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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 33
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OP
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Ok car running great..small oil leak. The engine being rebuilt close to three years ago, sat without oil it. Now the rear seal, though it was replaced..leaks bad!!! I know the bottom wick isn't much to change, but the top one, that can't be easy. I have heard of a tool called a sneaky pete anyone used one before. What are my options??
Bill 53 Chevy Belair 235 Stock (For now!)
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 316
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 316 |
I have removed the old rope upper seal with good results using a piece of 1/8 inch brass rod to drive the old seal out.Once you get the old seal out,replace it with a FEL-PRO two piece rubber seal.Off set the ends of the seal so they don't line up with the main cap/block mating surface.Refer to a factory shop manual for information to reassemble if needed. EvilDr235
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 33
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Does the crank have to come out for the top?
Bill 53 Chevy Belair 235 Stock (For now!)
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 316
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The top half of the seal?---No, the upper seal will slide in pretty easy compared to the rope seal.Follow instructions on package.Pretty easy to do.You do not have to drop the crankshaft. EvilDr235
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,613
1000 Post Club
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1000 Post Club
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Posts: 1,613 |
Good luck. Most of these leak regardless of what type of seal you use. I've used the rubber replacements on 4 engines so far, and they all leaked to some degree. They were all 56-62 type engines. Not sure if they make a rubber type for the 54-earlier or not. I haven't checked. There was a article in the 12 Port News a few months back about using a one piece seal. Would require grinding a couple of "flats" on the crank flange to allow the seal to pass over the crank flange.
I.I. #3174
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Anonymous
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Do you know any one that works around steam or a shipyard? Get a packing puller looks kinda like a corkscrew with a flexable t handle .I know NAPA has a replacment for the rope seal
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