Inliners International Forums General Discussion Hi Performance Looking for pictures of 3x1 linkage

Greetings All,
Started to playing with a Offy 3x1 intake for my 250.

Pictures needed of your linkage setups.

Curious to know what the Offy kit looks like installed.

Would also like to see any progressive setups, and other custom home built sets. Opinions are a must on how they are working and how you feel about them to date.


John C.
Pensacola FL
1965 Chevelle 2dr wagon project.

Dear John:

Larry/twisted six would know about that.

Good luck, John M........

John C

If you haven't already seen my linkage Take a look at onmy website.check the 3x4 link and the Bell Cp link. Hope it helps
}[oooooo]

Thanks again Larry,
Can you tell me what the pieces are that connect the rod to the three pivoting arms for each carb?
Close up picture perhapse?
I was looking at the swivel eye bolts but have been concered as this is going on a daily driver. I am not to crazy about the clamps that pinch a rod for each carb but so far, thats all I have ever seen.
Just looking for options.

John C.

they are called hime joints If i spelled that right. I use 1/4 bolts with Lock nuts so no backing off the pivit ball of the hime joint.
If you want to Email me I can send You a bigger picture of the rods. hope this helps}[oooooo]

Stumbled across this when I was looking for hime (hyme also hits big) joints.
http://www.nwspeedequipment.com/

http://www.jackschoenrock.com/pages/tri-power2.html

Some nice progressive linkage sets. Waiting for answers back for application to the Offy 3x1.

And last, a nice page on the operation of the progressive carb setup
http://members.aol.com/YBLOCK/progressive.htm

John C.

I made up a progressive linkage for my Offenhauser 3X1 on a 235 last summer....it darn near made me crazy but it works good, and when I get some of the brackets trimmed down it will look good too.

This set-up is for carbs mounted side-ways (throttle shaft parrallel to the engine centerline), rather than 90 degrees like a V-thing. The whole set-up cost me lass than $100 in parts, but a whole lot of sweat.

I've got pictures, but don't have a website to post from - if you're interested I'd be glad to e-mail them to you.

http://www.imageshack.us/

Free picture hosting. Good stuff.

Greg,
Send them please. I could post them on my service if you would like. Perhapse a place could be found to show a inliners linkage page.

John C.

No, no. I don't have any pictures to post. I was presenting the link for others to use because it allows for free image posting. Not sure how long they remain active but I use them when posting in message boards.

Appologies Greg,
I became over excited when I saw the post by Ducky. In typing the reply I was jumping up and down and just stopped using all higher brain functions.

Ducky, If you would like I will gladly display the pictures if you send them. At the least, it would be great to see them.

John C.

Roger that, give me a day or two.

Bump,
Still looking for pictures of a 3x1 progressive linkage.
If wanted, can host and post them if you email them to me.
Any givers?

Hi John . . .

Have you checked out Vintage Speed?

They have all kinds of different linkages to choose from including this progressive setup for Rochesters:
[img]http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~showpic~0000106a~99494~~~[/img]

and they also stock the generic Offy one:
[img]http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~showpic~0000106a~99431~~~[/img]

regards,
stock49

Thanks!
Checked the vitage speed site. Was not really sure what I was looking for. Pictures are worth a thousand text web pages. The top image came off of http://www.parts123es.com. Was there an add for this?

John C.

Scratch that found it by looking up CL-3b.
Bit pricey, but do-able.
Thanks again.

You can spend your time or spend a little bread. I am going to source through Charlie for my carbs, linkage and air cleaners for a dual stromberg setup on my 216. He's got some sweet Edmunds air cleaners that look old school but have a modern filter element inside them.

BTW parts123 is a generic catalog engine on the web that drives the online stores for vintage speed, obsolete chevy, chevsofthe40s among others . . .

Hey all,
As a quick note.
Most of the parts appear to be similar for what I use on pneumatic HVAC controls and louvered air damper walls. Several local parts houses stock this stuff so better prices might be as far as your local HVAC comercial supplier. Updates to follow later.

Those linkages pictured in the posting by stock49 look like they're for 3x2 setups on a V8.
Don't most sixes have the carb arms pulling towards the fender or valve cover?
I assumed I'd use this style linkage as in the kit sold by Tom Langdon:
http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/product.asp?productid=100
I know little about this so I'd like to clear this up in my mind before I sell the stinkn' intake to save the aggravation!

Guys, I've done the 'sideways' progessive linkage for the 216/235 3X1, it works nice; I just don't have a method to post the pictures. I guess I should figure out how to use one of the remote posting services as mentioned above.

Contact me direct, I'll send you the pictures I have, and if you are patient, I'll even take better ones since the mainifold and carbs are off the engine.

It's not that hard to make (I did it!) and the few specialized parts won't cost more than $50 - the most expensive piece I bought was a legnth of 9/32 stainless steel rod.

I have progressive 3x1 on my truck. See the Rides section for pictures. I originally tried to use that "CL-3B" linkage shown, which is intended for flathead Ford V8's, but I found it would be harder to make that work than making my own. Making adapter plates to turn the carbs 90 deg. is necessary. The rod ends, stainless steel bar stock, LH dies, etc.. can all be ordered from McMaster-Carr. The real trick to actually making it run correctly is to remove the power valve circuit from the end carbs and get the throttle plate to seal up enough to prevent surging at an idle. I didn't have good results trying to run them in stock form. Running Carter W-1's would probably be a better choice than the Rochesters because the power curcuit on the Carters is not operated by vaccuum.
The main drawback I have right now with it is that I can't really hit all three carbs until I have about 1800 rpms or so. It's like the old 348 Chevies and Olds J2's with the vaccuum operated end carbs. That was so you had enough demand to be able to use all that cfm. Too much at the bottom end and it will fall all over itself. At least that's the results I've seen.

Gearhead,
Are you using the Rochester mono jet carbs?
I was thinking of removing the idle screws on the secondarys but did not give any though to the power valve.

Rochester model B manual choke carbs from the mid 50's.
When you plug off the idle circuit, you will also need to make the throttle plate close completely, otherwise you will be pulling air in without any fuel mixed with it and you will get a lean condition and probable surging.
If you study a genuine set of tripower 2 bbl carbs, you will see there is no power valve or idle cicuit in them. I used this info and applied it to the "B" carbs, as they are basically the same design as the 2GC 2bbl. The problem with a vaccuum operated power valve is that when you add more carbs, you change the vac signal that the power valve sees. Nobody offers lighter springs for these carbs, so you have no way to adjust for a change in vac signal. A larger cam can also add to this problem. Luckily, by removing the spring, valve, and the spring loaded ball above the jet, you no longer need to worry about it! Basically you end up with the secondaries of a 4 bbl carb. It's my understanding that by using a carb like the Carter W-1 or WA-1, you should be able to leave the carbs alone and just hook up the linkage as needed, but I haven't tried this way yet.

I just sent Johnyc my pictures to post.

Gearhead - I'm using Rochester 'B's with the end carbs plates 'bottomed-out'. I adjusted the idle mix screw on the center carb with the ends closed off, then cracked open the end idle mixes. There is almost zero air flow through the end carbs at adle - tested by holding my hand over the air horn and no change (or very little) change in idle speed. I do have a very minimal 'stumble' if I punch it below 1200 or so but I figured that was a function of the cam.

As for the 348 tri-power Chev's - brings back fond memories of my '58 convertible.....

Here's Ducky's linkage:

That looks simple and effective. You may want to consider adding a return spring to the end carbs just in case something sticks or comes loose.

They are there, sort of a 'jury-rig'; a small coil spring secured from the air horn cover screw down to the throttle linkage bellcrank. If you look closely you can just see the straight section going up and under the rear screw on the front carb on the side view. The coil is between the gas line and the vacuum line to the center carb, but since it is closed, you can't see the coils.

With all the discussions on carb/manifold heat, note that I've run brakeline/gasline tubing with brass compression fittings for my water heat to the mainfold. I intend to eliminate the connection you see under the carbs and make the tubes all one piece - what you see was my first attempt and my tube-bending skills are improving.

The engine you see is the 216, which is now being removed from the car to be replaced with the 235. I intend to clean up the engine compartment while the 216 is out. Waiting for warmer weather as the heat in the garage is minimal.

hmmm more good info. recently picked up a 3x1 offy myself, figure if i get my 2x1 working properly, i'll experiment with the 3x1. Gathering roch. "B"'s for it, are the B's all the same? ie, jets, passage sizes, throttle bores? Learned that there are 100's of different carter W1's the hard way, tried running 2 different ones one a 2x1 intake...
I have not pulled my B's apart yet, but there is a powervalve in them? what's the best way to close it off?

Thanks,
Jeff

Also interested in the power valve removal.
Is this the way to go?

If you want some good technical info about how both the model B and the factory tripower setups work, then try looking at a 58-61 factory car shop manual. I used a '61.

Yes, there are basically 3 different sizes of B's. The difference is in venturi and throttle bore diameters. I have listed them before in other posts. 216, 235 & 261 are all different.

For the inexperienced, I would suggest trying to make it work with the carbs intact, like Ducky did, you may get lucky and not need to modify them.
Otherwise...
Remove idle screw and plug hole, or perhaps just turn in in all the way.
Remove power valve and the spring loaded ball above the main jet.
Plug vac source at the base of carb.
Make the throttle plate close perfectly.