ian

Edit: what do we think of this other 12bolt cam? A bit more lift but lobe is ideal:
Medium lift Turbo Camshaft
This cam is a special custom grind for turbo use. RPM Idle- 5000. Idle quality is good with a noticable sound. Will also work good as a non turbo cam. Custom ground by Competition Cams.
Hydraulic lifter
Lift .521 Intake and .512 exhaust
Duration @ .050 218 Intake and 212 Exhaust
114 Lobe separation.

Last edited by Ian67; 03/28/15 03:00 AM.

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Ian67,
My first cam you listed is not a split duration unit. Works great for general street use and will provide good fuel mileage.

Infact, installed it is in the 250 the boy and I are using in the 41 Hudson pickup. No plans for turboing it, yet.

My second cam is the same one used in the Elco. This one is split duration. It get's 17-18MPG going 70-75 at about 2500 rpm. Just had a customer use this one and get 450 hp and 497 tq in a 292. He is putting it into a early 50's Chevy pickup.

Last edited by tlowe #1716; 03/28/15 10:20 AM.

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Just to be clear, we're talking about the Isky 231-TA Turbo Cycle A?

I just woke up and it reads a little foggy to me.

Thanks hank


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Ian,

The Isky 231-TA Turbo Cycle A cam will most likely give you the best mileage between all the camshaft choices you posted.

HP wise, it will be one of the lowest.
I think that turbo camshaft has been around since the 70's. old school turbo type specs.
Split duration though. Again, not a fan really.

Need to know exactly what HP goal you would want to grow into & not change the camshaft during the process., if I am reading you correctly?

I am not a fan of a split duration camshaft for a turbo app.
So I would not recommend one.

Use a camshaft with a wide lobe center of 116 & wider for a better way to go IMO, it will give you the mileage you are looking for & still be able to make good power.

Camshaft specs for drag racing will be different than what you are looking for.

HP & TQ dyno numbers are just numbers & just bragging rights.
Lets post some ET & MPH numbers.
The 65 Elky makes how much HP/TQ & what MPH & ET with the Comp Cam you are currently using?
292, turbocharged ,intercooled, EFI, 3:55's, 62-1 Turbo, SPA turbo manifold, Clifford intake, straight pipe exhaust, no muffler, what else does it have?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fz2UaM3i-gQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1TtDeFfzZs

With this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NU7n3kOWe8

I always wondered why he has a Offy intake on it?
After all the engine dyno testing proving the Clifford intake the better choice, (putting myths to rest about the intakes) made the most HP etc, etc, yet, install a lesser performing intake manifold? Never ever recommending an Offy intake for any application, he only recommends a Clifford. laugh
Does not make sense.

All I have ever said , each intake has there design purposes.
This intake design looks much better than a Clifford.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161462168269?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

MBHD


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Hank,

I put on the Offy intake for the wagon, like has been said before, it was the only heated intake available at the time.
Why don't you offer up some real world testing?

My Elco in 2008 made 243 HP at the tires and 320 Ft lbs( I think), since then it had dividers installed in the intake ports and much tuning. Not sure on the power now. Street car, not drag car.

Hank says
"HP & TQ dyno numbers are just numbers & just bragging rights.
Lets post some ET & MPH numbers."

You always talk about the old days and how fast your car felt. And how it did against your buddy's car. Sounds like bragging rights to me.

How good does your Camaro do in the 1/4? Not seat of the pants, time slips.

Last edited by tlowe #1716; 03/29/15 01:23 AM.

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My street car daily driver Camaro, way back, ran 14.3's @ a 3000ft + altitude track. Not fast in my book, not bragging by any means. I thought it was slow as I kept on getting beat by most V-8's at the track.
It was really a nothing special 250 6 cylinder, but I kept tuning & tuning, R&D to try & get the most out of it.

4 bbl carb, headers 10:1 compression.
Have time slips.
YouTube was not around then to post videos. wink

I never ran my faster combinations @ a track because when you street race you don't go to tracks for everyone to see your times. Even though you can put no time on your windows, guys in the tower would still post them accidently.

In the real world of street racing, not dyno racing, I have raced & lost many times.
I once owned a 1970 Dodge Dart 340 Scat pack package.
Took that to the rack & ran 14.2-14.6's
With that car I raced a 1969 440 GTX Roadrunner & lost be 5-6 car lengths @ the finish.
The following week same car, 440 GTX guy asked me if I wanted to race, I was hesitant, because I did not know (at the time how my Camaro would run)so I said sure, we lined up & I beat him really bad on the launch, he just gave up, he asked to run again, so we raced again, this time full 1/4 mile pass & I beat him by over 10 car lengths.
Sorry no time slips & is just hear say.
This was when I used to run a Nitrous plate system on it., Nobody could see it because I made an aluminum sheet metal cover that covered the entire intake manifold.
This same GTX Road Runner would clean house normally @ the street races, it was a pretty quick car & was not stock.
One of my prouder moments back in the day.
Street racing back them were done on low to zero traffic industrial streets, not like what you see kids street today with cars all around & innocent bystanders.

As far as my friends I raced against on the street, not really bragging, just saying about what my car could do when racing a good friend that would go to the track 2-4 times a month.
Very good comparison in my book, no seat of the pants feel to it when you race against a car that goes to the track 2-4 times a month, (very consistent car & driver BTW).

The only time my Camaro felt moderately fast to me was when I had a Paxton supercharger on it, approx. mid to low 12's not blazingly fast, not bragging, no time slips, to show. Sorry to disappoint.

Maybe 12's are really fast to you?

My Car just sits & rots away, so no new time slips shocked
When ever it gets to run again, it will still be a street car.
Never ever wanted it to be a drag car, was always set-up to handle good, lowered, front & rear anti sway bars, Koni shocks BBC front coil springs.

How is your 65 El Camino drag car coming along?

320 C.I.ish 4.125" bore, 12 port head, should run 13's? laugh

All in good fun.

MBHD




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All good videos and information. I'll obviously be sticking with the offy for 3 reasons... It's heated for my daily driving, it's the cheapest and I already have one.

As far as cams go, I can't seem to find anything that perfectly matches your recommendations. I've got emails into Isky and compcams about their recommendations and the potential of a custom cam. I really want to achieve at least 300hp. If I could get more into 325-350 that would be great. In the long run I'd like to get a cam that won't hold me back if some day I upped the boost to get closer to 400. I'm not sure I ever will, but I don't want to be limited by internals. I can deal with needing more turbo, meth or octane but the cam/lifters and head work should be ready for 300-400hp with a focus on acceleration at mid speeds. I don't need it to do tire smoking burnouts but I want a wicked "passing gear" type performance out of it. I hope this sheds some light on may goal.

I just re-read the last 5 posts and noticed TLowe replied about his cams and I missed it somehow. I appreciate the info on those two cams. I'll likely go with the 2nd one you mentioned unless one of the cam company replies lead me astray.

Ian

Ps... If it can't chirp tires I'll cry inside cry


67' Camaro - Performance 250 build - www.TurboCamaro.ca
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