That's what I thought. I just rubbed off the end of the needle and put it back in and it stopped overflowing (but the float adjustment probably stopped the flow as well). I remember that happening a few times.

Don't worry, I'm quite experienced in carb fires. I've had one notably large one where I was actually freaked out enough to run and get the fire extinguisher. We keep one in our pantry which is about 7 steps from me standing next to the car to be in front of and takes about 5 seconds to get.

I've looked at the rebuild instructions and the exploded diagram is good enough for disassembly and reassembly. It's just that the directions for float and metering rod adjustment and whatnot are not very clear. I get the general idea of what to do to adjust it but the picture they provide to help you further isn't clear. I'll try to get a picture of it on here.

For those of you guys suggesting HEI. Don't worry. That's in my gameplan. I have a thread called "Snowman Turbo Build" or something that MBHD started in the turbo section which lists my projected mods. Why are you guys suggesting this so much? Does it just provide a more stable tune or more accurate and consistent spark or what?

I'm not going to buy another single barrel because I've also listed in that thread that I"m planning on getting an offy 5416 (4 barrel intake) and a 500cfm or 600cfm 4 barrel for my turbo setup. If it gets bad enough to where my Rottenchester monojet becomes unusable, then I'll just try to get the offy/4 barrel setup to work. It's just depressing to me because I wanted to keep all of the stock things on my car in working order in case I wanted to return it to stock. Now the carb is out I guess...

Last edited by snowman4839; 08/28/10 10:44 AM.

69 Buick Special Deluxe. Intercooled Turbo Chevy 250 @ 15psi on a stock long block. It's kinda fast.