Inliners International Forums General Discussion Engines High Compression is a wonderful thing

Hello All,
High Compression is a wonderful thing until you try to adjust the valves on a newly rebuilt motor. We have tried and tried to turn this thing by hand at the harmonic balancer with little or no luck. Whats the trick or the proper tool to use to rotate the engine in order to initially adjust the valve lash?
Thanks,
Fabian.

Purchase(or make) an inexpensive harmonic balancer bolt on plate adapter that accepts a socket or the square drive end of an 18" breaker bar.
Remove the plugs and the crank should turn more easily.

F;

Yes; With the plugs out, just follow the instructions in the Motors Manual.

Or start @ TDC #1 & follow the firing order adding .002 for heating and seating.

Good luck.

Thanks guys.
I do have the plugs out and can barely get movement out of it.
I had considered buying a chevy small block crank socket from Summit or Jegs but was not sure if it would fit a 235. I also looked at the glorified rubber band grab tools at the local Sears store but the rubber band did not look fat enough to grab on to the balancer.
Fabian

If you're having that much trouble turning it over, especially with the plugs out, it's not the compression thats making it tight. Using a rope seal for the rear main seal can cause this, having the bolt that holds the oil pump in place over tightened can cause it, bent crankshaft, improper bearing and piston toerances...
If it turns over with a breaker bar with about 50Ft/lbs or less, you should be fine.

As for setting the lash on solid lifters, did you have the tips of the rockers surfaced? If not, and you use a wide feeler gage, you're not going to be taking into account the divit on the tip of the rocker, and you will actually be running too loose. In my opinion, this is a major reason why people complain about solid lifters being too noisy. It's been my experience that surfacing the tips can reduce noise by around 80%...

Small block and 235/261 crank snouts are the same diameter. Having the end of the crank drilled and tapped is a good idea, so you don't have to hammer the damper back on. Its especially helpful when doing it "in car".

take a piece of steel, drill two holes to match the damper holes, weld a nut to the center, and use your breaker bar and proper socket...

Thanks Gearhead,
I do have a new Perfect Circle brand rocker arm assembly installed. so I should get a good lash reading. I agree with you on the lifter noise reduction. I was also meticulous about the torque on the pieces you mentioned. You know I read along the way somewhere about drilling and tapping the front of the crankshaft - just forgot to have the machine shop do it - dang it.
That would have been sweet.
Fabian

You can drill and tap the crank your self while its together. I did it on my 250. Just drill slow, use lots of oil, tap slow with a new sharp tap, backing it out each 1/4 to half turn to clear the chips. Go deep enough so the bolt won't bottom out. Use a small block retaining bolt. Joe

www.powerhouseproducts.com sells a Nice alum one for about 15. bucks. I have also seen Others that Bolt to the dampener You can also Use the flywheel tool as well.

F;

Bryan's right, somethings to tight somewhere.

Pull the distributor & see if that 'frees it up' any. If so, the oil pump bolt is it.

The "flywheel tool" should work to find out.

Good luck.

Did you put this motor together yourself?? If so did the crank spin free as you torqued the main caps down?.If not then the problem is right there.
Secondly If the Valves are to Tight to start with
you won't be able to trun the motor over either.
So before getting back into the lower end Lossen
all the rockers to see if it spins. If not go to
the bottom end and start with the Rod bolts and work your way to the Main caps.Each time try to roll the motor over.

Also another Note is this the stock crank to that
motor? If not you may?????? have a Line Bore issue.