Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines Oil leaks.

Alright guys. I need all your tips and tricks on fixing oil leaks. My main ones are the valve cover and the rear oil pan seal (not rear main). I've managed to screw up the rear oil pan seal at least twice, and it leaks like a waterfall. It always seems to twist on me when I'm putting the pan in. This is a real hassle since I have to jack up the engine about 4 inches or more to get the pan out. Even with the engine that high it's still a burden to get out.

The valve cover has been a PITA since forever. No matter what I do it always leaks. I think I might get some studs and run two stacked cork gaskets.

BTW, this is all on a 250 in my '68 C-10. Please help. Thanks. John

On the valve cover, make sure the mating surface is not bent out of shape. Use a small hammer, a
piece of wood mated to the cover lip size and a flat surface to tap the valve cover back in alignment.On the slipping gasket,try spraying a little gasket tack on the oil pan lip after it has been properly cleaned with lacquer thinner.
Personally,I don't think using double gaskets is a good idea and remember not to overtighten the
screws/bolts.

Best (and only) way to permanently resolve your valve cover gasket leak problems is to get an aluminum aftermarket valve cover. Clifford or Offenhauser makes them. Mercury Marine also made them for the 250/292s for their older 70s mercruiser boat engines. They're taller than stock covers and can be found on Ebay often much cheaper than the Offy or Clifford. I've picked up a couple extra myself.

-magic mike-

Are you putting the oil pan gaskets on the pan before you put the pan in place? Glue the pan gasket to the block with 3M trim cement or something comparable, then put the pan in place. done this way, I have never seen a gasket twist or slip. Joe

Thanks guys. I may end up going with an aluminum valve cover later on. I think I'm going to run studs on the valve cover, and a few on the pan to help line it up during installation. I used the 3M spray adhesive on both of the gaskets, but the valve cover still leaked. I don't think the pan is leaking anywhere other than at the rear seal. Hoepfully I can get the rear pan seal taken care of soon. I just put on my 4 barrel, and I really want to tune it some more. It doesn't help when oil leaks all over the headers, though I'm kinda used to it by now. Thanks again guys. John

John,

In my relatively inexperienced opinion, from what I've read here (and on other online sites in in books) an MSD box would be overkill on your slightly modified, otherwise stock 250. The HEI alone should give you more spark than your engine needs.

Now if you had more extensive headwork (such as larger valves, professional port and polish, intake boss shaped/removed, etc.), higher compression and a lumpy cam then I'd say go for the MSD box.

-magic mike-

I dont think that the MSD box would be overkill...it would definitely be better than just the HEI...the MSD will create more sparks per revolution resulting in a better burn and more power...i even notive the extra power going from stock coil to MSD high perf. coil...get the MSD cause its good for u..only thing thats kept me from it is price right now...The HEI alone does not give all that much more spark...just a more reliable one...

anyways...another good method of putting on oil pan gascets is to use really thin hobby wire to hold it in place...its thin enough not to be a problem when mounting it...but the sealant to hold it in place is a really good idea too...

larger valves isnt necessary to do since u can buy a 78-80 head used with larger valves...but the intake is usually integral so mods to the head would need to be done...

hope u fix the leak...my engine leaks like a siv...but its my fauld for not using proper gaskets and only gasket sealer...hehe..oops..soon to be remidied though...

Magic Mike-- I already have the HEI, MSD 6A box, and Blaster Coil. I got a really good deal a while ago, so I went ahead and got it. I'm going to put all of it on hopefully within the next month or so. The cool thing is I don't have to buy an ignition module since I'm using the MSD box. All I need to do is get a cap, rotor, tach adaptor (maybe), some good wires, and clean up the dizzy. I do agree though that's it's probably overkill, but I'd rather have too much then not enough.

Thetrueslayer-- I hop I do too. Ever since I've swapped in the engine I've had so type of oil leak. I've had the worst trouble with oil leaks on my truck, with the 327 and the 250. Anyway, thanks again guys. John

BTW: All the "Soon to haves" in my sig. are things I already have that are waiting to be put on.

i just thought of a way to stop the pan from leaking....weld it on...hehe...should be fine unless u need to get the pan off later...but i guess u could cut and grind...then weld another on when your done...have u tried duct tape...hehe...get those 'soon to have's' on the car dangit...

If only I could weld. That will change very soon though. The "soon to haves" might take a little longer than expected, at least the tranny might. I'm probably going to have to pay someone to put a timing belt on my '94 Prelude. Kinda sucks. I wanna drive it so bad, but it's back home. Thanks guys. John