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Hi all, does any of you people live in the Tampa area? If so, & you have a 250 Chevy short block http://www.crank-scrapers.com will take a pattern from your engine & give you a free crankshaft scraper! I hope somebody lives near the Tampa area so we can purchase some scrapers! Thanks Hank
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Hank Who did you talk to there?? I'm not really that far from Tampa area.I could maybe Take them a block. }[oooooo]
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo]  Adding CFM adds boost  God doesn't like ugly.
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I e-mailed Kevin Johnson. I believe he would need a short block, (crank, rods, block).A turning assy. Maybe you can get one for me for a deal,since I got the ball rollen :-)? Let me know what you think. Thanks! Hank
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Here more info: Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scrapers http://www.crank-scrapers.com Land O' Lakes, Florida 727-808-8602
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Hank I do have their site Book marked. I also have their Number and Will give them a Yell before the weeks end And Let you know what they say & need for this.250 block ?? Not a 292 right?? I'm Just double Checking I see Your asking about the 250. }[oooooo]
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo]  Adding CFM adds boost  God doesn't like ugly.
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Yes I am needing a scraper for a 250. Thanks
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Hank I just spoke with the Crank scraper People. I will be giving them Enough Stuff to do the 230,250 An 292 Blocks It will be about a week to two weeks Before I can get to him all That He will need Because I have a Little digging to do For my 292& 230 stuff. These scrapers Will Be FOR Stock Cranks Not Knifed,Stock RODs. So Please Bare with me.But I am On top of this. And will have You coverd/scraped Persay LOL :)And will no dout add them to my Hp list of web site goodies. }[oooooo]
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo]  Adding CFM adds boost  God doesn't like ugly.
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Thanks Larry! You have seen the teflon scraper set up they fabricate? The teflon wears into the rods, crank, so it is real close to wipe/scrape off the most amount of oil. Cost more, but maybe ask them about making that setup also,looks more effective, just a thought. :-). Thanks for the leg work your doing! & time spent. Hank
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Hank Your Welcome and No Problem. I will try and Remember That Question and Yes it could be. }[oooooo]
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo]  Adding CFM adds boost  God doesn't like ugly.
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Het Twisted! Any word on the crank shaft scrapers? Just checking :-) Thanks Hank
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hopeig to chat with him again one day this week to see about getting with him Now That I have found all that he will need. for 230,250,292.Once the ball is rolling I'll let ya know. }[oooooo]
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo]  Adding CFM adds boost  God doesn't like ugly.
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Hank Just to give you a Up date as to what is going on. The Blocks and the 230 crank are at His shop at this time.
M#3220 }[oooooo]
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo]  Adding CFM adds boost  God doesn't like ugly.
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Sounds good, He has a 230 crank right now? That does not seem to be very popular to build? I never heard of anyone building a hopped up 230? Has anyone else?
Hank
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Hank we have guys running the 194 at the drags in the stock classes But I don't have a 194 crank any more or i would have gave him that as well.so he has at this time the 230,250,292
M# 3220 }[oooooo]
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo]  Adding CFM adds boost  God doesn't like ugly.
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Thanks Twisted for the update! Are you running a 250? I forgot. What has your car run the best in the 1/4 mile?
Hank
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it was runnig Low 14s In 3rd gear on a 17yr old motor. The spent Most it's days as a daily driver. Then I got into doing the Nostalgia Drags with the Inliners Then I started to add & change rear gears. By then The Motor was showing some age
M# 3220 }[oooooo]
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Hi, Sorry for taking so long -- I have been very busy. Here is some info on the scrapers and windage trays... Chevy straight six (230, 250, 292) crank scrapers (in Teflon if desired) and an option for a full length windage tray. The tray is mounted to oil pan rail plates -- one is a modified crank scraper, of course. There are oil ejection ports underneath like on the factory Mopar slant six tray but these ports also have bevel edged inward facing louvers. The side rail has oil vents to allow oil draining down the side of the block to reach the pan and the tray has an angled strip of metal lying beneath this area. The strip serves two purposes -- one to guide the draining oil to the pan and another to act as a deflector to oil splashing laterally in the pan. At the rear of the tray there is a panel of thin Teflon that can be fitted tightly to the rear of the pan (it will flex upwards to improve the seal as well when the pan is installed). This is an oil surge baffle that prevents the oil from climbing the rear under acceleration. There is a movable block-off plate so that the tray can be used with oil pickup tube support struts that bolt to either the second or third main cap from the rear. Many thanks to local Chevy drag racer Larry Page for lending me the blocks to construct the patterns!  Kind regards, Kevin Johnson Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scrapers
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Your Welcome Kevin These photos are without the teflon on the scrapers? any of the Vthing scrapers Ihave ever seen all had the teflon. Is that Not realy needed? #3220 }[oooooo]
Larry/Twisted6 [oooooo]  Adding CFM adds boost  God doesn't like ugly.
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Looks very nice! Are they available? How much are they Larry? Thanks Hank
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Hi Larry, You might be thinking about a thin Teflon coating on the metal to help it shed oil (?). You can buy that type of Teflon coating from a number of places if you want to apply it yourself or have it sent out to a coatings shop. Not a bad idea. The Teflon scrapers we make use a solid sheet of Teflon held in place by clamps. That is something new (hence our Patent Pending) and allows the scraper to safely come into actual contact with the rotating assembly. After it beds in you have a scraper that runs with about .001" clearance. Kevin Originally posted by Twisted6: Your Welcome Kevin These photos are without the teflon on the scrapers? any of the Vthing scrapers Ihave ever seen all had the teflon. Is that Not realy needed? #3220 }[oooooo]
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The steel ones run $49.95 delivered in the USA (+ $10 for international shipping). The Teflon scrapers run $149.95 with the same delivery terms. The steel scraper and windage tray combo runs $149.95 with the same delivery terms -- add $100 for Teflon to be included with it. Kevin Originally posted by Hank: Looks very nice! Are they available? How much are they Larry? Thanks Hank
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Kevin J
I must say Nice piece of work and Thank you for taking the time. I will also be taking more photos of the scraper with and without the teflon.
So yes Hank and anyone else interested in these They are Now ready.
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I received my crankshaft scraper from http://www.crank-scrapers.com. Looks very nice! I can see there is a lot of work involved in making them. Twisted6 I.I , have you tried to install yours yet? Kevin seems like a nice honest guy to deal with. I would recommend getting one for anyone trying to get the most HP out of there engine. So try them out give them an email or call them.@ http://www.crank-scrapers.com Think about it, most all HP V-8's have them, & the Mopar HP six had scrappers stock. These scrapers are much more detailed work than just a piece of sheet metal w/a couple of bends.
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Rick!!
It works with large aluminum rods and high volume oil pump and oil pick up???
This looks like a real cool thing. I would like to take one of those to my engine!!
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No I haven't Hank for that matter I'm picking my motor up tomarrow. Did you get the full scraper with the teflon? or with out? When I start taking the new motor pics for my web site I'll get the scraper photos up at the same time.
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Douglas they only make them for standard style rods. They would have to have your rods to make it work for you. I purchased one full length w/the teflon.... but I looks like I will not be able to use it as I am going to install a main cap girdle. It is really a shame too! I was looking forward to using it , but I would like to have a stronger bottom end first.
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That will be great, Larry!!!
Hank... Do you have any notice about any manufacturer of a main cap girdle for the 250???
I´m trying to make one that goes over the main caps, and around all block extension (a unique peace, laser cutted and CNC Machined). Here in my town, the Machining Industries are very strong, and it´s easy for me to do this, but de costs will be high, because I will need a full peace of a goof material (like some 4340 forged steel, or a good league of aluminum). And that is really expensive here in Brazil....
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Hank I could see the windage tray maybe being in the way But the scrapper itself should still work.
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Larry:
Do you know some Windage Tray for 250 Cid??
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Douglas The crank scrapers have the windage trays built with them but can be removed.
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Douglas, Mike K can get the girdles for I believe $325.00? Maybe you can work a deal? Or if you know machinists ..they can measure your main cap spacing & CNC it with a milling machine? Larry, I see your point... I think I can still use the scraper! Brain fart.. I was thinking my windage tray & scraper are one unit. I really have not done too much w/it or looked @ it much. I just saw this big heavy chunk of steel(main cap girdle) for the main caps & was thinking this thing is going to take up a lot of space. My short block is still a long ways away. :-(
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Silly question. Does the windage tray require two sets of pan gaskets to be used?
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The crankshaft scraper/windage tray needs two gaskets?
Hank
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No not realy The scraper is the same thickness of the stock gasket. So i was told all that should need to be done is Use RTV.Other Wise The End two gaskets Will not work for sure. Your not about to double up on the timing cover gasket OR the rear Pan gasket.
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So ,you do not use any pan rail gaskets? Only RTV on both sides of the windage/scraper tray? I have not looked @ the instructions yet, sorry.
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That is what he Told me when The stuff(motors) were brought back to me. You may want to check with them. But If you double up on the gaskets You'll never get the timing cover or the back of the pan to seal.
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Originally posted by Hank: So ,you do not use any pan rail gaskets? Only RTV on both sides of the windage/scraper tray? I have not looked @ the instructions yet, sorry. Definitely only use RTV between the scraper and block. The clearances need to be stable. You should use RTV between the pan and scraper as well. Trim the end seals as closely as possible to butt up against the scraper and spacer ends and then use RTV to fill the gaps. There is a pictorial on our website homepage of an installation on an AMC 360 that illustrates the procedure. The AMC scraper shown there (old design now) is made from 12 gauge -- they (and yours) are now made from thinner but stronger steel so sealing at the end seals is not a big issue. Yes, Larry is correct that you can simply unbolt the windage tray assembly from the scraper and spacer.
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Thanks for the clarification Kevin!
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Kevin Johnson: [QB] The steel ones run $49.95 delivered in the USA (+ $10 for international shipping). The Teflon scrapers run $149.95 with the same delivery terms. The steel scraper and windage tray combo runs $149.95 with the same delivery terms -- add $100 for Teflon to be included with it.
Kevin
Wow looking at the site, what a price increase! Scraper with windage tray $299.00 with teflon add $100.00 Whats up with doubling the price? I might of thought about it for $250.00 for everything, but no way in **** its worth $400.00, at least to me to use on the street.
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