To All: I recieved a question concerning the ARP stud kit's ability to accurately locate the main bearing caps. They do this quite nicely. The stud diameter is actually 9/16 of an inch. The end that threads into the block is necked (rolled) down to the 1/2 inch thread required. IMHO, this is an improvement over the stock system, because it puts the locating metal right at the parting line where the movement forces are the strongest. The stock bolts actually locate the caps quite some distance away.
For what it's worth: When I started the preliminary assembly on my engine, I wondered if I would have to align bore or hone the mains after I substituted the studs for the bolts. I did not, and here's the method I used to determine that. First, I measured the bearing clearence of each main with plasti-guage, one at a time, and recorded it.This is done without the rear main seal in place! All the bearing caps were then removed, and the bearings were re-lubricated with WD-40. I then torqued the main cap with the thrust bearing to spec., while moving the crankshaft back and forth to align the thrust faces of that bearing, and measured the torque to turn the crankshaft with an inch/pound torque wrench. In my case, 15 inch/pounds were required. Next, I torqued the no. 1 main cap, and measured the torque requirement again. Now it was 20 inch/pounds. Torquing the remaining main caps and measuring the torque required between each one showed no additional increase. Loosening all the caps and reversing the order of tightening showed the same results. I was satisfied! This trick was tought to me by an old time mechanic, who assembled several NHRA and APBA record holding engines! (Thanks, dad).
