|
|
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 124
Contributor
|
OP
Contributor
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 124 |
What does it take to turn your regular brake system from stock to power brakes. I was looking into buying a brake booster. What do you need to make this brake booster work ona stock system with 4 wheel drum brakes.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,905
1000 Post Club
|
1000 Post Club
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,905 |
Jason, Log onto Master Power Brakes in NC. It's www.mpbrakes.com. They answer alot of these type questions on their site. Hope this helps.
Drew Mid-Atlantic Chapter
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 511
Major Contributor
|
Major Contributor
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 511 |
hello...well i think this is kinda simple...My street truck has power brakes with a brake booster-my drag truck was a street truck with a brake booster-all i did to change it to none power brakes was to remove booster and get a manual brake master cylinder...i would think doing the opposite-installing the brake booster and a power brake master cylinder- would do the trick....you will need a vaccum line off the carb also...
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,622 Likes: 25
1000 Post Club
|
1000 Post Club
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,622 Likes: 25 |
Lee is right a simple change But one thing to add to this In some cases You also have to change The rod off the Brake pedal. Or reajust the lenght of the rod. So you do not bottom the pedal out Or the master.Most Power Brake units come with everything You need Other then the Vacum line. I know master power sells these kits. Hope this helps }[oooooo]
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo]  Adding CFM adds boost  God doesn't like ugly.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 124
Contributor
|
OP
Contributor
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 124 |
I have a '64 Chevy C10 does anyone know which vehicle to take the booster and masyer cylinder off of. I have heard that alot of them will work but does anyone know what will work best?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,905
1000 Post Club
|
1000 Post Club
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,905 |
Jason you should be able to use the late '60's to early '70's(68-72) and without too much plumbing problem.There are later systems too,but might require more work to use. Buy all of the salvage yard system you can including booster,master cylinder and proportioning valve,but make sure you are buying for drums only system unless you are going to change to disc, then buy a disc setup. The master cylinder bore is different between the two systems,smaller on the drums, and it is important so you don't have too much pressure on the wheel cylinders.Make sure you have good vacuum for the booster to work,MPBrakes recommends 18 inches I think.And as Twisted6 said get an adjustable brake pedal rod.Good Luck.
Drew Mid-Atlantic Chapter
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 341
Contributor
|
Contributor
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 341 |
Jason, your truck has a single master cylinder, right? You'll end up maving to mess around with the firewall to mount the booster. My '67 has a dual master cylinder with the 2 or 4 (forgot) studs already coming out of the firewall. My '66 has a single master cylinder, and I don't remember it having the studs.
I thought about doing this swap, but I may just swap to disc brakes while I'm at it. You'll need the MC and booster, along with more brake lines, and more than likely an adjustable rod. Good luck. John
BTW- MP Brakes is maybe 2 minutes down the road from me. Cool stuff.
'68 C-10 - 250 with Edelbrock 600cfm 4 barrel, Offy intake, Hedman headers and true duals, HEI, MSD 6A box, relocated gas tank Soon to have: T-5 tranny
|
|
|
|
0 members (),
611
guests, and
56
robots. |
|
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
|