Frump,
The reason I asked about the mounting of the master and pedals is that the master cylinder housing has a pair of ears on the front of it that the shaft for the brake and I think clutch pedals run through. If you try to replace the stocker, you will need to find a way to re-mount the pedals or replace everything. there are several ways to do this, but first I would ask if you are going to use an automatic or keep the stick?
As for re-sleaving, there are several places that do this, some use stainless steel and some use brass. the brass is about half the cost. Look in Hemmings Motor News under the services section.
The cheap and dirty way would be to pull the guts out of the old master and cut open the rear and mount your new master behind the old one and run a longer pushrod right thru the old master. Make sure the rod doesn't bind on anything.
Another way would be to fabricate a replacement bracket for the stock master and mount your new master in basically the stock location.
If you go with an automatic, The aftermarket pedal assemblies work good. I am not aware of an aftermarket assembly for manual tranny, but there might be something out there, or possibly adapting an assembly form another make/year could be made to work.
There is also the option of a remote fill reservoir setup that Master Power Brakes sells, if you don't want to fill it by going through the floor.
You could also convert it to swing pedals with the master mounted on the firewall, but it would likely end up costing you more in time and money, also in my opinion it looks like crap.
Get a copy of MP Brakes catalog
www.mpbrakes.com They have alot of info on how to set up the system and what parts to use in which combination. Disc/drum and all drum setups require different sizes of masters and the metering/proportioning setups are different. If you intend to go with discs up front, go with that the first time around or you will need to monkey with the other parts also (why do it twice?). I look at what the discs are coming from and use a master with a bore the same size as the donor car, same for the proportioning/metering valve. Once you think you have figured out what you want to run, talk to a tech rep at some of these places and see if they agree.
No reason you cant run power assist with either set of brakes. It's only more money. The bore of a powered master is usually larger than non-powered also.
Good luck.
