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Yikes... so I should have the o-ring seal on the lowest grove and the umbrela "floating" between it and the guide? I have attached a picture of what I did before I put the springs on.



Big fail here or what?

EDIT: I've found a couple other forums indicating the lack of o-rings will cause the umbrella to sit in the groove loose, which will allow oil to pass and the engine will smoke.


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yes it looks like thesilverbuick is correct. there is an oring that goes in the lower groove.

if the same procedure for a small block head applies to these heads then here is some info I found for ya.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/umbrella-type-valve-seals-152885.html

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Well this is unfortunate but it's most certainly my smoke issue (besides running rich) and I have everything I need already to fix it.

What is the easiest way to fix this? Is there a trick to doing this that doesn't involve removing the head? I definitely don't want a valve falling into a cylinder but it seems a shame to pull everything a part for little o-rings. Perhaps a dowel in the spark plug hole to press up on the valve and slip the ring over the stem with the retainers off? Or doing only the cylinder under compression and rotating the engine as I go? Sounds doable to me but I don't want to make things worse.


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if you have a compression tester kit there should be an adapter to hook it straight to a chuck on an air hose. blow compressed air into the cylinder and the pressure will keep the valves in the head without falling into the cylinder.

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If the umbrella seal doesn't go down any farther than that you have the wrong seals. The umbrella should fit over the valve guide and be able to push down and sit with the underside that fits thru the valve seated on top of the guide. Also, you don't put both the o-ring and umbrella seals on the same valve. Most shops put the umbrellas on the intake valves and the o-ring on the exhaust valves. There is also a special cover that fits over the valve tip for installing the umbrella seals so that the grooves don't scar or scratch the inside of the seal. It will shorten the life of them if its not used.



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I'm just going off what it looked like when I pulled my engines apart and the engine kits came with 6 umbrella's and 12 valve stem o-rings. This is the first engine I've had that uses umbrella style seals. OE, mine only had the umbrellas on the intake. The o-ring shouldn't get anywhere near the guide, so not sure why it would be an exhaust only thing.

There is something quite wrong in your picture, as the umbrella is supposed to drop down around the guide.

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Well damn. I stripped it down and immediately noticed chunks of rubber laying around the spring for cylinder #1. I pulled the spring and found this...



In case you can't see it, the umbrella seal is shredded. I can push the "mouth" of the seal over the guide if I want too, but it doesn't seem to fit as though it was meant to. If I do that, the inner spring on my valve springs seems to rub against the seal (which is why I didn't put them over the guide in the first place). Perhaps they were shredded because they were loose on the stems?

I have all 12 o-rings but no other umbrella seals. The springs I'm using are the ones from 12bolt.com and I'm nervous they'll touch anything fitted over the guides.

In case there is any confusion, I used these umbrella seals: Howard Cams 11/32 Umbrella Seals and they have exactly the same dimensions as the ones Tlowe referenced in other posts Ebay Viton 11/32 seals


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They are either mis-labeled or they are the wrong seal altogether. Umbrella seals fit fairly loosely over the valve guide and seat on top of it as I and Randal have already mentioned. Your seal is getting smashed between the top of the guide and the bottom of the retainer because is has an interference fit on the guide itself and isn't seating fully on top of it. The seal should also fit inside of the valve spring with plenty of room to spare and not rub it. If it does, then either the springs are requiring the use of a smaller diameter seal such as a teflon style that requires the guide to be machined to install them(assuming the umbrella seal is the correct one and not mis-labeled), or there could have been a better choice of springs that allows the use of the stock umbrella seal to begin with.

Looking back over this thread, you said you were thinking about using a particular Howard's valve spring, but you never said if you actually selected those or something else. What part # valve springs does your cam card say to use?



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Originally Posted By: CNC-Dude #5585
They are either mis-labeled or they are the wrong seal altogether. Umbrella seals fit fairly loosely over the valve guide and seat on top of it as I and Randal have already mentioned. Your seal is getting smashed between the top of the guide and the bottom of the retainer because is has an interference fit on the guide itself and isn't seating fully on top of it. The seal should also fit inside of the valve spring with plenty of room to spare and not rub it. If it does, then either the springs are requiring the use of a smaller diameter seal such as a teflon style that requires the guide to be machined to install them(assuming the umbrella seal is the correct one and not mis-labeled), or there could have been a better choice of springs that allows the use of the stock umbrella seal to begin with.

I was just comparing the seals Tlowe referenced (the ebay Viton's) to the ones I have. I used a digital caliper to compare dimensions to the specs listed on ebay and mine are identical. Also, the inside diameter of 12bolt's damper spring is exactly the same as my stock springs.

If I push my seal so it fits over the guide (which I can fairly easily) it provides a snug fit on the guide and still grips the stem. However, with it over the guide the damper spring will not fit around it. There is not enough clearance between the damper spring and the guide to put the umbrella seals I used between without them touching/rubbing. The only difference between the Viton's and mine could be the thickness, but they *look* the same in the pictures.

It looks like I either need an umbrella that will ride up and down with the stem or to use the original o-rings with tin shroud under the retainer. The only thing that upsets me is switching back to the shroud/o-ring drastically affects my spring installed heights.


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Ok, I was suspecting the springs to be more the problem than anything after comparing the one's in the link you provided.



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The Viton umbrellas were just a recommendation based on the questions you were asking earlier in the thread. Send out to many parts to keep track of what combination everyone is using.

The springs I offer are used with either the splash shield and oring or the preferred machined guide for a pressed on positive seal.
The retainers/ lock combo I use usually sets the my spring up around 1.725.

I thought the blue smoke was a bad thing to see.

Last edited by tlowe #1716; 05/25/16 11:28 PM.

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Prepare for some measurements...

For interests sake my caliper says my guides are 0.765", seals outside diameter are 0.750" that are apparently for a 0.762" guide. The internal diameter of the damper spring in both stock and my new 12bolt springs are 0.780". The Howard Cam umbrella seals I used are approximately 0.030" thick (before stretching over guide).

The guide + umbrella = 0.795" while the spring is 0.015" smaller than that. So, unless I can find a guide umbrella less than 0.015" thick, that plan is dead.

I could use the stock retainer/shroud combo and go with old school o-rings but I'd have to add the shroud (0.030") to my installed heights....

I crunched the numbers from my original valve height worksheet and I'd be 0.020" under on one, and about 0.015" under desired install height on two others. Is that manageable or will that cause problems? Keeping in mind I plan to go to larger valves in the next year or two.

EDIT: Bah, unless its no big deal, ill just order some offset locks for those and call it a day.

Thank you everyone for helping me with this... this whole project has been a big learning curve and this forum has been extremely helpful, even when I spam message it.

Last edited by TurboCamaro; 05/26/16 01:43 AM. Reason: Appreciation

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How are you checking the seat pressure and open pressure of your springs? The installed height is really just a baseline, whereas the spring pressures are absolutes. And just because you achieve the ideal installed height, doesn't mean the installed seat pressure or open pressures will correspond. That's why they make offset retainers and shims so you can tune the pressure more so than just the installed height. I know the .015"-.020" doesn't sound like a lot, but on a hydraulic cam it can be problem if you don't at least know where the pressures are. I guess what i'm trying to say is there are a few more important things that need to be checked in this exercise than just the installed height.



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I brought the springs to my machine shop and they told me they would give me a printout for $$$ or just confirm a 1.730" installed height for free, so I went with option 2. Seemed a bit ghetto to me but they said keep close to 1.730 and the pressures would be within spec.

When I go to larger valves I intend on bringing them the head and having them determine exact heights.

I have 3 different looking valves that seem to be generally lower than the rest and they will need the 0.050" height increase to work with the shedder/ring combo.

Thanks for asking though as I could have easily missed that one


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Ok, glad you checked into it.



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I'd like to get a spring pressure tester. I've only used the classic method of interpolating between the two height/pressure points the manufacture gives you for the open and closed pressures, which typically after any decent amount of run time aren't accurate anymore. The full set up is pricey though.

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Originally Posted By: TheSilverBuick
I'd like to get a spring pressure tester. I've only used the classic method of interpolating between the two height/pressure points the manufacture gives you for the open and closed pressures, which typically after any decent amount of run time aren't accurate anymore. The full set up is pricey though.

Yeah it'd be nice to have for sure. For me personally. I'm not sure how much I'd use it. That being said, I'd be smarter to buy more basic tools like an air compressor or welder. Someday... I'll have it all smile

As a small update. I ordered a set of +0.050" 7 degree stem locks and a pack of 0.015" shims from Summit. I called every major suto/performance parts store in BC Canada and nobody had access to 7 degree offsets. Shipping to me was more than the parts frown

I put a box of Robaxacet aside as I'll be leaning over the engine bay for a bit doing spring Heights and lifter adjustments. I'll be deleting my existing YouTube video on "how to" setup the valves as it's more of a "how to not" video at this point.


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Off in a new direction here. Mentally preparing for Turbo install next weekend (assuming the valve seal issue is resolved this weekend).

The turbo is going on the front driver side of the engine, probably as high as the hood will let me. I have the oil lines figured out but where are the best spots to source and return the coolant? It's just rubber hose lines feeding into banjo fittings. Hank mentioned the radiator petcock on Snowmans thread but I couldn't find any pictures or other reference to it.

EDIT: I found this. Would tapping the heater core hoses be the best way?

Thanks


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I don't see a problem using heater hoses. Should make things pretty easy.

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Alright, the seals have been replaced and it's just very small amounts of white smoke when revving the engine. I'm happy with that while the engine runs so rich. Which brings me to my situation. The car is running mostly rich but it's manageable

Carburetor is a 600CFM DP with Mech Secondaries. 58 Main jets, 65 Secondaries and a 6.5 power valve. Idle screws out 1.25 turns. Vacuum while in park is about 18. Vacuum while in Drive fluctuates between 12-13. Idle in park is about 8500 and in Drive about 6000. Initial timing 10* and total timing at 40*. Seems my distributor curve is longer than some.

Park AFR: 10.5-11
Drive AFR: 12.5
Initial Acceleration AFR: 12-13.5
Transmission shift from 1st to 2nd gear spikes lean for just a moment to 15-16 AFR
Crusing in 2nd/3rd AFR: 13ish
Accelerate up steep grade from low speed AFR: 16-18
Slow crawl up steep grade (3-5mph): 14-15

I had a couple backfires on initial engine start (2 weeks ago) so I changed the power valve today. It made a difference in the mid range but the shift point and hill(s) are still a problem.

I know this is a lot of info but I hope someone might recognize the problem or provide some advice. I want to drive it about 60km tomorrow evening so I can fabricate a turbo down pipe over the weekend. I don't need to make it perfect and get the turbo on only to start all over again, but a bit better would be nice.

Thanks!


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Are 58 main jets the correct ones as delivered from Holley? Or are all jets to Holley spec? That is the best place to start tuning.

Does that carb have 4 idle screws, 2 in the primary and 2 more in secondary.


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Originally Posted By: tlowe #1716
Are 58 main jets the correct ones as delivered from Holley? Or are all jets to Holley spec? That is the best place to start tuning.

Does that carb have 4 idle screws, 2 in the primary and 2 more in secondary.

The stock sizes for this carb are 65/72 but I swapped them down to 58/65 to raise the cruise AFR from 9-10 to its current 13. They are actual holley brand jets if that was your concern. It has 2 idle screws. I rebuilt this carb to spec with all new parts. Throttle plates adjusted to spec (transition slots square). Other than the primary jet size and idle screws, it's all spec.

I stayed up till 4am reading last night and have created a list of things to check today:

- PCV functioning? (it's brand new but cheap so who knows)
- Float bowls (confirm height after its been apart a few times)
- Accelerator pump tight (was tight but have been changing jets and PV so better double check)
- Secondaries opening smoothly?
- Consider inserting narrow Wire in idle circuit to lean the mix
- what is Vacuum during hill climb (should be PV size)

I'll check all these things and post my findings.


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Which wide band are you using? They can be very good reference tools, but sometimes lead you a stray with tuning if you are glued to the readings.

From my experience.
For idle, aim for 13.5
Cruise 12.75-13
WO throttle 12.5

These chambers are very lazy and seem to like fuel.

Does your carb have a secondary PV?


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Originally Posted By: tlowe #1716
Which wide band are you using? They can be very good reference tools, but sometimes lead you a stray with tuning if you are glued to the readings.

From my experience.
For idle, aim for 13.5
Cruise 12.75-13
WO throttle 12.5

These chambers are very lazy and seem to like fuel.

Does your carb have a secondary PV?

I have the AEM UGEO wideband (Bosch 4.9 LSU sensor) with 52mm Analog style gauge. It seems accurate but yeah, I'm pretty OCD about things and could easily see myself buying every cam and spring to make it exactly how I want, instead of how it needs to be.

I went to pull my PCV today (Spectre chrome cap style) and sure enough, the PCV housing broke right off the valve. I had to somewhat mangle the valve to get it out as it was pressed in there good. The valve was stuck closed upon testing, but I can't say for sure if it was before I mangled it. Luckily I kept the original one and it works fine, I cleaned it and may attach the chrome housing to it for looks.

Float bowls are both still set to spec. I didn't change them. Both accelerator pumps are solid and respond to the throttle.

I ended up putting a small piece of wire in each idle restriction port on the primary metering block. First thicker wire I chose leaned it out so bad it would only start with the throttle partially down. I ended up with a very fine strand that worked perfectly. Now it idles around 13.5 and cruises to 3000 or so RPM between 12.5-13.5. I may need to increase primary jets after all but I'll get the turbo on before I go further.

That's all good news, but it still dogs it up hills or any kind of low speed load. I was too distracted by the lean wideband (16-17) and trying not to stall on the hill to think about the vacuum. I suspect my "under load" vacuum is closer to 8-10" so my 6.5 power valve isn't opening when needed.

This carb does not have a secondary PV.

Bought the 3" VBand clamp, flange and a 3" U-J mandrel bent pipe today. I have to go up a ferry ramp tomorrow to get to the welder... if it makes it, the turbo should be on tomorrow.

Thanks!


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Do you have a higher # PV, like a 8.5?


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Originally Posted By: tlowe #1716
Do you have a higher # PV, like a 8.5?

I played with the vacuum gauge and idle a bit more today and got it closer to 19" while idling in drive. Very high but I don't have power brakes so maybe that's why? I made it the 60km journey today and it really has a hard time on the few hills and accelerating between 40-60mph. I'm convinced it's the low PV as the lowest I observed the vacuum at was the 10" line. So I'm going to hunt down a 10 or even 10.5 tomorrow and see what that does. Seems like a big number but it's just a bit above holleys recommended 50% max. Either way, once the turbos on I might need the extra enrichment.

I'll let ya know if I go too rich again.


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if it's that high you need a 9.5 or more.

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Originally Posted By: gbauer
if it's that high you need a 9.5 or more.

Agreed. I went with a 10.5 and wouldn't you know it, it mostly fixed my acceleration issue. I still have a fairly rich idle and a lean bog on initial acceleration.

No more blue smoke with the o-rings and shedders back on though!

I'm pretty convinced my tinkering with idle and timing has buggered the transfer slot configuration (causing lean bog) so I'll probably pull the carb off and start from there. Might install the nitrophyl floats as I understand they're less likely to collapse under pressure.

Turbo up and down pipe are fabricated, just gotta attach the wastegate flange and its "out" pipe and we're in business. Had to leave the pipes out of town so it will be a few weeks before final assembly. Will give me time to get the carb right (then mess it up with a turbo) and plumb the already mounted intercooler. Braided oil lines and various "last minute" pieces are in the mail now. Once they arrive we'll get into boost.


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any updates? I've been following your page best i can. Looking forward to this.

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Originally Posted By: Matt D
any updates? I've been following your page best i can. Looking forward to this.
Hey, not sure if you're following me on Youtube/Facebook/Twitter but I have recently plumbed the BOV, intercooler and got it ready for turbo hookup. Had to modify the Spectre plenum to fit under the hood and cross over the valve cover. The 3" piping was tricky to the intercooler but overall I'm pretty happy with it.



I mentioned the up/down pipe above but didn't show it. The assembly is painted with VHT flat aluminum header paint. 2.5" out the manifold to a squared 4" piece attached to the T4 flange. Out the back of the turbo is a 3" from a v-band flange.



I received the rest of my AN fittings for the oil lines the other day but the blasted manual boost controller is taking its sweet time. I would have probably installed it all already but the Camaro is being used in a family members wedding for photos and transport so I don't really want to interfere with that or hurry to get it working in time. The tuning will probably take some trial and error.


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Sorry to resurrect my thread, but it made sense to keep it together. Since the last post, I've had the engine running well and floating around 5# boost. It's been great except I've had some oil burning issues. I had some worn guides and I couldn't seem to keep the o-rings intact after install.

I just pulled it apart and dropped the head at the shop. They did the works on it and it's now good for positive seals and I went with 1.8/1.6 valves as well.

I was walking out of the machine shop and the owner told me to install the positive seals on all the guides, but to be safe, put o-rings with NO shedder's on them all as well. This seems counter-productive, as won't the positive seals be more than adequate? Anyone go this route or use both seals before?

Thanks!


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I don't use Orings if the positive seals are used.

What's a No Shedder?


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Originally Posted By: tlowe #1716
I don't use Orings if the positive seals are used.

What's a No Shedder?

I mean, he said to use the positive seals and o-rings without using the oil shedders on top (Not certain if they go by a different name, but the tin umbrella that covers the top of the spring). I searched for hours to find out if someone has ever done that combo but had no luck. Seems like both seals would likely starve the stem of needed lube, and guarantee maintenance with those o-rings in place.


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Are you referring to the umbrella seal as oil shedder?

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Originally Posted By: TheSilverBuick
Are you referring to the umbrella seal as oil shedder?
I hope I'm not using the wrong terminology, but I've aways referred to the tin cup as an oil shedder and the smaller rubbers seals that ride the stem as umbrellas.

Either way, I'm referring to the part referenced in the image below (not my cylinder head).



As of right now, I'm about done installing the positive seals with no intention of using o-rings or the above tin shedders/umbrellas/deflectors.


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Oil deflectors? Most people I know don't run them depending on your lift and such might be enough to bind the spring


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Ah, those things.

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