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#7053 03/17/05 03:09 AM
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Hi everyone. I've been away from the site for a while and am now getting back into it. My truck has been on the backburner for a year now and I'm ready to get back to it. I am just curious what, if any, parts are interchangeable between the inline 250 and the chevy small or big block engines? I'm running a 250 and a T5 in a 64 longbed 1/2 ton. I'm still lacking a driveline and all the plumbing and wiring to the engine. Also, anyone know of a stock driveline that might fit my setup? Thanks for any answers and input.

Ken

#7054 03/17/05 01:16 PM
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Dear Ken;

I would install the 292" engine & leave the driveline as-is.

I think all you need is a slight motor mount switch (1 side), Mike G. would know of this.

If you go to a V-8 there's more conversion.

Tom's Truck Parts in Miami, OK. will have all you need etc. Their # is: 918.542.3871

Good luck, John M...


John M., I.I. #3370

"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
#7055 03/17/05 05:30 PM
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The flywheel and clutch assembly along with the starter and bellhousing are all the same on the 250 and the small and big block V8, right down to the bolts. Flywheel diameters and clutch plate sizes changed depending on year and application and that makes for two different size bellhousings and 2 different starter noses to match the flywheel being used. So if you have a V8 in the truck and want to replace it with a 250 just reuse everything off the back of the 8 including the starter. Mounts need to be correct for the 6 and you might need to move the radiator forward for the added length. All this is no hassle as the 64 pick up came with a 230 base engine so used or NOS or aftermarket repro mounts exist.

The 292 will require drilling out the flywheel bolt holes to 1/2 inch and then all parts fit as on the 250. The 292 also has the right side motor mount about 3 inches further forward and again, the correct mounts should be easy to locate.

Some of the engine wiring may need extending if there is not enough slack to reach along the inline engine for temp sensor, ignition wiring, and alternator wiring. Wiring that goes to the starter solenoid will be long enough as is.

Carb linkage will need to be located or you can use a universal aftermarket cable kit with a little fabrication of mounting brackets.

If you can locate an unmolested donor truck in a salvage yard or some farmers back field you can score all the needed mounts and linkages.

Mike


Mike G #4355
#7056 03/17/05 05:54 PM
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Thanks for the input, but it wasn't quite what I was looking for. A little background here: my truck had a 230 in it when I got it, I put a V8 in it and was never very happy with it. I now have a rebuilt 250 in it and have the T5 behind it already set up. I'm just short a driveline and finishing up the wiring and plumbing to the engine. I was just curious what engine parts might interchange between the V8's and inlines, rocker arms, fuel pumps...stuff like that. I'm glad for such a quick response and maybe should have added the history of the truck in the first post. Thank you all very much.

Ken

#7057 03/18/05 12:37 PM
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Other than the parts on the rear of the engine listed above the only other thing off a SBC that will bolt right on is the alternator and the accessory drive pulleys that bolt on the damper if you need it. Even at that there are a bunch of lower V8 and Inline pulleys depending on the year and the added accessories. All the valve train stuff like pushrods and rockers are different and the fuel pump is different. The thermostat and the housing will fit but the t-stat housing may not point the hose to the correct location on the radiator. The timing cover seal is the same as the SBC and that is pretty much all that is a direct interchange.

Hope this is a little more help.
Mike


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#7058 03/18/05 02:42 PM
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I believe you can use 307 pistons in a 250 with a little machine work. Big block rockers (rollers anyway) can be used and a big block fuel pump block off plate will fit the six. There is not much interchange besides the other items already stated.


Inliner #1916
#7059 03/18/05 07:37 PM
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I had my machinist put 1.84" intake valves on my 292 head. They are originally for the 305 V8.
Mike G: The L6s and SBCs have totally different timing gear (or chain) covers.


I/I #4101
'71 GMC Jimmy 350, sm465, np205,3.73 posi.
'68 C/10 Stepside 292 (.030 over) Offy Intake, 500 CFM AFB,Clif headers, sm465, 3.73 posi.
'67 K/10 454 project.
'72 K/5 rolling frame project.
#7060 03/19/05 02:43 PM
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Thank you all very much. I do have one more question though. I would like to go with a one-piece driveline, to get rid of the carrier and the extra u-joints. Does anyone know if the driveshaft loop that is located just forward of the carrier bearing mount on the frame will interfere with a one-piece shaft? My truck is 300 miles away from me so I can't really do the old trial and error thing. Has someone else that is using a T5 in their 60-66 chevy truck tried this? Thanks again for all the quick answers.

Ken

#7061 03/19/05 04:13 PM
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68orange sunshine.

Yes the timing COVERS are completely different but what I said was " the timing cover SEALS are the same".

Mike G


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#7062 03/19/05 09:35 PM
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Ride, I am using a T5 in my '65 pickup but it is a shortbed fleetside and I am using a stock driveshaft from a 1955 Chev that I just changed the yoke on and installed new u-joints. Possibly a 65-70 full size Impala still uses the same u-joint as your truck and the length might be a lot closer.


Ontario Inliners
1965 Chevelle
1940 Chev
1965 Chev Pick-up
1970 MGB Roadster

#7063 03/21/05 05:17 AM
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 Quote:
Originally posted by Mike G:
68orange sunshine.

Yes the timing COVERS are completely different but what I said was " the timing cover SEALS are the same".

Mike G
MIKE: You mean the round thingie? Yeah, you're right.


I/I #4101
'71 GMC Jimmy 350, sm465, np205,3.73 posi.
'68 C/10 Stepside 292 (.030 over) Offy Intake, 500 CFM AFB,Clif headers, sm465, 3.73 posi.
'67 K/10 454 project.
'72 K/5 rolling frame project.
#7064 03/22/05 07:53 AM
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About this one piece driveline idea: Man, I'm skeptical, very skeptical! That's an awful lot of rotating mass stretched out over a lot of length. It would have to be PEERRFEEECTLY balanced. Just a thought. Maybe it would work out fine. One sure way to find out is try it.

Boo Radley


Paint it black with a rattle can, and drive it like ya stole it!
#7065 03/24/05 06:14 AM
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I measured the distance from the transmission yoke to the rear differential and it was something like 60-63 inches. That was a year ago , so I'm not sure what the exact measurement was anymore. I found a driveline at a wrecking yard that would have worked but was short on cash at the time and then it was gone when I got the cash. I just wish I knew what vehicle that driveline was from so I could easily find another one. I guess I'm just going to have to start from the begining again. Thanks for everyone's help.
Ken

#7066 03/24/05 11:56 AM
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Check with a shop that builds drive shafts re. changing to one piece, needs to be balanced for sure. The last guy I know of that went to the one piece drive shaft on his truck totalled the rig. The drive shaft came apart and pole vaulted the truck off the highway. The carrier bearing two piece shafts have been used for years, no problems.


Jim, I.I. #173
(It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!)

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