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I'm a little frustrated right now.

I had to have my intake welded up... the mounting to sandwich the two manifolds together. It had been cut off to fit headers.

Anyway, so I was drilling a pilot hole and got 2/3 of the way through. Doesn't the drill bit break. I thought I got the piece out, but as it turns out it had broken into 3 pieces and I only got the one.

Needless to say, as soon as my drill bit hit that piece, the hole went off center and cut right into the soft aluminum. Being the idiot I am, I think I can correct it by using a large bit to realign the hole. No bueno. But don't stop there. Keep going out of frustration and finish the hole! Now the hole is off by about 3/16" and the piece of bit is still in there blocking me from elongating the hole!
Now i have to try and cut the piece out so i can elongate the hole.

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If you can mount it on mill Use a end mill bit to get it out.


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Well. I got the piece of drill bit out.
I also got the hole elongated.
The manifolds don't fit together quite right....if I get them to fit tight to each other, the mounting to the head of off. If I get the head mounting right, the don't sit tight to each other.
I am going to open the third hole slightly to see if that makes the difference. I sure hope so because this is all that is holding me up!

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On a car such as mine, with very limited space for an intercooler.... would it make sense to use an air/liquid intercooler and have it at the side of the engine bay?

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An air to air system is much easier to install & maintain.

Are you sure you want an air to water intercooler?

An intercooler can be placed other places other than in front of the engines radiator.

What car do you have, early Nova?

MBHD


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Yes, Hank, I have a 65 Chevy II.
If I remove the hood latch bracket, I can fit a 27"x7"x2" but then i would have to pin the hood.
A friend suggested using two smaller coolers and join them with a 2.5" tube. Put one on either side of the hood latch. I haven't been able to find any small enough.

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Maybe something like this could work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-300ZX-VG30D...fa1&vxp=mtr

I would think there has to be room for a intercooler.
Probably need to cut the radiator core support for air to go through.

MBHD


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Those would be nice, but I can't afford 'em!

I think I found a smaller one that will fit with minimal modification .

I have to do some more measuring.

I started mocking up brackets. Hope I can make them out of steel soon!

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What kind of maintenance does the air to liquid intercooler require? Regular flushing?
I'm just having a hard time figuring where to put an air to air.
The air to liquid is an easy placement!

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Remember, you need a pump to move the coolant. A continuous duty pump.

You also need to install a radiator to cool the liquid.
Hoses, clamps etc.
Pumps stop working, = more maintenance, moving parts, liquid, can leak, things that will require maintenance.

A reservoir is a good idea for extra water.

In a 1/4 mile, a air to water intercooler gets heat soaked & towards the end of the 1/4 mile the temps will rise.

With an air to air, temps will also be higher during the beginning, but as you go on your 1/4 mile run, the air temps will actually drop to a cooler temp.

Now, unless you have an air to water intercooler with an ice chest full of ice cold water, then with that scenario, it will be more efficient & actually be below ambient temperature, depending on boost level etc.

What size is the air to water intercooler? Where would you place that?
Got a pic or link for the air to water intercooler?

My air to water intercooler has 2, 7" Spal fans behind the cooling radiator for the intercoolers liquid.
If I did not have the fans, the air to water intercooler would really heat soak while being stuck in traffic or long lines @ a race track before I get to make a pass.

All the extra parts not to mention the water, the weight starts to add up for an air to water system.

MBHD


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That is a whole lot more than I was thinking.
I thoughtIit was plumbed in with the radiator to keep the temp at steady.

Scratch that thought!

It's just going to take significant mods to put and air cooler in. Certainly not as simple as put it in place and drill some holes.

It starts adding up that meth injection is the way to go. I k ow there are consumables and moving parts. I'm just a little stuck. What I can afford makes a lot of work.

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No, you do not use the engines coolant system, well, you could, but your intake temps will always be hot.

IIRC, the radiator core support has room to cut a hole in it for a small intercooler, no?

Methanol injection will allow you run more boost , run more timing, than just using an intercooler alone will allow you to run.
That being said, methanol injection is great & all, but, if that system fails, plugged nozzle, run out if methanol, loose wire, etc, your engine can go away very quickly.
There are fail safe add on components you can use to save your engine from blowing up.
Example: http://www.snowperformance.net/Snow-Performance-Safe-Injection-Unit-p/30020.htm

Adding a simple air to air intercooler, will always be there to lower your intake temps. No working devices, no moving parts.
I would add an intercooler just to have peace of mind knowing you will always something there to help reduce the chances of detonation.
There has to be a way to install one on your Nova, just need to be creative I guess?

MBHD

Originally Posted By: dodgycanuck
That is a whole lot more than I was thinking.
I thoughtIit was plumbed in with the radiator to keep the temp at steady.

Scratch that thought!

It's just going to take significant mods to put and air cooler in. Certainly not as simple as put it in place and drill some holes.

It starts adding up that meth injection is the way to go. I k ow there are consumables and moving parts. I'm just a little stuck. What I can afford makes a lot of work.


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I do agree with you on the intercooler!
Nothing to really go wrong with a simple air cooler!

What is holding me back is having to move the battery to the trunk, move the voltage regulator, remove the hood latch assembly and pin the hood.

My car only has 40000 miles on it and is in pretty good shape. I wanted to limit the amount of modification done in case the car is to be returned to original.

I will have to sort something out!

So much for a May 1st deadline! That ship has sailed. Now I'm going to just poke away until I'm good and ready. 😔

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As far as the voltage regulator goes, you can switch to an internal regulated alternator, gets rid of the external regulator & will perform better.

I did this swap on my Camaro, but forgot what wire to switch, not much to it.
Anyone here know off hand?

http://www.wallaceracing.com/alt-conversion.html

Projects always take longer than you expect them to.
Unless you live at home with parents, no kids & have no bills to pay. laugh

MBHD


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When you do not have room to fit the intercooler up front, you relocate down below & make a scoop like this unit from Kenne Bell
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=102597


MBHD


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Got my bracket welded up last night. Already need to modify it... forgot about the alternator. Whoops.
Oh well. Progress is progress!

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Bracket is done.
Turbo is mounted.
J - pipe is almost finished.
I need to get a different welding helmet and my auto darkening doesn't work without the pulsing of the light. I'm not using the pedal on the tig. Just controlling my puddle.
Should have a new helmet tonight and can finish the j - pipe. Hopefully I can get the tube I need today and can also mount the wastegate.

Question: is a wastegate necessary when using a BOV? Follow my logic... the wastegate controls how fast the turbine spins (controlling boost). The BOV controls over boost when the throttle blades are shut quickly. If the wastegate and BOV are both set at 7psi, won't they both open at more or less the same time? Seems redundant. Couldn't you just use the BOV to control pressure a?nd keep the turbo creating boost?

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I would recommend both.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wastegate

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blowoff_valve

You need to control the RPM of the turbocharger, otherwise you can have catastrophic failure. Hence, you need a wastegate.

Your logic, is not logical. wink

My Syclone did not have a BOV from the factory & would get compressor surge when closing the throttle valve, sounds kinda odd when it does this. Not really good for the turbo.
The excess pressurized air is actually going backwards through the turbocharger when the throttle blade is closed.

Puts a load on the turbo also.

I installed a larger compressor wheel & then I installed a BOV to be on the safe side, plus will have less tendency of blowing off couplers, hoses, clamps etc, when using a BOV.



MBHD

BTW, we needs pics of your progress.


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I have both an WILL use them. I just wondered if it would work.
After talking about it out loud, I realize that a bov would Prolly cycle almost the entire time in boost if there were no wastegate to control turbine speed.

As for pictures. .. I have the worst time posting them here 😕
they are too large.

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STOKED!!!
Got the j - pipe finished up tonight, including the wastegate flange!!!
Need to make oil lines, and the carb hat with BOV flange, modify fuel pump and distributor and I can install!!!

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Great!!!

Still need pics, even if they are too small.



MBHD


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Can anyone help me post pictures.... I'm having trouble getting them small enough to be uploaded.

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I use photobucket to post pics, what site are you using?

MBHD


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I don't use a site... I just try to upload from my phone.
Last time I emailed the pictures to my work phone at 30% size and then emailed them back to my personal phone at 30% of that size. Probably why they are so small.

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You might want to start using a website so you will be able to post pics easily.

Just a thought.

MBHD


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Originally Posted By: dodgycanuck
Can anyone help me post pictures.... I'm having trouble getting them small enough to be uploaded.

To post them on any forum you are required to use a photo hosting website such as photobucket or imageshack. Forum software is not set up to use any other method to display pictures, so you will have to create an account with one of those sites to do this.



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I have no patience for photo bucket... I have an account with the but I can't share the link frown

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Couple of questions...
I'm making some good progress but need some guidance.

I am using 94 octane gas. All the time. And it willl be quite rich.
Will i need to back the timing off?
I have not figured out an intercooler just yet. I'm still reading about liquid to air. Everything I'm looking at is going to need a fair amount of modification.

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I forgot to mention....
this confirmation will not exceed 7 psi.

Also, I will be using an oil cooler. Should p
I plumb it ~engine to cooler to turbo to engine?

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Confirmation. Bwahahaha!
ConFIGuration!

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<iframe width="480" heigyht="360" src="http://s943.photobucket.com/user/dodgycanuck/embed/slideshow/Mobile%20Uploads"></iframe>

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let's try this one...

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Huzzah, huzzah!
Now I will take some more pictures to post!!!

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Hooray, a pic! cool

This one is nice!

http://s943.photobucket.com/user/dodgycanuck/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150604_230749.jpg.html

At a 90 degree angle, your wastegate is not at the best angle for flow, it will work, just not as good as it could.

Here is my downpipe.

If you look @ the angle the exhaust enters the wastegate & how the bypassed exhaust re-enters the downpipe @ a shallow angle.

MBHD


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I understand about the angle it enters the wastegate... I guess the thing I have been struggling with on this build is that it is on a mock up engine out gothe car . I have had a bit of a hard time with fitment.
Oh well, version 1.0!
I've never touched turbo before so this is a steep learning curve.
I'm about ready to install in the car, but have to keep in mind that it will be out of service until it is done! Potentially a large time commitment I cannot make just yet.

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OK,
do you understand the angle to re-enter your downpipe?, that is important also.

It is difficult planning & laying out the plumbing/piping etc in order to install a turbo.
Needing to pull out an engine just to mock things up takes time.
I understand all too well.

The reason I have wanting for you to post pics is so we can help out with your install, critique it.
Not to be little you in any way.

Some take offence when being critiqued, that is not my intensions.

I do not have all the answers, but as a group, I am sure we can all put in our 2 cents.

Keep it going!

MBHD



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Can't say I've ever been offended.
The whole reason I post here is for the wealth return. wledge available!

As for the angle of re-entry... that is to not slow the exhaust flow in any way (which could case lag), correct?!?

I had planned on having the exhaust system installed before I figure the wastegate return.
Would it be the end of the world to vent to atmosphere? Noisy, yes. But drawbacks?

Any specific pictures required?

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Originally Posted By: dodgycanuck


As for the angle of re-entry... that is to not slow the exhaust flow in any way (which could case lag), correct?!?

Not to make a turbulent entry of the exhaust, if too close to the turbine wheel can cause the turbo to slow down.
The further downstream from the turbine wheel the better.
Minimum 18" to re-enter the wastegate exhaust back into the downpipe.

I had planned on having the exhaust system installed before I figure the wastegate return.
Would it be the end of the world to vent to atmosphere? Noisy, yes. But drawbacks?

No, it would be fine, just is loud and sounds like A$$ IMO laugh
No drawbacks, gets soot wherever the exhaust is pointing.

Any specific pictures required?


No specific pics, but if you do not know something, ask first before you cut holes/weld, could save you some time & material?

Just post pics as you go.

MBHD



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have a bit of a problem here... anyone see what it is?
Anyone have a solution?
Wonder if I can fill the unused space with something like jb weld?

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Maybe you just need the right adaptor. Try this. It says for weber carbs but it also has a bolt pattern for Holley 2 bbl.

http://www.shop.cliffordperformance.net/2-Barrel-Adaptor-08-1013A.htm

Last edited by tlowe #1716; 07/07/15 12:37 AM.

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