I just went thru this drill with my 500 caddy / turbo400 rear eng. dragster;I bought the B&M kit and then hit some local tranny shops and collected all the stock weights I could find, and 3 govenor bodies to work with.look real close, there are 3 different top plates
(high,med and low) and they do not interchange, match the one in your trans. read the instructions... build the spares with the weight/spring combos from 1 to 3 steps different from the stock setup.(I started with the lightest weights and the strongest springs, and in 4 steps went to the heviest stock weights with light springs)Now, off to the strip...I started with short squirts (330 ft)only and watched the 1-2 shift RPM. (the 2-3 will be within 200 RPM of the 1-2) leave the vacuum modulator alone for now.(it works only for part throttle shifts anyway)you will see a big change in the RPM, and can then mix and match. put the shift point to the test with a full pass,It didn't help to mess with the outer weights,(I tried 3 different sets)but one inner weight and spring only was a winner for my setup. with some combo's the trans would shift 1-2 ok but not go to high gear.(bangin' the rev limiter just ain't fun in a 1250 lb car...)others would shift 1-3 skipping second. don't give up, the right combo is in there!that's why I built 4 complete govenors, I got so good at changin' them out, I was swappin'em in the stagin' lanes. (lol, my fingers still look like french fries) when you lose those little "C" clips that come in the kit,(and you will!)cut up some coat hanger wire about 2.250 " long and bend a short,sharp 90 deg, in one end. a slight bend in the other end will hold it in place and make it lots easier to change things. B&M will not sell those pins and clips separate (rat's)


INJECTION IS NICE... BUT I'D RATHER BE BLOWN!!!!!WHAT ARE THE ONLY TWO WAYS TO GET TO THE OTHER END... FIRST OR BROKE...