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Joined: Apr 2013
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Seems like this forum is as close as I'm gonna get ...

I'd like to put modern P-metric tires on my 1950 1/2 ton Chevy 3100 PU. My objective is a safe daily driver without the expense of an IFS Mustang II or Pacer clip. Or buying bias ply tires from Coker every couple years, with the added cost of shipping and truing each time. And I'd like to retain as much of an OEM look as possible: the OEM rim diameter, 6-hole bolt pattern and wheel covers.

Is this asking too much? Maybe so, but wait. I'll get to the point in the last paragraph. What follows in the next two paragraphs is background fluff for my application. Skip to the bottom for my bottom-line questions.

The OEM tire specs are 6.00 x 16 or 6.50 x 16 on a 4" rim. These would be 80 or 90 series P-metric tires, and anything close (like a LT215/80R16) has an approved rim width of 5.5" to 7" and a measured rim width of 6". Not very safe on a 4" rim, although I've heard some do it at their peril using tubes. And there's so little available space with the long tie rods. Turning radius is compromised by contacting the tie rod ends or rubbing in the wheel well.

Then again, maybe it's not asking too much. There are tie rod ends for 1934-59 1/2 tons from a couple vendors that claim to add an extra 1/2" to 1" when installed. Chevs of the 40s & maybe other vendors sell new repro wheels (IMHO not very faithful to the GM originals) with the correct width and bolt pattern. And there are several vendors who can widen my OEM wheels.

So, at last, is there an honourable way out? Has anyone tried new tie rod ends with wider (or widened) wheels? I'm leaning toward the latter, using the OEM wheel centers with new barrels/rims. First of all, is this do-able? Then, if someone has put modern P-metric tires on their ride using widened wheels, or even just with new aftermarket wheels, what offset and backspacing were required? Can it be done without the tie rod and wheel well issues? And at what cost?

Thanks!

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On a '47 Ford PU, I just knocked out the rivets in the original rims and took the centers and welded them into newer/wider rims.


'45 Ford PU
66 Valiant wagon, leaning tower of power.
79 Chevy C10 w/250
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The centers can be swapped to wider rims or just purchase new wheels. Just depends on the economoics I suppose. You might post this qestion over on http://www.stovebolt.com .


Drew
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I've bee running 225 75R16s on 4" '36 to '39 wide lug Ford wheels for over 20 years on my single axle two horse trailer. It's been all over Nevada on lots of rough dirt roads and I've never had a problem. They are tubeless.


"I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey?" Mark Twain
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 Originally Posted By: Drew, II # 4211
The centers can be swapped to wider rims or just purchase new wheels. Just depends on the economoics I suppose. You might post this qestion over on http://www.stovebolt.com .


Most custom wheel shops that deal with steel wheels can do this.


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155
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You can try Wheel Vintiques or Dexstar Trailer. They have 6x5.5 bolt pattern wheels in a variety of widths and backspacing. Wheel Vintiques even has the OEM style hubcaps.

http://www.wheelvintiques.com/index.php/smoothie-bare-finish.html

http://www.dexstarwheel.com/products.pdf

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I've asked these guys to put the centers from my split rim GMC wheels into newer hoops, they said it wouldn't be a problem.


http://www.rallyamerica.com/


My, what a steep learning curve. Erik II#5155

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