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The 10 PSI means, that approx 10 PSI is the minimum of boost pressure your engine will see.
If you hook up a hose onto the wastegate fitting, apply 10 psi, the wastegate will start to open.

So anything over 10 psi of boost pressure, the wastegate will be open, & will be vented to wherever you have plumbed the wastegate piping to., Back into the downpipe, separate mini wastegate exhaust system.

Note: If you plan on having the wastegate exhaust plumb back into the downpipe, you will want to have it join into the downpipe further back( further away from the turbine wheel)
Minimum 18" downstream of the turbine wheel.

The way the exhaust enters the wastegate is important also as important the way the wastegate exhaust is introduced into the downpipe.

Here is mine.





This one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/38MM-2-BOLT-RS-S...406&vxp=mtr

Minimum boost pressure can be 5 ,10, or 15 PSI, by changing out the wastegate springs accordingly.

I would get one (wastegate) that has a few wastegate springs so you have the ability to adjust whatever boost pressure you would like.
10 PSI of boost is a bit high, just to start off with.
You need to start off with a lower boost pressure, just to be safe & gradually add boost pressure when you get your tune figured out better.

MBHD




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@MBHD

Thank you for clarifying the psi spec. I recall now the SPA Turbo brand wastegate I chose was adjustable to allow some control of boost.

The one you posted looks good but for consistency I've sent a message to Wyntonm asking if theirs are adjustable, and if so, if I could add some springs to the order. Would be great to get even more options 3-5-8-10-12-15. Especially the lower numbers as I figure it all out.

I've got it in my head I want to stick with 3" piping wherever possible, is that smart or would 2.5" be acceptable for my goals? I'll need all new exhaust anyway so I may as well do 3" but it could save me a few bucks if all I needed was 2.5".

Ian


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Forgot what your power goal was?

A 2.5" downpipe will work OK, that is what my stock downpipe Syclone has, but I would like to have a 3" downpipe.

On a turbocharged engine , you do not want any exhaust restrictions, no matter what some people say about needing exhaust backpressure, don't listen to them.

I would go with a 3" mandrel bent exhaust , all the way.


MBHD


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My power goal is (currently) around 325hp... give or take 25hp. I will be going with the 3" pipe as it's easy to just buy and replace everything with 3" and be done with it. I like the future proofing idea of 3" anyway.

I've spent several hours reviewing my choices and snagged a deal on the original SPA Turbo Wastegate I wanted for about $70. It's has a 6-20psi variable adjustment nut on top that fits my needs well. Would have been nice to set it below 6 but... I was considering a low of 5 with the other one, so whats 1 more gonna hurt wink

I looked further at the Wyntonm 44mm BOV and discovered inliners member, Boucher used it on his 250 and supported it with a clip on Youtube. For the price and the seemingly decent reputation among budget turbo brands, I went for it for $54.

Anyone know if I can use flat top forged pistons out of a Chevy 307? I may have a line on a NOS set and it seems the bore sizes match but I'd hate to grab them and be disappointed by a lack of compatibility. I have found several sources indicating they are interchangeable, but not specifically related to turbo builds.

Ian


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I have used forged flat top 307 SBC pistons.
Low compression ones & higher compression ones.

These are the higher compression ones: http://www.ebay.com/itm/L2314F-PISTON-TRW-FORGED-060-OVER-NON-COATED-SKIRTS-/311097672858

Lower compression ones:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/307-CHEVY-FORGED...748&vxp=mtr

The lower compression pistons have a design that will expose the top ring more so over the higher compression pistons do.

You can use either one IMO.
I would use the higher compression ones, if you have the choice, but the lower compressions pistons will work fine for the power level you are looking for (not much boost needed)

I have used the lower compression 307 forged TRW's & ran a lot of nitrous though the engine & had a lot of bad detonation going on at times & they stayed together just fine..

MBHD


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I appreciate the explanations and examples provided.

I found this set of what appears to be interchangeable forged pistons. I've confirmed the interchangeability on a couple sites but what I'm not sure about is their condition. Looks like they've been sitting in a worn box for their whole life and may need some tlc. I've sent a message to the seller about it but with the pics provided, are they usable?

Ian


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Those are cast pistons.

The links I posted are forged pistons.

MBHD


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Bah, I noted they were interchangeable with the high compression forged ones, but obviously they don't need to be forged to be interchangeable.

I'll have to keep my eye open for a set of forged ones. Unfortunately that seller you listed only has 1.

I've seen a couple offenhauser carb hats and really like the look of them. If anyone here has one or knows a good source for one please let me know.

Thanks,

Ian


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I had originally replied with a long speech about how I don't know anything about pistons but it was too sad to leave posted, so I've stayed up late to learn about pistons so I could answer somewhat intelligently.

Can I use them... Maybe? The engine runs well and with no known issues. That being said, I have no idea what mileage has been put on it and I've never had it apart. It's very possible the cylinders are in mint condition and will require no work, allowing the std bore. However they could be worn, or bored by a previous owner.

I guess the real question is, what oversized piston should I get that will work in almost any situation? I've noticed some of the ones listed here so far have been .060" over, which seems to be above average. I expect a shop could bore the cylinders to fit the pistons but a shame to bore that much if they only need .015" or whatever. I have made calls and do not have a machine shop locally, so the most efficient option would be to get my car off the road in a few months and let the machine shop tell me what size to get. However that might not work either as the block will be sent off island and getting pistons to them could be very time consuming.

Can oversized forged pistons be shaved down to a smaller size? Better yet, can I buy +.060" pistons and have the shop shave them down to the appropriate size once they know what that is?

Ian


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Originally Posted By: Ian67
Can oversized forged pistons be shaved down to a smaller size? Better yet, can I buy +.060" pistons and have the shop shave them down to the appropriate size once they know what that is?


No, pistons are not perfect cylinders and have some taper to them, particularly at the crown.

Dollar for dollar, the best price per value on pistons is Tlowe's .040" forged pistons. Unless you have some rare block just bore it. The only real shame in boring a turbo engine is the thinning of the cylinder walls, so you may want to sonic check the block first. If the walls are already thin, it probably isn't a very good block to use as a turbo engine to begin with.

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I do like the idea of going over .040" and boring the cylinders over to suit. I originally planned to (and still may) buy Tlowe's pistons as I appreciate brand new items with modern fabrication. Also they are readily available, which seems to be the main problem with this NOS stuff as it's obviously hard to find and I'm late to the race. For quick reference, I've made a list of known compatible flat top forged pistons:

L2314F - high compression 307 pistons (+/-$250)
L2402F - low compression 307 pistons (+/-$250)
12bolt's Ross 250 pistons ($600)
Sissellautomotive's 250 pistons ($625)

The list is currently in priority purchase order. If it gets close to rebuild time and I haven't found a good NOS set I will definitely get the 12bolt set. They probably are the best quality choice (even tho I know nothing of Sisselautomotive's product) but this build is going to have inevitable cost issues and I need to be cheap whenever possible.

Ian


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Purchased the CXRacing turbo I've been stalking since the thread started. I noticed the seller has been upping their prices over the years and the original $270 priced auction was about to sell out so I committed. To preserve it's details (as auctions end and sellers disappear), here are the specs:

CXRacing Item #CXM-TRB-GT35-2-T4-68 GT35 Turbo Charger, with Anti-Surge Air Inlet

Air Inlet: 4"
Compressed Air Outlet: 2.5"
Bearing: Journal Bearing
Turbine Housing Flange: Standard T4
Exhaust Outlet: 3” Vband
HP: 300~500 WHP
Cooling: Oil & Water
Working Pressure: 6-25 PSI
Compressor: .70 A/R
Turbine: .68 A/R
Compressor Wheel: 61.3 /82 mm
Turbine Wheel: 62 /67.8 mm



Ian


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Specs look like that will work nicely for you.

IIRC, your turbo is just a tad larger than the one Snowman had on his stock 250 turbo build.

MBHD


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I've been looking at intercoolers for the last 4 hours on eBay. The real estate behind the grille on my Camaro is quite limited as the lower bumper/hood latch support goes right up the middle and after some deliberation, I do not want to hack on it too much. So, The driver side alone allows for approximately 20"x13"x3.5". So I've found an intercooler measuring 18"x12"x3" with 3" inlet/outlets. I understand it's a bit on the small side but will it suffice for my needs? It will only cover 50% of the radiator which is a bonus. My only other option would to get a longer narrow one but it would need to be 2.5" thick instead of 3" and that means the inlet/outlet sizes get smaller too. Even going down to 2.5" thick means I will have to hack around an inch off the metal support. If I'm running 3" pipes everywhere it seems a shame to drop a 2.5" intercooler in. What do we think?



Ian

Last edited by Ian67; 06/20/15 01:40 AM.

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One thing to consider is pressure drop from the intercooler.
I did not see any specs on pressure drop for that intercooler.
Running an intercooler that is 2.5 inches inlet & outlet is fine, as long as there is not that much pressure drop.

You can have an intercooler with 3" inlet & outlet & have more of a pressure drop than a better designed intercooler with 2.5" inlet & outlets.

I do not think you will have cooling problems running a intercooler that is approx the same size as your engine radiator.
especially with a 2.5" thickness core.

I would want a thinner core intercooler that has more surface area over a thicker core intercooler that would only use half available airflow space.

How much boost are you planning on running?

If you do not plan on running that much boost, a intercooler with 2" inlet & outlets can work fine with 2" pipe plumbing for the intercooler & that will give you even more room.

Smaller & shorter runs of piping will have less turbo lag also.

MBHD


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I am on a long weekend and typing on a phone.
One other thing to take into consideration on pistons. You will also need rings. All my piston kits come with rings.
Not on my site yet but in stock is another 250 piston choice. It is a lower compression unit and has a 18CC dish. Provides 8.5 ish with a 70CC chamber. In .040.


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@MBHD - Thanks for the information on it. I was back and forth about overall size vs piping size. Either way, I've got some questions pending on a couple 28"x9"x2.75" intercoolers with 2.5" inlet/outlet.

@TLOWE - The more I think about it the more I want to save a few extra dollars and buy your modern/new pistons. What sort of performance difference would I see between your different 250 pistons? Also, are the prices the same? I appreciate your response, especially on a weekend with a smartphone.

Something I've been meaning to ask about pistons, would going lower compression make it likely I could get away with regular pump gas, or am I destined for premium fuel regardless of compression at this point?

Thanks,

Ian


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If you run low boost you can run regular pump gas w/a engine of having 8.5:1.

You could go to 9.0:1 also with low boost & conservative timing on regular pump gas.

The advantages to aftermarket pistons over NOS forged TRW 307 pistons?
Normally, they will be lighter, if designed correctly, larger/better quench area = less chance of detonation.
Better ring package.
So, a better designed aftermarket piston should give you more power, it is not going to be a day & night difference in power.

Just make sure you get close to a zero deck height.

If you go too low on the compression, mileage suffers, turbo response is slower, (slower to get into boost).

If you just limit your boost to say approx 10 - 12 PSI I would run closer to 9.0:1 & run premium pump gas.

MBHD


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Yeah, I don't care much about having to pay a few more bucks for fuel, and I don't want to sacrifice much on power, mileage and overall durability. Those lower compression pistons would have to be $300 or less to make me consider them at this point. It's between the 12bolt ones and a deal on the old 2314's.

I had a 66 & 69 Impala both sitting around the 320hp mark and I was always comfortable with that as a daily driver for power and mileage. I'd like to get back to that range again with my 250, so I want to run whatever boost I need to get to that range. People have mentioned as little as 6 and as much as 15. I don't have the expertise to estimate the required boost to get these components to that level. Either way, I will get higher compression pistons to support the potential for higher power goals.

Ian


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Another update, I've added an intercooler and aluminum piping kit to my parts bin. I'll list the parts below with more detail. Couple questions at bottom as well.

I paid $100 for a FMP Racing 28"x9"x2.5" T6061 Polished Aluminum Bar & Plate Intercooler with 2.5" inlet/outlets. It lists a Compressed air flow rate of 600cubic feet/min and a pressure drop: 0.2-0.5 at 15PSI. Since I'll be keeping it near 10# boost it should be fairly efficient. It was tough to find an intercooler that was 2.5" thick with the same size inlets. I found several 2.75" thick with 2" inlets but I wanted to keep the flow as high as possible while keeping a narrow width. This intercooler should fit right in front of the radiator but low enough to not interfere with the hood latch assembly. It should allow the top 8" or so of radiator to remain exposed as well, which is good for cooling I'm sure.

<-- Clickable

Then I grabbed a $101 set of 3" Polished Aluminum piping by CXRacing. Nothing special here really but I liked that CXRacing was my Turbo brand and provided 2mm thick pipes, a lot of the other similar kits were 1.5 and some 1.8 so these should be fairly sturdy. I went polished as the intercooler and BOV pipe were both polished. I'll surely need some more for the downpipe fab, but we'll cross that bridge later.

<-- Clickable

I've got an email in to CompCams for the custom cam grind (218/218 .499/.499 on a 114 lobe separation) and lifters they recommended a couple months ago. I'll sign off on the specs and pay tomorrow. If anyone thinks this will not due my build justice, please speak now.

My budget system auto-saves me $100 a week. I need about 2-3 weeks to afford Tlowe's forged pistons and lump kit. I assume my stock 250 has cast 5.7" rods? Remembering I have a flimsy budget, will they work for this setup? My research indicates they will hold unless I start pushing more than 6500rpm, which I don't see happening.

Thanks for all the help,

Ian


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My stock rods have seen 8,000 rpms for many years and have lasted. with a 13-1 compression.


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Originally Posted By: Ian67
I've got an email in to CompCams for the custom cam grind (218/218 .499/.499 on a 114 lobe separation) and lifters they recommended a couple months ago. I'll sign off on the specs and pay tomorrow. If anyone thinks this will not due my build justice, please speak now.

I assume my stock 250 has cast 5.7" rods? My research indicates they will hold unless I start pushing more than 6500rpm, which I don't see happening.

Thanks for all the help,

Ian


Not sure if you can get a wider lobe center?
I would go to a 116, but a 114 will work fine.

Stock rods are forged, it's not a Pontiac 350 V-8. = cast rods sick laugh

Normally I would turn to 6000-6500 RPMs on stock rods, with the Paxton super charger combo, it would have power up to 7500 RPM's.

Note: My stock rods were side grinded, polished shot peened & checked for cracks. Resized big end & ARP rod bolts installed.

Never blew up a stock Chevy 250 rod, they work pretty good.

MBHD


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There are guys making ~650-700+HP with 2.5" inlet/outlet intercoolers on V8's, so should work pretty good. I've been looking at the same IC kits.

Have a set of OE rods magnafluxed to check for cracks, but otherwise they should be pretty durable if the tune is good and arp bolts used. I'm "hoping" to put 600HP through stock rods. At least the first turbo L6 I assemble will be stock rods capped with forged pistons.

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Thanks for the info on the rods and cheap intercooler support.

I just signed the order for a custom 218/218 .499/.499 with 115 lobe separation cam from CompCams ($186). The sales rep was really good and agreed a slightly higher lobe wouldn't hurt my build but didn't want to see it beyond 115, so I split the 114/116 difference. I'm going to get their matching lifters as well (812-12 @ $63). So all in with custom cam with lifters $249 (free shipping).



I'm still scrounging for a good deal on a carb bonnet. Even $100 for the Spectre standard profile seems like a ripoff. I get it's a performance part but it seems like a high price for a mid grade piece. I'd like to find a used one, especially an EV or Procharger. Doesn't seem like they sell used too often. I tried posting in the Inliners swap meet but I can't find the 'new post' link.

Ian


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Lift for horsepower, duration for rpm and LSA to get the valve events where you want them.

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I have to stop saying when I'm going to buy things and in what order as I've pushed the pistons back several times and did it again today. Found the DevilsOwn Stage 1 SQ1 Meth/Alcohol Injection Kit on eBay for $239 so I bought it.

I had planned to wait until after I had the turbo installed and functioning before I bought the stage 2 kit. Then I decided I'd like to have it in place but not spend crazy money or have to burden myself with extra tuning, so the stage 1 kit made sense. It will be straight forward to install and setup to push a 50/50 mix or specific meth washer fluid at 4-5# (confused) boost and use the washer jug for supply. Then, once I'm satisfied with the turbos function and everything is stable, I can simply add the controller and tweak timing as a future weekend project. Also, I could always adjust the meth/water ratio and tune for HP if I got the itch. I think it's a smarter plan, but now I only have a couple hundred bucks left.



Probably buy a carb bonnet next, then I'll have pretty much all the external parts for a mock up.

Ian


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Good score!
I do the same thing, when I see something I want for a good price, I go & get it, but like you said, it puts the build off further down the road, oh well.

Depending on how much you inject into the engine, it will really drop down the intake temps, = way less chance of detonation, good call in my book. cool

In the instructions, IIRC, it will say not to tighten the fittings too tight into the pump head, it will crack the plastic, so just be careful, my friend cracked his because he just tightened it too tight.

Another friend has a Devils own stg 2 kit in his supercharged 2001 Pontiac GTP, only problem he had was they sent him too small of a jet.
His intake temps only dropped about 20-30 degrees F, not much & he was detonating some.

I had told him the intake temps should drop more than that & told him to contact Devils own, they agreed the temps should drop more than what it was & they discovered that they sent my friends kit to him with too small of a jet.

He received a larger nozzle/jet from them & that made a huge difference & the engine no longer detonates.

MBHD
Originally Posted By: Ian67
I have to stop saying when I'm going to buy things and in what order as I've pushed the pistons back several times and did it again today. Found the DevilsOwn Stage 1 SQ1 Meth/Alcohol Injection Kit on eBay for $239 so I bought it.

I had planned to wait until after I had the turbo installed and functioning before I bought the stage 2 kit. Then I decided I'd like to have it in place but not spend crazy money or have to burden myself with extra tuning, so the stage 1 kit made sense. It will be straight forward to install and setup to push a 50/50 mix or specific meth washer fluid at 4-5# (confused) boost and use the washer jug for supply. Then, once I'm satisfied with the turbos function and everything is stable, I can simply add the controller and tweak timing as a future weekend project. Also, I could always adjust the meth/water ratio and tune for HP if I got the itch. I think it's a smarter plan, but now I only have a couple hundred bucks left.



Probably buy a carb bonnet next, then I'll have pretty much all the external parts for a mock up.

Ian


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Yeah I'm pretty excited to add Meth injection to the parts list. It's funny actually as it's one of the parts I wanted the most but decided to put off early on as it wasn't required to build a turbo setup. However the reality is it's so practical every engine can benefit from more HP, lower temps and cleaner cylinders so it should really be one of the first items on the list.

I'll need to spend some time researching the ideal PSI for the meth to kick in. One site mentioned to start with 50% of your boost, so if I was running 10#'s I'd start the meth pumping at 5psi. I would think it should come in a little earlier, perhaps 2-3 depending on how sensitive the switch was and how large the jet was on the kit. I suppose the tuning of the turbo comes into play as if it was into 2-3#'s just cruising around, I'd be burning meth all day and that would get costly. I may have just talked myself into starting at 50% of my boost.

Also, I've yet to see windshield washer fluid with meth as an ingredient. Anyone have any good common sources for this stuff that they might carry up north (West coast Canada)? I can always run straight meth but I'd like to price it all out.

Ian


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For washer fluid, the ones made for winter have a higher blend of meth.

Not sure if you have a Walmart near you ? but

There is a product called Heat, the one in a yellow bottle is, IIRC, 99% methanol.

https://www.google.com/search?q=methanol...mp;ved=0CB0QsAQ

Remember, it's the Yellow bottle, not the red one.

I get my meth form a chemical supply company, 5 gallon buckets.
The F&L is actually more pure than the "RACE" methanol from VP ( M1)IIRC

http://www.vpracingfuels.com/master-fuels-table







Devils owns sells this: http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/44-premixed-methanol

Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SNO-40008/

but it's usually a lot cheaper to mix your own if you have access to.

MBHD


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Thanks for the detailed info on meth. I don't have any chain stores here and since I live on an island they don't bring chemicals over (except regular gas) so I'd need to go off Island to get to a walmart or chemical supply.

Switching subjects, I'm thinking of getting the Extreme Velocity hat over the spectre. The EV's claims for increases HP/flow are impossible to ignore. I was originally advised to get the one with a divider. Would the divider allow me to adjust the amount of air being directed into the secondaries vs the primaries or is it simply for flow? Why does the polished one have to be way more $.

Side note, I went to a Canada Day show and shine today and did not see any Camaros, inline 6's or boosted setups. I almost shat myself. Not even 1 camaro! Even with my average paint job and scummy six I shoulda got in line. It will be quite something to have the only boosted 6 in an original 250 Camaro beside all the 350's and 396's.

Ian


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The divided hat is non adjustable.

Yep, SBC's & BBC's are just the norm, (ho hum),, inline boosted Chevy 6, now that gets everyone's attention!

MBHD


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I've read for hours and combining all sources I get the following as a general consensus:

<=800HP divided hat with no spacer mounted at 12, 6, 3 or 9 o'clock. Preferably 3 or 9.

>801HP no divider and with a spacer mounted at 12 or 6 o'clock, preferably 6.

So, I'll go with the divided EV hat, painted black mounted at 9 o'clock and run the pipe from the front passenger side up and over the valve cover.

That sound like the best case scenario?

Ian


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In addition to the above, I'm looking at gauges too. I have room for three 52mm gauges above my heater control and I want one more, the most important one mounted on the column. I'm having difficulty narrowing it down to only 4 gauges. I'll want a wideband and boost gauge for sure. I would like to monitor oil pressure as well and I think a tach could be useful for tuning. However I'm reading about EGT and fuel pressure gauges as well. So many to sift out.

Perhaps a 60-80mm boost gauge on the column, with the smaller wideband, tach and oil pressure on the dash. Then again, I'm running a hot daily driver, not a race car so maybe I'd be better to monitor exhaust temps (especially with meth flowing) instead of rpm? Any thoughts?

Ian


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You can always add one of these to add more gauges. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Meter-10100...212&vxp=mtr

It is for a Mustang but it fits nice in a Camaro like yours.

I do not think you will need to monitor exhaust temps too much, but that's up to you, the meth drops the exhaust temps.

MBHD




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Well I think I'm going to grab boost for the column and AFR, Oil Pressure and Water Temperature for the dash or pillar.

Thanks for the link gbauer. I had seen and mentioned that pillar pod several pages ago but forgot how clean it looked. I've never been a fan of pillar pods on these older cars but for how clean, and not having to cut the dash, it's quite appealing. Then again, the dash mount could look very stock with suitable gauges.

I've been bouncing back and forth with which gauge brand to get. I really like the color and appearance options of budget companies like glowshift and prostreet but have mixed feelings about reliability (especially glowshift) but also don't mind Autometer despite higher prices and visual limits. The obvious reply seems to be, "don't buy glowshift, they're shit!" but when your buying 4 gauges at $350 vs Autometer or AEM at $500-600 for the same functions with less visual appeal... It's not that easy.

Anyone have any recent experience with either prostreet or glowshift gauges?


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I USE AUTOMETER A LOT. I HAVE HAD TO GET A COUPLE OF REPLACEMENTS ON WARRANTY. THEY FULFILLED THEIR WARRANTY OBLIGATIONS.


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I have ran AutoMeter Gauges for over 40yrs And I have never had one fail. And I have them in my 64SS and they have been there since 1984.


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I've had a chance to review the gauge options and have decided to go with the autometer Cobalt series. I like the pro-comp series as well but the Cobalt brings in a similar blue glow to what my Camaro cluster has now, and that's what I liked most about the cheaper gauges mentioned earlier. Further more, I'll buy the AFR and boost gauges first and perhaps down the road, birthday or Christmas I can get the oil pressure and water temp ones as they aren't critical to the turbo setup.

I've selected the following two gauges:

Autometer Cobalt 2 1/16" 6171 Analog Wideband Gauge
Autometer Cobalt 2 1/16" 6159 30psi Electic Vac/Boost Gauge

I've read these are excellent gauges but I thought I should at least mention it here in case someone smarter than I had a better option or notified an incompatibility. I picked an electric boost gauge because they are lower profile and will fit in the custom pillar pod mentioned in gbauer's previous post. Plus I don't have to run hose through the firewall.

Ian


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