Inliners International Forums General Discussion Drive Train T5 swap in a '53 210

Hi Everyone,

I've been searching around looking for info on doing a T5 swap in my '53 210 but almost everything I've found is for trucks. I've got a '53 210 with a 235 out of '59, three on the tree, and closed driveline. My plan is to hop up the 235 and switch to an open driveline. I have a spare 235 and '80 camaro rear end but I'm looking for info on which T5 I need. Swap Meet season is starting up here and I'm anxious to make some sparks fly.

Based on the posts I've read, here are my questions.

1) What bellhousing do I need? If I understand correctly. I'm assuming since I have a torque tube, the current bellhousing won't work.

2) Shifter location? Does the Camaro shifter location interfere the same as it would in a truck?

3) Electical vs Mechanical speedo? Is this only a concern when running the "stock" gauges?

4) Hydralic vs Mechanical clutch? I'd like to convert to a dual master cylinder. I assume if I go firewall mounted than a hydralic clutch would be needed or at least easier. If if go with the "piggy back" design and keep the stock brake and clutch mount, does it matter?

Sorry for the long post, but I've tried to research this as much as I could and I have a lot of questions.

Hi Walt,

I guess I should've worded #4 different. I definetely want a dual master cylinder for safety like you mentioned. My concern was if I go with a firewall mounted brake cylinder, how does that affect the clutch pedal, etc. since they both pivot off the stock MC? I know I'd have to hang the brake pedal and assumed that I'd hang the clutch pedal as well, and that's why I thought it might be easier to run a hyd. clutch setup? I guess the flip side is, what's involved to get the clutch working with the stock pedals and using a "piggy backed" dual MC?

Thanks

I've heard of people using the stock under-floor mechanical clutch pivot and hanging a dual-master brake swingset on the firewall.

As long as you plan ahead so the pedals are spaced comfortably and don't need to pass through each other to function (duh...) it won't matter that one goes through the floor and one goes up to the firewall -- that is unless it matters to your sense of aesthetics.

I'd think the biggest worry would be having a big wide brake pedal that binds on the clutch pedal/arm.

Talles,

Walt is correct. There's not need to hang your brake assembly. It's unsightly and not the easiest thing to do.
Check with Zig's company. They provided me with a simple and straight forward method. I used a 7" power booster/dual master set-up that bolts on to your existing under floor unit. You have to gut your old system and they provide a long rod that actually goes thru your old master bracket and attaches to your existing pedal set-up without moving anything. A lot of thought went into this system to make it a true bolt on. Don't try to re-invent the wheel here, it's already been thought out by rodders. The master cylinder under the floor has enough space to check the level and add fluid without cutting a hole in the floor.


I also purchased their Mustang II Hub-to-Hub front IFS that included 11" discs, 2" dropped spindles that work really nice.

Good Luck and keep us informed on your project.

RapRap
1940 ChoppedChevyCoupe

Thanks for all replies!

RapRap,

I still haven't decided if I want/need to got with a power booster yet, but I'm starting to lean farther toward the piggy-back MC setup. I didn't realize there was anyone making a bolt-on MC and not have to cut a new hole or go with a remote fill. Do you have pictures of your setup?

Was there anything tricky about getting the clutch setup with your arrangement?