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Joined: Jul 2002
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Hi I am in need of some more help. I am having trouble with my truck starting. It has a new wire harness, new starter switch. What seems to be when I press on foot starter it seems to short at the starter motor. I have put a light tester to all the hot spots that should be hot, starter, ignition switch,amp meter etc. and they are hot. once I step on starter there is no current going through the wire harness. It was starting fine, without problems before. Two things that were happening are I had a generator in it and I was not getting a charge. I changed to a alternator that is when I noticed I had the two wires switched at the ampmeter, I changed them and when it started with the alt. it started right up and ran fine, and was showing needle movement to the letter C not to the letter D. The other thing I did was I changed the ignition switch and is wired correctly. Starter would not engage with the flywheel and start every time, it would make a sound like it was spinning for a moment then stop. It would do this a couple times then start right up. I went through starter , before having the problem of not starting. After writing this question could it be the starter itself? or what could be causing this problem? Any suggestions or ideas would really help. My truck is still in need of work, but it is 99 percent ready to be at least driven and I will drive it daily. Thanks for any help you may be able to suggest. Steve
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,332
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I would check the Bendix drive first if It's not engaging (mechanically). Look at the linkage for wear & to see if It's pushing the fork all the way back also. Good luck. 
John M., I.I. #3370
"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 504
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Major Contributor
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Hi, Might check something as simple as ground. The earlier GMC's were positive ground
Tom I.I. #1475
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Joined: Jul 2002
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I will check the ground, but it has been changed to a 56 235 motor with a 3 speed overdrive. In regards to Johns response if the fork is pushed all the way in shoulden't there still be current from the starter to the ampmeter,switch then current will get to the coil and then eventually to the spark plugs? Is it possible if it does not go all the way in that current could be cut off at that point? Thanks Steve
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Joined: Dec 2000
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Dear Steve; Yes; If the ground wasn't solid. Make sure the battery is grounded to the engine and not the body. Then, you can (ground) the body to the engine/frame etc. A 'high current flow' item (the starter) must have a clear path to the battery. Some early models (6V) had the battery connected to the frame and a strap from there to the engine. Make sure both are there is all. Good luck. 
John M., I.I. #3370
"There are no shortcuts to any place worth going". -Anon
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 129
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Thanks John
I am going on vacation, spring break for the kids. I will check the ground and the bendix drive when I get back. I will post what I find to be the solution. Thanks Steve
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Joined: Nov 2002
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The forums at www.oldgmctrucks.com are always a good source of information for GMC troubleshooting.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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Hi I wanted to give an update. I checked all the connections and charged the battery. the starter was still having troubles, I pulled it out and still unsure why it gave me troubles. I hooked up the battery cables to it and it spun like a new starter. I don't have another truck starter, but I do have a 6 volt with solinoid and went through it, put it in and it fires the truck real nice. I will have to put a different ign. switch or put a push button switch. I like the 6 volt starters in the 12 volt systems. It seems to have been my starter that may have been causing the problems. I have another question, but will post it as another question. Thanks for all the help and suggestions
Steve
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Joined: Mar 2004
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If the 6V starter works "real nice" you had a 6V starter and flywheel to start with. A 6V starter has larger engaging teeth than a 12V. It won't work "real nice" on a 12V flywheel.
Charlie Hardin II #5039
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